92 Accord F22 Timing & Balance shaft belts
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92 Accord F22 Timing & Balance shaft belts
I just bought a 92 Accord w/ F22 engine and am going to change both timing and balance shaft belts in the near future. Per the Honda manual a pin to lock the rear balance shaft in place is needed to properly install belt.
The front balance shaft pulley has a timing mark to align but there is no mark on the rear shaft pulley...
My question is....do you really need that locking pin to do the job, or can you turn to TDC and mark the rear pulley with your own alignment mark before removing the belt (like the front pulley) and forget the pin tool?
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
Thanks,
Ike
The front balance shaft pulley has a timing mark to align but there is no mark on the rear shaft pulley...
My question is....do you really need that locking pin to do the job, or can you turn to TDC and mark the rear pulley with your own alignment mark before removing the belt (like the front pulley) and forget the pin tool?
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
Thanks,
Ike
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Originally Posted by Ike
I just bought a 92 Accord w/ F22 engine and am going to change both timing and balance shaft belts in the near future. Per the Honda manual a pin to lock the rear balance shaft in place is needed to properly install belt.
The front balance shaft pulley has a timing mark to align but there is no mark on the rear shaft pulley...
My question is....do you really need that locking pin to do the job, or can you turn to TDC and mark the rear pulley with your own alignment mark before removing the belt (like the front pulley) and forget the pin tool?
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
Thanks,
Ike
The front balance shaft pulley has a timing mark to align but there is no mark on the rear shaft pulley...
My question is....do you really need that locking pin to do the job, or can you turn to TDC and mark the rear pulley with your own alignment mark before removing the belt (like the front pulley) and forget the pin tool?
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
Thanks,
Ike
#3
On my '96 there was an access port on the back of the motor where you could insert a long pin, which would go through a hole the balance shaft. Since I didn't have a pin, i just used a long drill bit that was the right size for the hole in the balance shaft.
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Originally Posted by Ike
I just bought a 92 Accord w/ F22 engine and am going to change both timing and balance shaft belts in the near future. Per the Honda manual a pin to lock the rear balance shaft in place is needed to properly install belt.
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
Have considerable mechanical experience but none on a Honda F22....just wanted to run it by a few people on this board for opinions.
I've done timing belts and water pumps on Civics and Integras, and a couple of Toyotas too (MR2T and Tercel).
What's different about the F22a aside from this locking-the-balance-shafts deal? Do I need to get service manual for this timing belt job (ie is it significantly different than most OHC imports) or is it pretty straight forward?
Also, is the crank pulley bolt on F22 just like Civics/Integras - ie it will take an act of god, or a really stout 1/2" impact at 150 psi (maybe even a 3/4" impact, which I have) to break the crank pulley bolt loose?
#5
The f22 belt seemed pretty straight forward to me(certainly not as complicated as an h22). The back balance shaft isn't terribly complicated, just honda's way of making sure that everything is aligned.
The sequence of looseing and tightening the tensioner was a nothing special, but just like anything else, kinda tricky the first time.
As far as the crank bolt goes, my 600ft/lbs impact wouldn't even touch it. I ended up having a friend hold the crankshaft tool on the end of 3ft breaker bar and I used a 4ft piece of pipe on the end of another breaker bar attached to a socket on the crank bolt. After about three or four tries it finally broke loose. Since then I purchased Ingersol Rand's 1000ft/lbs impact and it worked fine on a motor I was building for a friend, I didn't even need the crank pulley holder to get the bolt off, only to put it back on and torque it.
The sequence of looseing and tightening the tensioner was a nothing special, but just like anything else, kinda tricky the first time.
As far as the crank bolt goes, my 600ft/lbs impact wouldn't even touch it. I ended up having a friend hold the crankshaft tool on the end of 3ft breaker bar and I used a 4ft piece of pipe on the end of another breaker bar attached to a socket on the crank bolt. After about three or four tries it finally broke loose. Since then I purchased Ingersol Rand's 1000ft/lbs impact and it worked fine on a motor I was building for a friend, I didn't even need the crank pulley holder to get the bolt off, only to put it back on and torque it.
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Originally Posted by SpecialED
Wow, this describes me to a T - just acquired a '92 Accord LX with 105K miles on it; unknown service history.
I talked to a friend today that runs an import repair shop and his advice is to mark the rear shaft (i.e center punch index mark) yourself when @ 0 deg TDC before belt removal. That's kinda what I thought but wanted to be sure. The whole pin thing comes into play if the belt broke in operation. If you attempt to insert a screwdriver,drill bit,etc in hole (once bolt is removed) and it will not go in you are 180 out. Correctly timed there is a drilled hole in the rear balance shaft that lines up with a screwdriver,drill bit,whatever inserted in the access hole.
I am a mechanic in the marine propulsion/railroad/electrical power generation field and routinely set up/repair/maintain up to 1200-1600 hp diesel engines and generator sets. I have a pretty good knowledge of Nissan cars/trucks...VG's, KA24's and the old L20 but new to Honda. Looks like a top quality product that should not be too different....bought a service pub on ebay yesterday...
Thanks again gents for your input and efforts
ike
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