meangreen90

bought a new egr from honda for $167. Installed egr with new gasket and tried to set timing as i had retarded it about a month ago due to pinging at high rpms. got the timing light out and connected the service connection plug underneath the pass side dash. i rotated the dizzy completly to retard it and it still wasn't enough. the "x" on the flywheel is still over an inch off from getting in thte crosshair's of the pointer. i even turned my idle screw in completly till it stopped. i don't know what further adjustments to make?? I know when i first got the car i took the IACV off to clean out what i could and put it back on. when i placed the two halves together with sylicone after cleaning out the cooling passeges, i set that allen head screw in the end that sets the idle. I set it to 700 rpms after i had it in the car b/c i didn't touch anything else. car's got 148,000 on it so i knew it was time for an egr and that was easy enough to eliminate but now i just can't get her to back 'er timing down?? got any ideas/pointers? thanks

meangreen90

wassup with the no replys on this site?? anyways got to thinkin about it and after i get my engine built and back in my truck i'm gonna go ahead and do a timing/balance belt and waterpump job on the honda. I'm thinking the timing belt must have been put on a tooth or two off...more likely just one tooth. It's real sluggish now on take off and dies in second gear. thats the only thing that could keep me from setting my timing correctly. the dizzzy can't be out b/c it's either right or it's out 180 degrees and wouldn't run at all. making sense? somebody lemme know somethin around here?!??!

h22accord

Your statement from the start is that you retarted the timing because of pinging. Then you got the timing light and retarted it some more. Now you have it completely retarted and it wont go anymore. If all your statements are correct then you need to advance your timming not retard it anymore. I know when my accord it at full retard it runs nothing like it does at full advance. I think no one has replied or tried to help because the information you gave doesnt really make sense.

meangreen90

what i was trying to achieve was no pinging and getting the timing set where the book and VECI label calls for which is having the x on the flywheel in the crosshairs. the more you advance your timing, the further away the x gets which only makes sense that my timing belt must be off a tooth if i retard as far as alowd and it gets closer but not in the crosshairs. making sense? You're only going to ping under an advanced timing situation b/c your firing the plugs before it reaches optimum compression and basically the engine is fighting itself-firing before the valves are closed causing detonation and burning your pistons...not good. making sense? lemme know

98CoupeV6

:doh: shouldn't you fix the reason you have pre-detonation instead of screwing with the timing? You ping because the gasoline is prematurely detonating, which is rarely caused by your t-belt jumping teeth.

meangreen90

ok not sure what the misunderstanding is but detonation or pinging is caused by one or more of a few things: timing advanced too far-causes pre-ignition of the fuel before optimum compression is achieved, too low octane fuel, or bad egr. i eliminated the egr as said above after 148,000 miles on the original. now as i have tried to set the timing where it calls for (x on the flywheel in the crosshairs) it gets closer as you retard the timing but is not in the crosshairs when timing is fully retarded which can only mean that either i've got the inductive timing light connected to the wrong ignition wire or my timing belt is off a notch on the cam. the #1 cylinder for a 2.2 is the cylinder closest to the drive belts correct? right so it's gotta be timing belt wouln'dt you think? I know it sounds like i know the prob but i'm telling you guys to see if anyone else has ever run into this predicament??? sorry for any confusion and hope this clears something up.