Crv-tec?
11-25-2005, 07:44 PM
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Crv-tec?
Im thinking about building a crv-tec and was wondering what can I expect when im done? Also, what kind of parts I can use to make it better? If anyone has one, what are your numbers like? (Track # and Hp#). Thanks.
11-25-2005, 11:28 PM
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cr-vtec is just like any b series vtec.
Here are the main differences between a gsr vtec motor and b20 vtec that make the gsr more reliable. Sorry I'm drunk right now so if the wording is incorrect I apoligize.
OK, crv motors have siameese cylinder castings, they are much weaker during high rpm use and therefore not recommended for anything in the 8000rpm or higher range.
Crv's use a single metal main and rod bearing, instead of tri metal like the gsr's. This makes them gall a lot easier and therefore not as good for high rpm use.
Crv engines have wider rod bearings which are also not good for high rpm use.
Crv engines do not have oil squirters, which is also not good for high rpm use. Unlike the K series, b series engines cannot just have oil squirters installed. If you switch to forged pistons and don't road race this isn't an issue, but with stock pistons it is smart to have oil squirters.
Crv pistons do not have the correct valve reliefs cut into their pistons for the 33mm vtec valves, they are designed for the 31mm valves found on the crv and ls engines. The ONLY exception to this is the P8R crv engines, but they are extremely rare. This means no cam adjustments as you can have piston to valve clearance issues.
Crv engines share the same rods as the LS engines, therefore they also share the same 8mm rod bolts, which are much weaker than the 9mm counterpart found in the B series vtec engines. These rods have an internal wrist pin oiling device which makes them a little bit weaker, while the gsr rods rely on the oil squirters for wrist pin oiling.
If you get a crv motor, try to get a b20z engine from the US. they are guarenteed to have 9.6:1 from the factory.
All JDM b20b's can be 8.8:1, 9.2:1, and 9.6:1 compression and there is no way to tell which one you have, although the ones with the knock sensor are more likely to be the 9.6:1 engines.
without the 9.6:1 compression a vtec head will have trouble pushing enough cfm's for the vtec cams. If you can't get a 9.6:1 engine, at least use a gsr head to help out with compression, and also try and mill the head to give you a little more help.
Crv engines are not a good choice in my opinion, although good power can be made. If you want 2.0, get a gsr block and sleeve it to 84mm.
thats all my drunken rambling for tonight. goodbye
Here are the main differences between a gsr vtec motor and b20 vtec that make the gsr more reliable. Sorry I'm drunk right now so if the wording is incorrect I apoligize.
OK, crv motors have siameese cylinder castings, they are much weaker during high rpm use and therefore not recommended for anything in the 8000rpm or higher range.
Crv's use a single metal main and rod bearing, instead of tri metal like the gsr's. This makes them gall a lot easier and therefore not as good for high rpm use.
Crv engines have wider rod bearings which are also not good for high rpm use.
Crv engines do not have oil squirters, which is also not good for high rpm use. Unlike the K series, b series engines cannot just have oil squirters installed. If you switch to forged pistons and don't road race this isn't an issue, but with stock pistons it is smart to have oil squirters.
Crv pistons do not have the correct valve reliefs cut into their pistons for the 33mm vtec valves, they are designed for the 31mm valves found on the crv and ls engines. The ONLY exception to this is the P8R crv engines, but they are extremely rare. This means no cam adjustments as you can have piston to valve clearance issues.
Crv engines share the same rods as the LS engines, therefore they also share the same 8mm rod bolts, which are much weaker than the 9mm counterpart found in the B series vtec engines. These rods have an internal wrist pin oiling device which makes them a little bit weaker, while the gsr rods rely on the oil squirters for wrist pin oiling.
If you get a crv motor, try to get a b20z engine from the US. they are guarenteed to have 9.6:1 from the factory.
All JDM b20b's can be 8.8:1, 9.2:1, and 9.6:1 compression and there is no way to tell which one you have, although the ones with the knock sensor are more likely to be the 9.6:1 engines.
without the 9.6:1 compression a vtec head will have trouble pushing enough cfm's for the vtec cams. If you can't get a 9.6:1 engine, at least use a gsr head to help out with compression, and also try and mill the head to give you a little more help.
Crv engines are not a good choice in my opinion, although good power can be made. If you want 2.0, get a gsr block and sleeve it to 84mm.
thats all my drunken rambling for tonight. goodbye
11-26-2005, 09:02 AM
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I posted that drunk?
well everything looks right. I guess I'll add a few things.
I talked those engines down, but they are actually potent motors.
Everything I stated that was bad about them can be fixed easily besides the oil squirters and the cylinder castings.
I've talked to Omniman about his b20vtec, as he uses one in his daily driver.
He used stock PHK pistons (9.6:1 pistons) and then a gsr head. He makes almost 230whp. He milled his head a bit and said he has about 10.6:1 compression.
The gsr rod bearings can be used, you just have to have your rods notched for them.
They are good motors for OEM builds, but you have to upgrade the rod bearings to gsr or b16 bearings, gsr being better than b16. and then also upgrade your rod bolts to arp ones... and then TUNE. detonation can and will crack the sleeves.
The piston valve relief issue can be fixed by sending them to a machine shop, or omniman actually. He said he can have his shop do them for $60 when I talked to him about it.
well everything looks right. I guess I'll add a few things.
I talked those engines down, but they are actually potent motors.
Everything I stated that was bad about them can be fixed easily besides the oil squirters and the cylinder castings.
I've talked to Omniman about his b20vtec, as he uses one in his daily driver.
He used stock PHK pistons (9.6:1 pistons) and then a gsr head. He makes almost 230whp. He milled his head a bit and said he has about 10.6:1 compression.
The gsr rod bearings can be used, you just have to have your rods notched for them.
They are good motors for OEM builds, but you have to upgrade the rod bearings to gsr or b16 bearings, gsr being better than b16. and then also upgrade your rod bolts to arp ones... and then TUNE. detonation can and will crack the sleeves.
The piston valve relief issue can be fixed by sending them to a machine shop, or omniman actually. He said he can have his shop do them for $60 when I talked to him about it.
11-27-2005, 08:58 PM
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All that info is good except the part about the oil squirters.
If the b20 is anything like the ls then the rods will have holes running through them to lube the wrist pin.
The oil squirters in the vtec motors is there to mostly cool the backside of the piston.The blocks with squirters don't have holes in their rods so they run squirters.It came from their racing side(honda). You can have the block machined to run the oil squirters, but IMO it's a waste of money.
With that said I'm still running squirters in my G/E block w/eagle rods and wiseco pistons. You can never be to careful.
If the b20 is anything like the ls then the rods will have holes running through them to lube the wrist pin.
The oil squirters in the vtec motors is there to mostly cool the backside of the piston.The blocks with squirters don't have holes in their rods so they run squirters.It came from their racing side(honda). You can have the block machined to run the oil squirters, but IMO it's a waste of money.
With that said I'm still running squirters in my G/E block w/eagle rods and wiseco pistons. You can never be to careful.
11-27-2005, 09:07 PM
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actually the oil squirters are for lubricating the wrist pin. They just happen to cool down the piston as well. I guess you could say they are for both.
I stated that the b20 has the same rods as the LS, and I also stated that they have an internal oiling device (the hole down the middle) that makes them weaker.
I will never run a honda without squirters, but then again, I'm never gonna be a drag racer. for drag squirters aren't really needed
I stated that the b20 has the same rods as the LS, and I also stated that they have an internal oiling device (the hole down the middle) that makes them weaker.
I will never run a honda without squirters, but then again, I'm never gonna be a drag racer. for drag squirters aren't really needed
