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Old 09-14-05, 10:51 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshyTheKid
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to replace the timing belt at 90k.
Yes. There's a time interval as well, according to my local Acura dealer.

So to be safe, replace the belt every 90K miles OR every six years, whichever comes first.
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Old 09-15-05, 02:57 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshyTheKid
squeekage and a scraping noise when I back up. Previously the noise was from the backing plate but they said no it wasn't that, it was my I took my car into Altons at the beginning of the summer because ofbrake calipers. They said that they are too stiff and I need to get new ones early winter at the latest. So here I am, before winter looking forbrake calipers.

I need to get cheap quality calipers. How much do they cost on average for all four? This is for a 94 Sedan. I plan on changing them myself since I don't trust any of the garages around me, not even the dealers(They are overpriced and do horrible work). How hard is it of a job? I will probobly be getting an impact hammer, I heard that its hard to take the calipers off without one.
So what websites would be a good deal to buy from?
You shouldn't need an impact hammer to do the brake calipers...I did my rear caliper (and took off the other three to check for stuff) with a $20 torque wrench from Autozone. I can't tell you of a good place online to get the stuff since i don't really know of one, but you might be able to find a store that sells new/remanufactured calipers for much much cheaper than it would be from the dealerships. I got a new rear caliper for $199 from this place near me, $100 of which was a core charge that I got back when I gave them my old, seized caliper.

hope this helps some
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Old 09-19-05, 08:09 PM   #33
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Hope Anyone Can Help. My Acura Makes Like A Rattle Noise From Under The Car. I Read It Comes From The Heat-metal Shield. Would It Hurt If I Remove The Shield Of? Would The Carpet Overheat?
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Old 09-19-05, 08:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cruserfier
Hope Anyone Can Help. My Acura Makes Like A Rattle Noise From Under The Car. I Read It Comes From The Heat-metal Shield. Would It Hurt If I Remove The Shield Of? Would The Carpet Overheat?
I wouldn't remove the heat shields if I were you. Not only do they protect the car, they also help to dissipate heat when the car is parked.

Take the car into a muffler shop and have them tack-weld the shield back on. Probably a 10 minute, $10 job at most.
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Old 09-19-05, 08:42 PM   #35
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On the contrary Dave, I just made a thread about this and there seems to be no harm in removing the heat shield. Since it is from under the car, I am assuming this is the heat shield around the catalytic converter. If that is indeed the case, then the heat shield is there to keep the cat hot so that the reactions taking place inside it take place more efficiently. Removing it at worst would harm your emissions.

Tack welding it would only be a temporary fix, when you consider that the heat shield is rattling because it is corroding. It can (and eventually will) just corrode more in spite of the welds and just start rattling again.

I would suggest taking it off and just be careful if you need to park in tall grass that it doesn't light the grass on fire.
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Old 09-20-05, 03:12 PM   #36
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I have to agree with the last post by schwa. The only other thing you could do is get a catco high flow... but I'm sure that will spark more conversation
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Old 09-22-05, 09:29 PM   #37
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replacing the air filter with a K&N

I desperately need to replace the dirty air filter on my short ram intake that I have on my '94 GSR. The filter on there right now is some cheap Autozone or whatever generic conical filter. I would like to replace the filter with a K&N but I'm not sure which one to get. I want to make sure I get one that will fit before I order it. Anyone happen to have the part number for a K&N filter that would work well? I'm pretty sure the intake tube I have has a 3 inch diameter. I looked around on the k&n website for a while but I'm still not sure which one would be best...
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Old 09-24-05, 01:30 AM   #38
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Just take the dimensions of your current filter and buy a K&N replacement with the same dimensions. As long as the piping diameter is right and you have plenty of clearance, any length should be fine.
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Old 09-25-05, 02:56 PM   #39
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1990 Acura Integra

I have a 1990 Integra.. Replaced both fuel pump and relay.. Still do not have voltage at pump.. After I replaced relay it started fine, came out this morning and it would not start.. It also has aftermarket alarm that states it will enable the starter.. but the Haynes book says the factory alarm will disable the fuel system but it does not say how to reset the factory alarm. Can someone help??

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Old 09-26-05, 09:08 PM   #40
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DTC code

Can you help with DTC codes? I recently failed emissions with a P0181. Can this be fixed w/out going to the dealer? 2001 model. Thanks!
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Old 09-28-05, 07:43 PM   #41
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Can any-body help me? i bought a 2000 teg LS, it had a (SRS) light on. i took it to the shop they told me that they coldn't reset the light or find what was wrong with it. That the scanner will not give them a code. They also try mannualy by glove-box adapter and the light would not blink. what else can i do?? this is really crazy.
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Old 09-28-05, 08:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kem1020
Can you help with DTC codes? I recently failed emissions with a P0181. Can this be fixed w/out going to the dealer? 2001 model. Thanks!
Is your Check Engine Light still on? If so, grab the CEL code using these instructions and code chart.

The P0181 DTC code doesn't show up in my 1997 model year factory manual.

Also, what were your CO, NOx and HC numbers?
If you went over the limit on any of these pollutants, let us know.
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Old 09-28-05, 08:53 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruserfier
Can any-body help me? i bought a 2000 teg LS, it had a (SRS) light on. i took it to the shop they told me that they coldn't reset the light or find what was wrong with it. That the scanner will not give them a code. They also try mannualy by glove-box adapter and the light would not blink. what else can i do?? this is really crazy.
Are the guys you took the car to competent Honda mechanics?

The procedure to reset the SRS unit is rather awkward and requires the use of a specialized connector and split-second timing.

Since the SRS system is so sensitive to voltage loads, I'd recommend taking the car to a genuine Acura dealer service center.
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Old 09-29-05, 09:19 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™
Are the guys you took the car to competent Honda mechanics?

The procedure to reset the SRS unit is rather awkward and requires the use of a specialized connector and split-second timing.

Since the SRS system is so sensitive to voltage loads, I'd recommend taking the car to a genuine Acura dealer service center.
One last question is there anything that i can do to fix it my-self if not, how much do you thing that i will end up spending to fix it? I'm kind of working on a thight buddget.
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Old 09-30-05, 09:48 AM   #45
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i have 2 questions. where do i put the fluid into the transmission of a s80 gsr, pix would be greatly appreciated, also hoiw much do i add? the guy at honda sold me 3 mtf quarts and told me to add it all is this true??? thanks.
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Old 09-30-05, 04:28 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruserfier
One last question is there anything that i can do to fix it my-self if not, how much do you thing that i will end up spending to fix it? I'm kind of working on a thight buddget.
Not really. If you want the airbags to function as intended, you need the specialized jumper connector to bridge the reset terminals in a specific pattern.

So at the least, you'll need to buy a specialized tool to do the job yourself.

The only DIY solution I can think of is to remove the SRS system in it's entirety. But doing so exposes you to liability and it violates federal law.

Cost? I have no idea.
Figure about $60-80/hr for labor.
Call your local Honda / Acura dealer service center.
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Old 09-30-05, 09:24 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmeg6hatchy
i have 2 questions. where do i put the fluid into the transmission of a s80 gsr, pix would be greatly appreciated, also hoiw much do i add? the guy at honda sold me 3 mtf quarts and told me to add it all is this true??? thanks.
There is a little fill nipple that is on the top of the tranny. Hook up some hose and a funnel and pour it in.

Fill the tranny with the fill plug out and fill until the fluid starts coming out. This is usually a little less than 1.5 quarts or so.
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Old 10-02-05, 07:43 PM   #48
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ok i just bought a 89 integra ls with a 5 speed man tranny. i want speed asap so what should i put in that will do the job.
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Old 10-04-05, 12:42 AM   #49
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Hey hows it goin guys just joined this is my first post. Anyways got a kind of stupid question but I don't know much about cars so here goes. I had a decent scratch on the back of my 90 GS and I touched up the paint on it, only problem is it is flat looking, compared to the shininess of the rest of the car. I figured I had to buff or wax it or something, but wasn't really sure what the first thing to do would be. Any ideas?

Thanks alot
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Old 10-05-05, 01:05 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990 Integra
Hey hows it goin guys just joined this is my first post. Anyways got a kind of stupid question but I don't know much about cars so here goes. I had a decent scratch on the back of my 90 GS and I touched up the paint on it, only problem is it is flat looking, compared to the shininess of the rest of the car. I figured I had to buff or wax it or something, but wasn't really sure what the first thing to do would be. Any ideas?

Thanks alot
Scott
Well first you have to buff the scratch, then when you touch it up make sure you use a really small brush so that you can touch up only the inside of the scratch, also make sure you got the right paint code for the car. you can never make a scratch go away for good just by touching it up but, the idea is just to camo the scratch. good luck with it.
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Old 10-07-05, 07:34 AM   #51
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transaxle fluid?

on a b18 w.5spd is there even any transaxle fluid? I know about the transmission fluid but i found another drain plug by the cv boot (on the trans side) called the transaxle drain plug according to a haynes manual. This wonderfull manual does not mention this specific plug anywhere else however. I am now worried that she is dry of fluid on the transaxle and sad. PLEASE HELP! ps i love my car
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Old 10-15-05, 08:04 PM   #52
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the gears are hard to shift. just changed master cylinder, and slave cylinder.please help
time for some synchronizers. pretty cheap online usually
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Old 10-18-05, 10:02 AM   #53
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90 LS ignition/transmission problems

since the weather started getting cold.. my car doesnt let me take the key out immediately. id warm the car up for 5 minutes, drive to school for another 5 minutes, then when i park, the ignition gets stuck on position I. ive also noticed that it only lets me take the key out when the light for the park [P] in the gauge lights up.

ive been suggested to heat up my key in the mornings with a lighter and then stick it in the ignition since it works on car doors on cold mornings. good idea or baaaaad?

which is the problem ... the ignition or the gears??
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Old 10-18-05, 10:07 AM   #54
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upgrade project

i am currently working on upgrading my 90 integra ls that already has minor upgrades (intake & exhaust) ..

i plan on swapping the engine, manual transmission, cold air intake, & cat back system

what other basic/pratical upgrades should i include
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Old 10-22-05, 05:22 PM   #55
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Hey guys, i have a 94teg, with a b20, i recently turbod it and threw in 450cc injectors from a dsm and it runs fine at low rpm even into boost, but up around 5000rpm+ its just sputters and its total power loss... ive bin told it could be my distributor so im still waitin for a new distributor, but i was just wondering if i need a stronger ignitoion system than stock.
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Old 10-22-05, 06:38 PM   #56
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I'm working on a 91 teg. Replaced the CVs last night, an for the life of me, I can't get the ball joints on the spindle for the axle to go into the lowwer arm an seat propperly on one side to get the nut on the bolt to sit flush properly. The whole bolt is spinning so I can't tighten it down any further. I'm abit stumped and don't want to drive it even though its my only means of travel for fear of the car wanting to travel from side to side. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-26-05, 10:38 PM   #57
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I have a '92 Integra and I need a new muffler. I have one of those old school oval mufflers, I keep seeing these new mufflers that almost like exhausts. Will something like this work with my car, without having to change to much?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-93...QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-26-05, 10:53 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titans 1
I have a '92 Integra and I need a new muffler. I have one of those old school oval mufflers, I keep seeing these new mufflers that almost like exhausts. Will something like this work with my car, without having to change to much?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-93...QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks for the help
I'd keep looking for a muffler that has enough internal volume to actually reduce the noise level of your motor. That canister muffler will be quite loud and will require additional piping and hangers to fit your car properly.

For ages, Pacesetter has made a 90-93 cat-back exhaust with a resonated tip. It's similar in design to the OEM muffler, but utilizes larger diameter tubing. It's not my cup of tea, personally... but it will be quieter than the muffler you've posted. It will also be substantially easier to install, rusted / siezed bolts notwithstanding..

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Old 10-26-05, 10:57 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by someguy041587
i am currently working on upgrading my 90 integra ls that already has minor upgrades (intake & exhaust) ..

i plan on swapping the engine, manual transmission, cold air intake, & cat back system

what other basic/pratical upgrades should i include
I'd nail down which motor you plan to swap to first... before purchasing any additional bolt on mods (manifolds, intakes, etc).

There's nothing particularly hideous about the B18A you have now. Cost-per-hp, I'd forego the swap route and turbocharge.

If your heart is set on a H-series hybrid, check out our HYBRID forum. It's the place for motor-swap tech and diagnostic discussions.
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Old 10-27-05, 08:42 PM   #60
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I have one question. Do I need to remove the bumper in order to change the headlights for my Integra 95? Thank you.
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