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A-pipe buzz fix

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Old 02-18-2005, 03:10 PM
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hj788
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Default A-pipe buzz fix

I have a 96 GSR with the common a-pipe buzz, where the inner pipe of the a-pipe is loose and rattles against the outer. I called a honda/acura specialist to see if there was a fix for this other than replacing the part, which is expensive. He said what they've done is run 2 self tapping screws (1 through each section of the pipe) about an inch or so after the bend. He said this has worked for them. I've never read about fixing it this way on the board. What do you think?
Old 02-18-2005, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hj788
I have a 96 GSR with the common a-pipe buzz, where the inner pipe of the a-pipe is loose and rattles against the outer. I called a honda/acura specialist to see if there was a fix for this other than replacing the part, which is expensive. He said what they've done is run 2 self tapping screws (1 through each section of the pipe) about an inch or so after the bend. He said this has worked for them. I've never read about fixing it this way on the board. What do you think?
I don't think that would help at all. The buzzing is either from heatshields or shot welds in the manifold. I just replaced my with a DC sports header. Got performance and got rid of the buzzing all in one. If you want the stock piece, it will run you a good amount. You could always put a JDM 4-1 header on there with the heatshields. Looks stock and the gains are greater than a DC sports header.
Old 02-18-2005, 04:51 PM
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It's not the heatshields, but the welds inside of that a-pipe that have caused the inner pipe to become loose and vibrate against the outer pipe. Evidently he's had luck putting screws in it. I guess the screws help secure the inner pipe that is loose and stop the buzzing. I doubt this is a sure fix, but I might give it a shot anyways. I read of another guy on here having holes burned in his a-pipe and then welding down in those holes to secure the inner pipe. He said it worked and he hadn't heard the buzz in a long time. This was an old post. I think I'll go to an exhaust shop and see what they think about these options. If they don't work I'll live with the buzz or buy a new header. Forget the $500 for the oem a-pipe.




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