H22_CoRd_CooP

Here is the deal, its a long story. I have a 92 accord coupe with a h22 swap, i had it swapped back in november. About six weeks ago i was coming into work, and i noticed a knocking, and a squeeling sound coming from under the hood. Just as i was pulling over the engine light came on. I got out and popped the hood with the engine running, and pinpointed the sound coming from the distributor cap. I didn't know what to think. I jumped back in the car and continued to work. Later that evening i went out to the car to have a closer look. I started it up, and drove down to the local wash world bay where there was more light, and yanked off the dist cap. I noticed a redish dust all over everything, right there i figured it was a bearing! I then reassembled everything and went back to work. On the drive back the car ran roughly, and stalled a few times and was hard to start it again. I managed to get back to the parking lot at work, but had to get a co-worker to take me home, b/c the car would not start after work, there was no spark! The following few days I worked on the distributor using a test light and some diagrams trying to figure out what was wrong. I ended up pulling out the distributor and taking it home, I pulled it apart and as i had guessed the bearing was screwed! Since i had done a swap, i remembered that i still had my f22, but wasn't sure it the dist was the same. I went out to the old engine and noticed right away that the coil was external on the f22, and the housing was somewhat different, but the shaft was the same. Even the part number (PT3) was the same! I was in luck! So i rebuilt the h22's dist with the f22's shaft! Thinking i had it beat,....i was wrong, it wouldn't start, and there was no fire still! My next guess was a coil. I went to my local honda dealer and asked if someone had a used internal coil they would sell, luckily one of the techs (jack) did! I then went to the car and replaced the coil, still would not fire up! I'm pissed at this point, its been 2 1/2 weeks by this point, and driving my dads neon sucked! I went back to honda and asked Jack if he had a distributor, thinking the igniter, or harness, or pickups were fried! He had one, and i bought it for 100 bucks! Put it on, thinking ahh huh i got it now.....NOPE, still would not go, I had fire now though! The car would run, but seemed badly out of time, it would just put put put...not enough pwr to drive, not even close. I gave up and towed it to honda one morning again, and asked Jack to get it running, and to also check to see if the timing belt was off a tooth or two! He called me b4 lunch telling me to come get my car!! Ask me if I was happy! He told me there was till something wrong, but its driveable anyways! When i got there he told me the timing was perfect on the belt, but there was something in the distributor still that wasn't right! What he had done to get it going was he advanced the dist counterclockwise. It was advanced soo much that he had to grind of part of one of the mounting arms closest to the firewall so he could turn it enough back to make the engine run! I paid him, and took the car. The engine light was on, b/c it was 6 degrees out of time. At this point i could not figure out why it wouldn't run with the dist in its proper placing! Over the next few weeks i fooled around with two or three distributors that i picked up from jack, and tried every combination possible! The other night i decided to completley shear off that mounting arm the jack partially cut and fabricated a makeshift bracket to hold the dist on, seeing now that none of the holes would line up, they were out of line by an inch or more! just to see if turning the dist back even more would help! Sure enough it did, the car now pulls about as hard as it did b4 this whole situation began. Now however if the engine light is off the car will jolt and sputter, the idle is also about 1500 rpm minimum! upon acceleration, and at hwy speed it very annoying b/c its jerking and going on! If i'm just driving at 50 and then go to pick up speed a bit as soon as i depress the gas pedal the car kicks very hard, but then comes out of it until i level out my speed, then it begins the shake, and jolt! By chance i figured out that if i can drop the idle below 1000rpm that the engine light will come on, and everything runs like a charm! i Do this by putting the tranny into gear and holding the brake while letting the clutch out until the tack drops. Great pick-up, smooth acceleration, but i have an engine light, and not to mention my makeshift dist bracket! Jack had ran a scanner on the ecu, and came up with a code 9, indicating a crank sensor, or a "cyp" (cylender position sensor). Could this be the answer? If i replace this sensor, would i possibly be able to put the dist back to where it should be, and also have the shuddering go away, and the light go off? If anyone with any experience at all out there can aid in helping me with this situation please do! Its been 2 months now! I still have my f22, wondering where the sensor is located, and if it will work on my h22! I don't think i left anything out..as you can tell by this huge story! Sorry guys! Anyway replies welcome! Thankyou for your valuable time, Tyler Atlantic Canada!