Notices

Dashboard won't light up

Thread Tools
 
Old 06-14-2006, 09:33 AM
  #1  
deboda954
Naturally Aspirated
Thread Starter
 
deboda954's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Dashboard won't light up

I know what I did wrong already but I don't know how to fix it. I used to have a radar detector hardwired to my battery but when the detector fell off my windshield enough times to break, I decided to remove the wiring. This is where I went wrong. I think I may have created a short circuit because now whenever I turn my lights on, my dashboard won't light up. The fuse was blown and I replaced it only to have it blown within half a second of turning the lights on. I went ahead and wasted yet another fuse with the same result. Any ideas? I was told by one person that I may not have grounded something all the way.
Old 06-14-2006, 10:27 AM
  #2  
dubcac
I
 
dubcac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Westside til I die
Posts: 56,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Go through all your wiring.
Old 06-15-2006, 07:20 AM
  #3  
deboda954
Naturally Aspirated
Thread Starter
 
deboda954's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

bump

im no good at electrical systems in cars, if anyone has any idea what it could be please help! i originally had the power wire connected to the fuse box and i grounded it onto a bolt nearby. then when i took it off my, dash wouldnt light up but everything else works just fine. i was told i created a short circuit somewhere or that i may not have grounded something when i removed the hard wiring kit. any help is appreciated, even if u know of a website i could go to for help. thanks a lot all!
Old 06-16-2006, 01:24 AM
  #4  
96BLKGSR
Member
 
96BLKGSR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

did you ground the detector where something else was grounded? If the fuse keeps blowing then that means you have a short somewhere and you'll have to go through your wiring like dubcac said. Either something that's suppose to be grounded, is no longer grounded, or some wire that's not suppose to be grounded is making contact with metal. How exactly did you wire this detector, because in your first post you said it was wired to the battery, but in your second post you said it was wired to the fuse box.
Old 06-16-2006, 05:44 AM
  #5  
deboda954
Naturally Aspirated
Thread Starter
 
deboda954's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yea, my fault about the first post, it was actually hardwired to the fuse box next to the battery. When you open the box, there are two connections at the lowest point (closest to the front of the car) that are held down by screws. I loosened the bottom of the two, and connected the power cord from the detector there, then tightened it. I then placed the grounding cable about 6 inches away on a screw that was just attached to the frame of the car. The connection worked fine and nothing went wrong... until I took it out. When I was unscrewing the power cord from the fuse box connection, I created a spark with the screwdriver and ever since, I have had this problem. I should have posted more detail before, but that is the most info I can give you. I should have disconnected my battery first, but as for fixing it... I just don't know here's my attempt at a diagram:

[FUSE BOX]||||[BATTERY]
|(+)___|=======^to battery
|(+)___|=power source for detector
...^--------v-------------------------to radar detector
..v---------^
(+)
where i grounded it (on frame of car)

**note: the +'s are NOT representing positive, they simply show where the screws are

Last edited by deboda954; 06-16-2006 at 05:49 AM.
Old 06-16-2006, 09:35 AM
  #6  
Shooting411's
aka Gorilla Unit 33
 
Shooting411's's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Outside South West Philly
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

normally when that fuse blows (the interior one) it causes your rear running lights at work to stop working, or atleast it did to my car. im going through the same problem for the last two weeks after ripping apart my interior 3 or four times ive decided to turn it over into the hands of professionals. im so fed up with electrical problems i hate that shit. anyway good luck tryin to find the short i dunno even what caused mine. it just started to happen one day. so im waiting on a call back from the diagnostics place now hopefully i can get this done with the car back in a couple days. ill let you know on what they say it is for you to check it out on your car also
Old 06-16-2006, 09:42 AM
  #7  
deboda954
Naturally Aspirated
Thread Starter
 
deboda954's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Shooting411's
normally when that fuse blows (the interior one) it causes your rear running lights at work to stop working, or atleast it did to my car. im going through the same problem for the last two weeks after ripping apart my interior 3 or four times ive decided to turn it over into the hands of professionals. im so fed up with electrical problems i hate that shit. anyway good luck tryin to find the short i dunno even what caused mine. it just started to happen one day. so im waiting on a call back from the diagnostics place now hopefully i can get this done with the car back in a couple days. ill let you know on what they say it is for you to check it out on your car also
You know someone told me that same thing on honda-tech. But my rear lights work just fine. I was also told by a friend of mine that he had the same problem in his civic, and all he did was wait a week or two, replace the fuse again and it stopped doing it. Maybe I'll try that :dunno:




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:23 PM.