2000 Accord burning oil???
#21
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Originally Posted by SoundMan111
A month and a half after she purchased the car, it was down 4 quarts. Good thing I caught it!!!!!! We have had the dealer track the oil consumption. The original dealer says that is normal. My response was that I had not fallen off the turnip truck yesterday!?!?!?! We then had the local honda dealer track the oil consumption to document the problem. My wife also purchased the extended warranty. As a side note, it turns out that the warranty does not cover replacement of piston rings.
Don't tell me you drove the car around with a quart of oil in it...
The mechanic at the honda dealer noticed the PCV valve was an after-market replacement. So, he installed a honda part. He stated that he has seen a half of a dozen hondas burn oil when an aftermarket PCV value is installed. Unfortunately, this did not remedy the problem.
IMO the dealer is taking you for a ride if they haven't given you a bit of useful advice. How much are they charging you for all of this? Stop going to them, check the oil yourself every other gas station stop, and use 5W-30.
#22
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Originally Posted by 98CoupeV6
If piston rings don't go bad during the first 10k miles, they'll only go bad because the vehicle was improperly broken in or maintained. It's not something that should be replaced. The manufacturing tolerances on them are ridiculous.
Don't tell me you drove the car around with a quart of oil in it...
If a PCV valve clogs, yes, you'll burn more oil. It's a very simple valve so an aftermarket part shouldn't matter a bit.
IMO the dealer is taking you for a ride if they haven't given you a bit of useful advice. How much are they charging you for all of this? Stop going to them, check the oil yourself every other gas station stop, and use 5W-30.
Don't tell me you drove the car around with a quart of oil in it...
If a PCV valve clogs, yes, you'll burn more oil. It's a very simple valve so an aftermarket part shouldn't matter a bit.
IMO the dealer is taking you for a ride if they haven't given you a bit of useful advice. How much are they charging you for all of this? Stop going to them, check the oil yourself every other gas station stop, and use 5W-30.
#24
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Originally Posted by jobrien
Ideally, check your oil while your car is cold.
The engine should be allowed to reach normal operating temps, then shut off and sat for 5 minutes to allow excess oil to drain to the pan. Then you'll get an accurate reading. Oil expands and contracts just like any other liquid so you'll get inaccurate readings unless it's at operating temperature.
#25
My 2000 Accord burns oil. When I ran the dino oil it would burn about a quart every 1000 miles. I switched to Syntec 5w-30 and it dropped significantly down to about a quart every 2500 miles. From what I've read and heard I think I might switch to the Mobil1 brand.
#26
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Originally Posted by acid1216
My 2000 Accord burns oil. When I ran the dino oil it would burn about a quart every 1000 miles. I switched to Syntec 5w-30 and it dropped significantly down to about a quart every 2500 miles. From what I've read and heard I think I might switch to the Mobil1 brand.
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Unfortunately, I was remiss in my oversight of maintenance on my wife's car. Since I was busy at the time and the we had only had the car for less than two months, I did not monitor the oil level. It came to my attention when she asked why had all the idiot lights come on?
The Honda tech said the problem is not with a clogged PCV valve. A clogged valve will have the effect of forcing oil out places where it should not come out (ie back through the throttle-body). The problem stems from the fact the internal spring mechanism is weaker than Honda specs. This allows the internal valve to open too far and for too long thus allowing more atomized oil vapor to be re-burned.
I do use 5W30 Pennzoil and have since my wife purchased the car. Now I check the oil in that car at every opportunity. My suspicion is that the car was poorly maintained by the previous owner. And now I am paying the price.
The Honda tech said the problem is not with a clogged PCV valve. A clogged valve will have the effect of forcing oil out places where it should not come out (ie back through the throttle-body). The problem stems from the fact the internal spring mechanism is weaker than Honda specs. This allows the internal valve to open too far and for too long thus allowing more atomized oil vapor to be re-burned.
I do use 5W30 Pennzoil and have since my wife purchased the car. Now I check the oil in that car at every opportunity. My suspicion is that the car was poorly maintained by the previous owner. And now I am paying the price.
#28
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Originally Posted by SoundMan111
Unfortunately, I was remiss in my oversight of maintenance on my wife's car. Since I was busy at the time and the we had only had the car for less than two months, I did not monitor the oil level. It came to my attention when she asked why had all the idiot lights come on?
The Honda tech said the problem is not with a clogged PCV valve. A clogged valve will have the effect of forcing oil out places where it should not come out (ie back through the throttle-body). The problem stems from the fact the internal spring mechanism is weaker than Honda specs. This allows the internal valve to open too far and for too long thus allowing more atomized oil vapor to be re-burned.
I do use 5W30 Pennzoil and have since my wife purchased the car. Now I check the oil in that car at every opportunity. My suspicion is that the car was poorly maintained by the previous owner. And now I am paying the price.
The Honda tech said the problem is not with a clogged PCV valve. A clogged valve will have the effect of forcing oil out places where it should not come out (ie back through the throttle-body). The problem stems from the fact the internal spring mechanism is weaker than Honda specs. This allows the internal valve to open too far and for too long thus allowing more atomized oil vapor to be re-burned.
I do use 5W30 Pennzoil and have since my wife purchased the car. Now I check the oil in that car at every opportunity. My suspicion is that the car was poorly maintained by the previous owner. And now I am paying the price.
If you're up to it, it might be worthwhile for you to take the intake manifold and cylinder head cover off to inspect for excess carbon build up. If there's lots of sludge on the underside of the cover, it means that the oil was run too long or too low and you probably have a lot of sludge in the pan. The only way to remedy that is to take the pan off
#29
Oil Issue
Thanks for all in info everyone. So if I am to understand, if I was to switch my oil from 10W30 to 5W30, will this stop my oil burning problem for the time being?