90 Accord not starting---new clutch?
06-01-2006, 09:25 AM
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90 Accord not starting---new clutch?
I just got this car and the last week i've had to dbl clutch it to go into first..I knew the cluthc was going out but I want to make sure that is what's wrong with it. Now it will not start. I put the clutch all the way to the floor and nothing will not turn over not the battery . I am assuming it's the clutch am i correct in doing so..also do you have to drop the tranny to do it...anyone looking for side work in Jacksonville,Fl
06-02-2006, 07:00 AM
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yes the lights and everything works..it like if you just got in and put the key in to start it with out putting th clutch in ....so that is why i am assuming it's the clutch...becasue it dosen't do anything different when i push the clutch in.....
Thankyou for answering me
Thankyou for answering me
06-02-2006, 11:22 AM
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have not tried to pop the clutch i have never done it i have only heard of people and seen it but you put it in second and then release the car when it gets alitle speed from being pushed? now if it starts this way does that mean it is the clutch?
06-02-2006, 11:58 AM
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if poping the clutch works to start the car, it may mean that you need a new starter. some people had the same problem but required an alternator. my car wouldn't start up a few years back...eventually the mechanic figured out that the wireing for the remote lock and the wiring that went with my clutch got crossed. therefore when i pushed the clutch down, the computer(or whatever) didn't register that it was pushed...long story short...
if you have a remote alarm/lock consider the crossing of wires or starter/alternator to be a few potential reasons for your troubles
hope this helped,
andrew
if you have a remote alarm/lock consider the crossing of wires or starter/alternator to be a few potential reasons for your troubles
hope this helped,
andrew
06-03-2006, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by everitte
so question if the car starts this way it's not the clutch??? I ma going to go try popping the clutch and check that out...ty
06-05-2006, 08:30 PM
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It is NOT a "clutch problem" (though it may be related to some clutch problem). That "hold the clutch down to start" thing is strictly for Safety: if you ever started a car In-Gear and started driving away before you were ready, you'd know why they added that trick around 1975. (It really befuddled me the first time I ran into it: nice Camaro, started fine for the previous owner, wouldn't rrrrrt for me....)
Automatics have an "N" switch: starter can't get power unless you are in "N" (or "P") because they drive-away so easy. I'm not sure clashboxes need a safety switch, but they get one anyway. For some reason, they put it on the clutch instead of sensing "N" on the gearshift; probably a penny cheaper that way.
Get a thin-legged friend to sit and push the clutch pedal. Get a small flashlight and get your head way under the dash, where you can see the top of the clutch pedal lever. There are one or two switches that the pedal lever must hit. The "up" switch breaks the cruise control when you declutch, ignore it. The "down" switch is the one that enables the starter when you are fully down. See if it is really getting hit (and hasn't been hit so hard it broke). Try holding the plunger in with a ruler while friend turns key to Start (be SURE you are in Neutral with parking brake HARD on).
IIRC, it has a threaded nose. You loosen a locknut and turn it in or out so that it just "enables" as the clutch pedal bottoms. So the manual says: I think it takes a very small child to get up in there far enough to turn anything.
On a '02 Honda: pull the connector off the switch. Short the terminals in the wire. Now the starter should run without pushing the clutch pedal, just like a 1942 Plymouth. We never needed no stinking safety switch back in the day. But today, somebody will expect the interlock and start the car in gear by mistake, so if faking-out the switch makes the system work, get a new switch and adjust it correctly.
If shorting the safety switch doesn't do it: find someone who knows how to connect a "remote starter switch", a pushbutton that bypasses ALL safety frills and just makes the starter spin. Or someone who knows how to hot-wire THIS model car. Don't guess: Ford is opposite to Chevy and I dunno how to jumpstart a Honda. Do it wrong, and wires smoke. If the starter don't spin when hot-wired, find a starter expert. But starters rarely fail: it is usually wires and switches.
"Popping the clutch" is a way to start the engine without a starter motor. I got good at that in my '61 Willys. Park on a slope. Declutch. Release brake. Let it start rolling, 3 to 5MPH. Turn ignition on. Put it in 1st or 2nd gear, depending on the car, the slope, how warm the engine is. When rolling at what would be a slow-idle speed, let the clutch up. Car momentum will spin the engine. Trick is: let clutch up too fast, car bucks violently. Let clutch up very slow, engine turns too slow to ignite, and the car drags to a halt. There is a knack. Different for Willys or Accord (Honda needs over a hundred RPM, a warm Willys will catch on the second turn no matter how slow). And pop-starting is NOT relevant here, because you are diagnosing a no-go STARTER. Once you decide to live without a starter (I drove the Willys that way), you get good at pop-starting a car. Park on a hill, or carry two big friends to push you up to a couple of MPH. But much better to find why the starter isn't getting juice, or isn't drinking it.
Automatics have an "N" switch: starter can't get power unless you are in "N" (or "P") because they drive-away so easy. I'm not sure clashboxes need a safety switch, but they get one anyway. For some reason, they put it on the clutch instead of sensing "N" on the gearshift; probably a penny cheaper that way.
Get a thin-legged friend to sit and push the clutch pedal. Get a small flashlight and get your head way under the dash, where you can see the top of the clutch pedal lever. There are one or two switches that the pedal lever must hit. The "up" switch breaks the cruise control when you declutch, ignore it. The "down" switch is the one that enables the starter when you are fully down. See if it is really getting hit (and hasn't been hit so hard it broke). Try holding the plunger in with a ruler while friend turns key to Start (be SURE you are in Neutral with parking brake HARD on).
IIRC, it has a threaded nose. You loosen a locknut and turn it in or out so that it just "enables" as the clutch pedal bottoms. So the manual says: I think it takes a very small child to get up in there far enough to turn anything.
On a '02 Honda: pull the connector off the switch. Short the terminals in the wire. Now the starter should run without pushing the clutch pedal, just like a 1942 Plymouth. We never needed no stinking safety switch back in the day. But today, somebody will expect the interlock and start the car in gear by mistake, so if faking-out the switch makes the system work, get a new switch and adjust it correctly.
If shorting the safety switch doesn't do it: find someone who knows how to connect a "remote starter switch", a pushbutton that bypasses ALL safety frills and just makes the starter spin. Or someone who knows how to hot-wire THIS model car. Don't guess: Ford is opposite to Chevy and I dunno how to jumpstart a Honda. Do it wrong, and wires smoke. If the starter don't spin when hot-wired, find a starter expert. But starters rarely fail: it is usually wires and switches.
"Popping the clutch" is a way to start the engine without a starter motor. I got good at that in my '61 Willys. Park on a slope. Declutch. Release brake. Let it start rolling, 3 to 5MPH. Turn ignition on. Put it in 1st or 2nd gear, depending on the car, the slope, how warm the engine is. When rolling at what would be a slow-idle speed, let the clutch up. Car momentum will spin the engine. Trick is: let clutch up too fast, car bucks violently. Let clutch up very slow, engine turns too slow to ignite, and the car drags to a halt. There is a knack. Different for Willys or Accord (Honda needs over a hundred RPM, a warm Willys will catch on the second turn no matter how slow). And pop-starting is NOT relevant here, because you are diagnosing a no-go STARTER. Once you decide to live without a starter (I drove the Willys that way), you get good at pop-starting a car. Park on a hill, or carry two big friends to push you up to a couple of MPH. But much better to find why the starter isn't getting juice, or isn't drinking it.