bigger rims will harm my accord?
11-25-2005, 10:27 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bigger rims will harm my accord?
i went to honda dealer today<do oil change>,and i ask someone work in there...this question...i gonna get bigger rims for my car <17rim>" ,,,,however he told that will harm my car?????anyone !!!what is that mean????is that true????
11-26-2005, 07:39 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: OH
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sure, in theory the 17" wheel and tire combo will be a bit heavier than the stock setup, so the increased mass is going to make the brakes, motor, trans and suspension work a bit harder. But the difference is very small, and the increased performance of the tires (more grip, less bodyroll) and increased looks of some larger wheels to help fill out the wheel wells is worth it.
There are quite a few people with 19" wheels on your car, 17" isn't going to "hurt" it.
I've had 18x7.5 225/40's on my car since about 30K miles, now at 95K. I've had to replace one factory ball joint (cost me $25 to DIY). That's the only oem part that has failed. Could the heavier wheel and tire combo accelerated the wear of the UBJ? Sure, but there's no way to really know.
Just get them.
But...I will also tell you to lower the car a bit so it won't get that "lifted" look with larger wheels and tires. Just 1.5" or so, and you'll like the increased handling from that as well, just make sure to get quality stuff. Do some reasearch here on the boards for suspension (springs, shocks, or a complete coilover system).
You'll find Honda tech's, employees that just don't like anything aftermarket. Some like the stuff.
New V6's (granted with much more power than your car, etc) come with 17" factory wheels.
There are quite a few people with 19" wheels on your car, 17" isn't going to "hurt" it.
I've had 18x7.5 225/40's on my car since about 30K miles, now at 95K. I've had to replace one factory ball joint (cost me $25 to DIY). That's the only oem part that has failed. Could the heavier wheel and tire combo accelerated the wear of the UBJ? Sure, but there's no way to really know.
Just get them.
But...I will also tell you to lower the car a bit so it won't get that "lifted" look with larger wheels and tires. Just 1.5" or so, and you'll like the increased handling from that as well, just make sure to get quality stuff. Do some reasearch here on the boards for suspension (springs, shocks, or a complete coilover system).
You'll find Honda tech's, employees that just don't like anything aftermarket. Some like the stuff.
New V6's (granted with much more power than your car, etc) come with 17" factory wheels.
11-26-2005, 09:09 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jschmid
Sure, in theory the 17" wheel and tire combo will be a bit heavier than the stock setup, so the increased mass is going to make the brakes, motor, trans and suspension work a bit harder. But the difference is very small, and the increased performance of the tires (more grip, less bodyroll) and increased looks of some larger wheels to help fill out the wheel wells is worth it.
There are quite a few people with 19" wheels on your car, 17" isn't going to "hurt" it.
I've had 18x7.5 225/40's on my car since about 30K miles, now at 95K. I've had to replace one factory ball joint (cost me $25 to DIY). That's the only oem part that has failed. Could the heavier wheel and tire combo accelerated the wear of the UBJ? Sure, but there's no way to really know.
Just get them.
But...I will also tell you to lower the car a bit so it won't get that "lifted" look with larger wheels and tires. Just 1.5" or so, and you'll like the increased handling from that as well, just make sure to get quality stuff. Do some reasearch here on the boards for suspension (springs, shocks, or a complete coilover system).
You'll find Honda tech's, employees that just don't like anything aftermarket. Some like the stuff.
New V6's (granted with much more power than your car, etc) come with 17" factory wheels.
There are quite a few people with 19" wheels on your car, 17" isn't going to "hurt" it.
I've had 18x7.5 225/40's on my car since about 30K miles, now at 95K. I've had to replace one factory ball joint (cost me $25 to DIY). That's the only oem part that has failed. Could the heavier wheel and tire combo accelerated the wear of the UBJ? Sure, but there's no way to really know.
Just get them.
But...I will also tell you to lower the car a bit so it won't get that "lifted" look with larger wheels and tires. Just 1.5" or so, and you'll like the increased handling from that as well, just make sure to get quality stuff. Do some reasearch here on the boards for suspension (springs, shocks, or a complete coilover system).
You'll find Honda tech's, employees that just don't like anything aftermarket. Some like the stuff.
New V6's (granted with much more power than your car, etc) come with 17" factory wheels.
11-26-2005, 10:02 AM
#4
#CustomUserTitle
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: glass case of emotion
Posts: 63,854
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't say "hurt". Like jsc said, parts will work harder in order to get you moving.
Also, you'll notice right away that you'll screw up your speedometer. I went from a 16 to 17 and when I'm going "35", I think I'm actually around 32. What this did to my odometer, I have no idea.
Also, you'll notice right away that you'll screw up your speedometer. I went from a 16 to 17 and when I'm going "35", I think I'm actually around 32. What this did to my odometer, I have no idea.
11-26-2005, 11:04 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: OH
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by hidewai
thx buddy,,,i gonna get enkei...how you think?and each rim is 17-18 pound.
Just make sure you find a wheel with acceptable offset and get the right size tire.
Originally Posted by e3NiNe
I wouldn't say "hurt". Like jsc said, parts will work harder in order to get you moving.
Also, you'll notice right away that you'll screw up your speedometer. I went from a 16 to 17 and when I'm going "35", I think I'm actually around 32. What this did to my odometer, I have no idea.
Also, you'll notice right away that you'll screw up your speedometer. I went from a 16 to 17 and when I'm going "35", I think I'm actually around 32. What this did to my odometer, I have no idea.
Sure if you want to get nit-picky and look at the fact that my 225/40-18 tires don't flex as much as the factory 195/65-15 (i4 size) and that under load the 18" tire may be slightly larger, but when you consider variations in PSI and even tire wear, my 18" tires are the same diameter as the factory size for all intensive purposes. Realize also that most cars read slightly higher than the real speed. I'm not sure what you are using to determine your real speed, but even with the factory wheels and tires it's possible to be going 32mph and show an indicated 35.
11-26-2005, 11:30 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jschmid
Sure, a general guideline is that if the weight of the wheel is the same or less in lbs as the diameter, it is a "lightweight" wheel. I wouldn't worry about an 18lb wheel at all. Some oem Acura 17" wheels weigh over 20lbs.
Just make sure you find a wheel with acceptable offset and get the right size tire.
If you get a tire that maintains your overall factory diameter, then you won't have that problem.
Sure if you want to get nit-picky and look at the fact that my 225/40-18 tires don't flex as much as the factory 195/65-15 (i4 size) and that under load the 18" tire may be slightly larger, but when you consider variations in PSI and even tire wear, my 18" tires are the same diameter as the factory size for all intensive purposes. Realize also that most cars read slightly higher than the real speed. I'm not sure what you are using to determine your real speed, but even with the factory wheels and tires it's possible to be going 32mph and show an indicated 35.
Just make sure you find a wheel with acceptable offset and get the right size tire.
If you get a tire that maintains your overall factory diameter, then you won't have that problem.
Sure if you want to get nit-picky and look at the fact that my 225/40-18 tires don't flex as much as the factory 195/65-15 (i4 size) and that under load the 18" tire may be slightly larger, but when you consider variations in PSI and even tire wear, my 18" tires are the same diameter as the factory size for all intensive purposes. Realize also that most cars read slightly higher than the real speed. I'm not sure what you are using to determine your real speed, but even with the factory wheels and tires it's possible to be going 32mph and show an indicated 35.
11-28-2005, 10:50 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: OH
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by livengreen
jschmid, where and how much did you get your lip kit and sides?