camshaft

I think what the problem you guys are having is
the Honda o2 sensor is a wideband o2..
The aftermarket ones you are buying are regular narrow band.

The signal from the wideband is 110% different then the narrow band.

So when it is installed the ecu knows right away there is a issue.

From what I have seen the aftermarket o2 sensors that are the correct ones. Are somes times double the price as the correct dealer o2 sensor.

I ran into a simular problem on a RSX with the primary o2 sensor. The dealership one was 250ish.. ..
the incorrect parts store one was under 100..
the correct parts store one was 600.00

good luck

Honda technician
Vancouver BC

foot

It is pretty simple to diagnose this circuit. Does the connector have power and ground for the heater circuit? Yes? Then dump the aftermarket sensor and by a honda sensor. I have seen this before as well.

yankeefan654

2000 Accord w/ 2.3 L VTEC ULEV engine - Had codes P1166 & P1167 that would not clear. Problem was the 40A fuse under the hood labeled "power seat". Car doesn't even have power seats! Read the tip in another forum and it worked.

Rodger Ludwig

My 2002 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, manual transmission reported check engine codes of P1166 and P1167. After checking into the problem, I concluded that the trouble was a bad primary O2 sensor.

After reading this web site, I immediately called my Honda dealer. They confirmed my suspicions and offered to sell me an O2 sensor for about $160. Unfortunately, when I got to the dealership, their part appeared to be used, so I declined the offer. This dealership has a policy in which they will not accept returns of electrical equipment, so I kind of wondered why they were selling what appeared to be a used unit in the first place.

When I went to a second dealer, I was asked for my VIN #. Apparently this model car is sold in two different varieties... one for use in California (a ULEV model) and a second model for use in the rest of the USA.

Ok, I happened to have a ULEV car, so I needed a much more expensive O2 sensor... Instead of paying $160 for the regular unit, I had the privalage of paying about $300 for the "UL" variety. Thank God for the environmentalists!!!

Too make a long story short, I put the expensive (UL) unit in and the codes went away. When I asked the Dealer what would have happened if I had put the low cost unit in, he simply said "the light would have stayed on". This may be the reason why so many folks on this site are having troubles even after they replace their O2 units.

The motto of the story is this... be careful to find out if you have a regular O2 sensor or the more expensive California (ULEV) model. I have the UL model and mine is designated as honda part # 36531-PAA-306. The part itself is labled "Denso 192400-1020 12C21" Please note that the wire is protected by a *green* plastic tube. From what I understand, the regular one is protected by a different color... perhaps white.

I really do hope this helps.

cruzalekz

theres a difference between an o2 sensor and an air fuel ratio sensor.


if you have a heater circuit high code, then thats just the heater circuit of the air fuel sensor. I assume your vehicle also did not have driveability problems witth that code. theres also no fuse in that circuit and the transistor to the comput3er which inturn turn on the light if anything fails

mr_teach

I'm not sure if this is a designated question/ advice column, but this code-p1166- I got is the same as others here. I do not know much about cars so I was hoping posting this thread would prove to be helpful. I have a 2002 Honda Accord Coupe 4 cyl. The problem I am having is not with the smooth- or roughness of my ride but with the starting. Mr car will start, but then shuts off after a second or two. My first thought was my fuel pump. I attempted to start the engine and I press the gas pedal repeatedly at the same time and it started and remained running. I wanted to know if this does sounds like a fuel pump problem or just what? I am trying to get good advice before I take it in and get ripped off. Thanks to anyone who can offer any level of advice.

cruzalekz

clean the throttle body. you mention that you needed to step on the gas for it to run. when you step on the gas pedal, youre not actually giving it gas but air. or if your vehicle is equipped with idle air bypass solenoid, maybe this part is gunked up too.

mr_teach

Thanks. I'm going to try that right now.

mr_teach

Ok. Cleaning the throttle body didn't solve the problem. Does the fact that it will start but then shut off after 2 seconds change the diagnosis?

cruzalekz

another problem is the immobilizer if your key or car is equipped with one.

if not, then you gotta go back to basics first such as checking the fuel pressure, clogged fuel filter, ignition problems such as bad distributor cap and rotor or fouled plugs, leaky injectors. also check the signal wire voltage for the TPS and make sure that its not at 4v to 4.8v before you start the car coz this will cut off the fuel automatically (clear flood mode).