H22_CoRd_CooP

Here is the deal on my h22 swap. Back about 6 weeks ago I was coming into work and i noticed that there was a knocking sound coming from under the hood. So i pulled over and i pinpointed the sound coming from the distributor cap. Later that evening the engine wouldn't start, it would only sputter, then eventually it kicked back harshly a few times, and then there was no fire! I Came to discover that the baring in the distributor seized up. Luckily i kept my old engine (f22) and came to find that the shaft in the f22's distributor is the exact same as the one in my h22. So what i ended up doing was switching the shafts. Still the engine would not run,..well it would, but just barley. It wouldn't go above 2500rpm, and would not drive! It seemed that it was out of time! I went to my local Honda dealer, and had one of the top techs there have a look at it, and what he ended up doing to get it to run, was he shaved part of the mounts that the mounting bolt goes through (on the left upper nearest the firewall)on the distributor partly off, so he could advance the timing more! (timing on belt was a-1) When he did this it ran, the rpms were averaging 1500, would not fall below 1500!! However didn't have max power, it was still off by 6 degrees on the timing light. But none the less at least it was now drivable! I also bought some used distributors off of him to see if replacing another component in the distributor such as the igniter, wire harness, and coil, may correct the situation! Nothing i did seemed to help! When on the hwy cruising at 90pkh just keeping my speed, the car would shudder and then jolt when i depressed the gas to pick up speed! This was very annoying! So what I did the other night was, I went out to the shop and again started changing around different harnesses, and igniters to see what yeilded the best results! I also unplugged all harnesses under the hood for a few minutes, and i also removed the ecu fuse under the hood, hoping maybe that resetting the ecu, would fix the problem! I also completley shaved off the mounting bracket on the distributor that the tech had modified so i could advance it more! Since the timing was now so far advanced none of the bolt holes on the dist would match up on the head, they were way off, by about an inch or more, so i had to jimmy rig a mounting bracket to keep the dist in place! I then took the car for a drive and what happen suprised me! As aoon as i started it the engine light came on! I was intriuged by this, the car at last was running perfectly, aside from my makeshift mounting bracket, and the engine light being on, things were as they should be, no shuddering or jolting! So i got to wondering what would happen if i shut the engine down and restarted it! So i did just that, and when i did it, the engine light remained off..which was good, but the shuddering was back, and the missing! I later came to learn that if the rpm guage fell below 1000 rpm that the engine light would come on and the shuddering would stop! You would think it would be the opposite! Anyway lastnight i was out driving and i shut the car down, and when i restarted it what i did was held my foot on the brake while releasing the clutch while the car was in gear so that i could bring the rpms down to turn the engine light on, and to my discust the car began to miss and shudder and jolt now even with the engine light on! I turned the car off and followed these steps agin over and over until the car ran smoothly, and after about 5 tries, i had succeeded! So now i'm up in arms here! If i put the distributor back to where it should be in the timing, it won't run, but if i advance it enough...soo much that the bolt holes won't line up it will run smoothly, but only if i follow the steps to get the rpms down below 1000! Why can't i just put the distributor where it belongs? What is causing this to happen? Is it a crank sensor? Could it have shorted out while cranking the car over that initial night? Anyway thats long enough, any feed back would be super! Thank you for reading! Btw..getting a code 9 on the ecu. which is a cyp sensor!