HELP Hydrolic line - Honda-Acura.net

Pitch11 · 01-31-05, 07:57 AM

Turns out i have air getting into the clutch line.... How can i find the leak? Can you test the line somehow?

Registered and logged-in users don't see this ad!
Register your free account today.

JimBlake · 01-31-05, 01:08 PM

You just replaced the master cylinder, right? (I saw your other thread.) Did you bleed the clutch properly? Usually if you don't bench-bleed the MC, it takes a while to work all the bubbles out of it. Keep bleeding...

The line should be steel except for the short rubber section near the slave. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, then hold it down on the floor. Watch for leaks down there. Watch for the rubber section ballooning up with pressure (it shouldn't). Watch for leaking from the rubber accordion-boot around the slave piston rod.

Pitch11 · 01-31-05, 05:52 PM

Well a friend and i bled the line for 2 hours yesterday, also replaced the slave cylinder before that... the rubber line doesn't seem to be leaking... i'm to the point of going over the line a 10th time inch by inch. The result is the same... squishy clutch that works the first time right after we bleed... i mean could it be the throwout bearing?.... basically the clutch wont disengage.

JimBlake · 02-01-05, 10:18 AM

Describe your bleeding technique. On mine, when I let fluid out of the slave, the clutch pedal doesn't spring back up. I have to pull it. If I let the pedal snap up, it can get some air in the MC rod seal. So I put a piece of string around the pedal to pull while my foot is on the pedal. That way I lift the pedal smoothly instead of letting it snap.

Watch the throw-out fork when your friend pumps the clutch pedal. It should move about 12 or 13mm back & forth.

How about fluid inventory? The reservoir is so small that you'd notice a leak just by the level going down.

I can't see it firsthand, but it seems like you've checked all the right things & now it's time to think about problems inside the bellhousing.

12yearhondatech · 02-01-05, 12:43 PM

Here is the easyest way to bleed the clutch slave/ clutch master. First you need a small oil pump can [ what you use to oil engine parts when you are putting a motor together ] and a piece of vaccun hose about 2-3 feet long. Attatch the vaccum hose to the oil can and fill the can with brake fluid. First thing you need to do is try to remove what fluid you can from the clutch master resovore. Second make sure the clutch pedal is in the upright position, then losen the bleeder at the clutch slave about 1-2 turns then attach the vaccum hose to the bleeder screw and pump fluid in slowly you will see the resovore starting to fill up with fluid and bubbles when the fluid gets to the top of the resovor close the bleeder valve. Now the pedle should be normal you just need to bleed it 3-4 times the reuglar way now and you are done.

01-31-05, 01:08 PM	#2
JimBlake Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,994	You just replaced the master cylinder, right? (I saw your other thread.) Did you bleed the clutch properly? Usually if you don't bench-bleed the MC, it takes a while to work all the bubbles out of it. Keep bleeding... The line should be steel except for the short rubber section near the slave. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, then hold it down on the floor. Watch for leaks down there. Watch for the rubber section ballooning up with pressure (it shouldn't). Watch for leaking from the rubber accordion-boot around the slave piston rod. __________________ JimBlake '03 Accord, '07 Civic '01 Saab 9³, '05 9²x

02-01-05, 10:18 AM	#4
JimBlake Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,994	Describe your bleeding technique. On mine, when I let fluid out of the slave, the clutch pedal doesn't spring back up. I have to pull it. If I let the pedal snap up, it can get some air in the MC rod seal. So I put a piece of string around the pedal to pull while my foot is on the pedal. That way I lift the pedal smoothly instead of letting it snap. Watch the throw-out fork when your friend pumps the clutch pedal. It should move about 12 or 13mm back & forth. How about fluid inventory? The reservoir is so small that you'd notice a leak just by the level going down. I can't see it firsthand, but it seems like you've checked all the right things & now it's time to think about problems inside the bellhousing. __________________ JimBlake '03 Accord, '07 Civic '01 Saab 9³, '05 9²x

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

01-31-05, 05:52 PM	#3
Pitch11 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 10	Well a friend and i bled the line for 2 hours yesterday, also replaced the slave cylinder before that... the rubber line doesn't seem to be leaking... i'm to the point of going over the line a 10th time inch by inch. The result is the same... squishy clutch that works the first time right after we bleed... i mean could it be the throwout bearing?.... basically the clutch wont disengage.

02-01-05, 12:43 PM	#5
12yearhondatech Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: las vegas nevada Posts: 65	Here is the easyest way to bleed the clutch slave/ clutch master. First you need a small oil pump can [ what you use to oil engine parts when you are putting a motor together ] and a piece of vaccun hose about 2-3 feet long. Attatch the vaccum hose to the oil can and fill the can with brake fluid. First thing you need to do is try to remove what fluid you can from the clutch master resovore. Second make sure the clutch pedal is in the upright position, then losen the bleeder at the clutch slave about 1-2 turns then attach the vaccum hose to the bleeder screw and pump fluid in slowly you will see the resovore starting to fill up with fluid and bubbles when the fluid gets to the top of the resovor close the bleeder valve. Now the pedle should be normal you just need to bleed it 3-4 times the reuglar way now and you are done.