!!!HELP!!! Interior Lighting Relay
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!!!HELP!!! Interior Lighting Relay
I've asked this question before, but I'll try to explain it a little better this time so that I can get some feedback.
2001 Honda Accord EX V6
I'm in the midst of an LED conversion of all of my dash lights. Like a moron, I shorted out the bulb for Fog Light switch and all the interior lights went black. I checked every single fuse in this car, and that is not the issue. The only thing that I can think is that it's the Relay that controls the illumination and dimming of my interior lights.
If you own an Accord of this model, you know that when you turn the car on - your Odometer and Clock will illuminate brightly. When you turn the headlight switch either to Parking Lights or Low Beams -- the odometer and clock will dim and the rest of your interior lights will turn on (gauge cluster, heating controls, etc.)
When I turn MINE on, the odometer and clock lights illuminate, and when I turn the parking lights or low beams on -- the odometer and clock lights go completely out and no other gauge, heating control light come on.
Now.. when you turn on the parking lights, a relay clicks -- the sound comes from the passenger side. I believe the relay is inside the box that has the fuses on the outside of it. IF that is so, how would one remove that box and replace a relay?
I'm trying to avoid taking it to a dealer at all costs because.. well.. they all suck around here.
Oh.. did I mention that this is my wife's car, and I have to be reminded that this doesn't work several times a day. HEEEEEELLLLPPP!!!
2001 Honda Accord EX V6
I'm in the midst of an LED conversion of all of my dash lights. Like a moron, I shorted out the bulb for Fog Light switch and all the interior lights went black. I checked every single fuse in this car, and that is not the issue. The only thing that I can think is that it's the Relay that controls the illumination and dimming of my interior lights.
If you own an Accord of this model, you know that when you turn the car on - your Odometer and Clock will illuminate brightly. When you turn the headlight switch either to Parking Lights or Low Beams -- the odometer and clock will dim and the rest of your interior lights will turn on (gauge cluster, heating controls, etc.)
When I turn MINE on, the odometer and clock lights illuminate, and when I turn the parking lights or low beams on -- the odometer and clock lights go completely out and no other gauge, heating control light come on.
Now.. when you turn on the parking lights, a relay clicks -- the sound comes from the passenger side. I believe the relay is inside the box that has the fuses on the outside of it. IF that is so, how would one remove that box and replace a relay?
I'm trying to avoid taking it to a dealer at all costs because.. well.. they all suck around here.
Oh.. did I mention that this is my wife's car, and I have to be reminded that this doesn't work several times a day. HEEEEEELLLLPPP!!!
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Where's that?? You mean the knob on the gauge cluster?
I have the gauges out, the heating controls out, my glove box out (trying to find that relay) already -- so all you have to do is point it out, and I'll most likely be able to see it!
I have the gauges out, the heating controls out, my glove box out (trying to find that relay) already -- so all you have to do is point it out, and I'll most likely be able to see it!
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the relay you're hearing is probably just the parking light power relay... either under the dash somewhere or the one in the under hood glove box... this sends power to the external parking lights.
As for the dimmer control, yes, it would be in the cluster in that car.
As for the dimmer control, yes, it would be in the cluster in that car.
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So even without the gauge cluster in.. the rest of the dash lights still won't work? I mean, it's hard to tell since I have everything out. But I have my clock, and my head unit in. Turn the car on -- the clock goes on, turn the lights on, clock goes out -- display for the head unit dims (note, it's an aftermarket head unit)
And how hard is that dimmer control to change if that is actually the problem? Easier to get an entirely new cluster?
And how hard is that dimmer control to change if that is actually the problem? Easier to get an entirely new cluster?
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Originally Posted by SumAccordGuy94
the relay you're hearing is probably just the parking light power relay... either under the dash somewhere or the one in the under hood glove box... this sends power to the external parking lights.
As for the dimmer control, yes, it would be in the cluster in that car.
As for the dimmer control, yes, it would be in the cluster in that car.
Below illustrates looking at the rear of the PC-Board where the dimmer is.
A
________1
________2
________3
________4
B
A and B are the main poles of the dimmer switch, and 1-4 are the aux.
A-B have continuity, and read .2 ohms.
1-2 have continuity, and read .4 ohms.
(These readings do NOT change when turning the switch either up or down)
None of the others ring out, or read any resistance.
I traced the #2 to Pin 4 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 4 is a Red wire with a White stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 4V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
I traced the #3 to Pin 5 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 5 is a White wire with a Red stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 0V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
If you need more info than this, just point me in the right direction. Again.. I appreciate any and all info on this -- it's scrambling my brain.
Last edited by lil_wheat; 03-06-2006 at 02:09 PM.
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C'mon Fellas!
Originally Posted by lil_wheat
Ok.. I took the Gauge Cluster out and I put my ohm meter on it. Maybe someone can give me some insight as to whether these results are good, bad or indifferent.
Below illustrates looking at the rear of the PC-Board where the dimmer is.
A
________1
________2
________3
________4
B
A and B are the main poles of the dimmer switch, and 1-4 are the aux.
A-B have continuity, and read .2 ohms.
1-2 have continuity, and read .4 ohms.
(These readings do NOT change when turning the switch either up or down)
None of the others ring out, or read any resistance.
I traced the #2 to Pin 4 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 4 is a Red wire with a White stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 4V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
I traced the #3 to Pin 5 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 5 is a White wire with a Red stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 0V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
If you need more info than this, just point me in the right direction. Again.. I appreciate any and all info on this -- it's scrambling my brain.
Below illustrates looking at the rear of the PC-Board where the dimmer is.
A
________1
________2
________3
________4
B
A and B are the main poles of the dimmer switch, and 1-4 are the aux.
A-B have continuity, and read .2 ohms.
1-2 have continuity, and read .4 ohms.
(These readings do NOT change when turning the switch either up or down)
None of the others ring out, or read any resistance.
I traced the #2 to Pin 4 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 4 is a Red wire with a White stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 4V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
I traced the #3 to Pin 5 on the connector on the top left-hand side (looking at the front of the gauge cluster). Pin 5 is a White wire with a Red stripe and 2 silver bands. This reads 0V to ground when the car is on, and also when the car and lights are on.
If you need more info than this, just point me in the right direction. Again.. I appreciate any and all info on this -- it's scrambling my brain.
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Well that sucks
I hate the bring up an OLD topic.. but I got an entire new gauge cluster to fix this problem and it still does the same thing. So it's not the gauge cluster or the dimmer switch, etc. Any other ideas?
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Dude.. I'll take anything right now -- I'm ripping my hair out.
Still don't think it's the actual dimmer in the gauge cluster though, since I got a new gauge cluster, ya know? But I'll try this tomorrow for sure. I just want my baby to be whole again! Hahaha
Still don't think it's the actual dimmer in the gauge cluster though, since I got a new gauge cluster, ya know? But I'll try this tomorrow for sure. I just want my baby to be whole again! Hahaha