Dr. Reef

I installed all my performance springs and shocks myself, and it sucked, but I finished it in a day.

I am concerned about DIY my brakes though because I'm not very good at bleeding brakes, and I don't want to worry about whether I did a fair job or not.

Is this an easy procedure, replacing discs and pads?

I've got Brembo OEM brakes and pads, and I'm afraid if I take it to Honda and have them install them, they'll be like, "whatever kid" and take my **** home with them and just give me HONDA parts.

Or, they will overcharge me on labor since they won't be able to sell me any of their stock products. Fu$kers.

What do you think?

SumAccordGuy94

most places wont install parts that you provide...

Its an easy job though, and no bleeding of the brakes is required... thats only if you take a brake line off.

what year accord do you have??

the 90-93's are a little difficult to change the rotors... but the other model years are easier.

get the car up in the air securely and take the wheels off (whatever brakes you are doing) On the back side of the caliper there are 2 17mm bolts that have to be removed to get the rotors off. Sometimes there are screws or bolts that hold the rotor on that need to be taken off. The rotor will come off and you can slide the new ones on... then install your new pads, you have to push the piston back in either with a pry bar or a "piston pusher" thingy (they can usually be rented from auto parts stores) and you can put the caliper back in place, bolt it on and put your wheels on... its really pretty easy.

Dr. Reef

Sorry, I failed to mention I'm working on a 1999 4cyl coupe.

I've been experiencing mad pulsation when braking and I'm pretty sure it is disc runout problems. Alignment and balance are supposedly fine according to tire place.

One other problem I've heard encountered often is that the disc rotor just won't come off sometimes and it takes a real banging or you have to put a nut on and reverse thread it to pop off the rotor.

Are there any other points I should be careful to watch out for?

I've heard I need to use brake cleaner to get the dust off, and I should wear a respirator?

Also, are there any final adjustments that need to be made when the final pieces have been put back into place?


I feel like it must be more difficult or why would nobody ever do it themsleves?

SumAccordGuy94

If the rotors are bad... you'll get shaking in the steering wheel when you brake, especially when you brake hard.

Being that they are bad, and you are replacing them... if you have any trouble getting them off just bang on them a little with a hammer and they will break loose... but being its a relatively new car, you shouldnt have a problem.

Try not to touch the rotor too much, as the grease will kill the brakes performance... you can use brake cleaner to clean things up...

A respirator is your own discresion... they dont use asbestos anymore, so there shouldnt be any health risks... if so, then i'm in a lot of trouble!!

theres nothing to really adjust... just make sure everything is secure.

BTW- some back brakes the piston needs to be turned back in, not pushed... if the piston looks like a huge slotted head screw, then it is turned back in... ive never done 6th gen brakes, so i'm not sure.

rfsurfer

like SumAccordGuy said...if it is a slotted piston (rear only if memory suits me) find something (big $@#%^ screwdriver) to turn it CLOCKWISE back into the caliper. The fronts you can usually use the old brake pad, put it on the piston and then use a clamp on the back of the caliper and the old pad, slowly tighten and it will compress, watch you dont pinch the piston boot or your screwed, and watch your resivor as well, you dont want to start leaking DOT4 everywhere...if you take your time, and pay attention to details, its a really easy job.

SumAccordGuy94

thanks for the added details!!

Dr. Reef

On my 4cyl, I've only got to worry about the discs in the front. I'm not even going to look at the drum brakes in the back. Don't see why they would be shot if the front were fine before the disc warpage.

I'm still not clear about the clamp on the piston part. I saw the picture in the haynes manual, but you know how those things are. Never can tell what the fudge you're looking at in those pics!

I guess I will either bite the bullet and figure it out myself, or take it somewhere and hope they will install my parts and not cheat me.