Limited adjustability w/ front camber kit
#1
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Limited adjustability w/ front camber kit
Im wanting to lower my car a little bit more, but my Skunk2 front A arm is at its limit as far as being adjusted as close to 0 camber with being lowered. Do I have the right camber adjuster to be lowered as much as I want? The right coilover sleeves? Shock absorbers? The rear adjusters I have installed are good to be lowered more to keep the camber as close to 0 as possible. Its the front Im frustrated with...
Setup: Suspension
-KYB AGX's
-Skunk2 coilover sleeves
-Skunk2 front camber kit (upper A arm)
-generic rear camber kit (not shim kit)
-new tie rod ends (inner, outter - both sides)
-just got an alignment last week
-large rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced (soon)
Id appreciate the feedback yall!
Setup: Suspension
-KYB AGX's
-Skunk2 coilover sleeves
-Skunk2 front camber kit (upper A arm)
-generic rear camber kit (not shim kit)
-new tie rod ends (inner, outter - both sides)
-just got an alignment last week
-large rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced (soon)
Id appreciate the feedback yall!
#2
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pics
Here are some quick shots I took yesterday.
NOTE: The height its at now, is with the front camber adjusted all the way to the edge, and its very close to 0 camber. The rear camber kit still has a lot more adjustability.
What needs to be done or replaced so that I can have the right amount of ajustability for the front camber? I know people that have been lowered way more than I have, and have had the adjustability to still get the front camber very close to 0. (with the same Skunk2 kit)
HELP!
NOTE: The height its at now, is with the front camber adjusted all the way to the edge, and its very close to 0 camber. The rear camber kit still has a lot more adjustability.
What needs to be done or replaced so that I can have the right amount of ajustability for the front camber? I know people that have been lowered way more than I have, and have had the adjustability to still get the front camber very close to 0. (with the same Skunk2 kit)
HELP!
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Also going with 0 toe kills the outer shoulders of the tires. Cause now when you corner you corner ONTO the shoulder which sucks.
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#5
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Ok, so if I decide to lower the car more (more than likely will), then its ok to have some negative camber (1.0-1.5)?
Obviously there will be some wear on my tires, (inner) but what kind of time frame am I looking at? Its my daily driver, only driving about 30-45 minutes total a day. I guess it doesnt pertain to the wheels I have on now, because I am switching to winter tires and steelies here soon. Big switch from 17'' to 13'' or 14''.
Getting some good info that I never knew before, so keep it comin! THanks.
Obviously there will be some wear on my tires, (inner) but what kind of time frame am I looking at? Its my daily driver, only driving about 30-45 minutes total a day. I guess it doesnt pertain to the wheels I have on now, because I am switching to winter tires and steelies here soon. Big switch from 17'' to 13'' or 14''.
Getting some good info that I never knew before, so keep it comin! THanks.
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If you are getting wear on your tires with 0 to -1.0 camber then you have serious toe (in/out) problems. I ran all my cars with -2.5 to -3.0 front camber and -1.5 to -2.5 for years with minimal tire wear for 5-6 years. My Azenis would last 1 1/2 years before I sold them with 3-4mm of tread left. That's about 30-40 autocrosses a year.
I ran 0 toe front and back. Toe wears tires quicker than camber. Since with toe you are scrubbing the tires constantly whereas camber you are just rolling on the tires (no real friction).
I ran 0 toe front and back. Toe wears tires quicker than camber. Since with toe you are scrubbing the tires constantly whereas camber you are just rolling on the tires (no real friction).
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Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO!
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Sponsored by: KAM Racing Sports, Falken Tires, Progress Technology, Brady's High Performance, Taggart Performance Engineering, Rotora Brakes
Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO!
Autocross Help Page