..::n00b questions and answers::..
03-21-2004, 05:51 PM
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..::n00b questions and answers::..
It seems to be that there is still a bunch of people asking the same old questions. So the goal here is to try and answer as many of them as possible. To some of you this may seem quite elementary but just remember, there was a time that you didn’t know anything about preludes either.
First Mods –
Generally speaking the best way to start out modifying your car is to make it breath better. Even the old V8 guys will agree to this. So with breathing we are led to Intake, Header (not headers… there is only one), exhaust, high flow cats and intake manifold.
Intake –
CAI – Cold air intake
Places the filter element in the fender well providing colder intake air temperatures. Generally a CAI will provide for more top end power. There really isn't much of a difference (except price) between the AEM, Injen, iceman or a generic EBAY cold air intake.
SRI – Short ram intake
A short ram intake will place the filter element in the engine bay. You will have more airflow over stock but the gains will not be as significant as a CAI would net. SRI has shown to be better for supercharged applications due to the blower not having to suck as hard to get the air, but you are bringing in hotter IAT (intake air temps) into something that already makes the air extremely hot.
FMI – Front mount intake
This would be what I consider extreme rice. It’s that thing that “looks like an intercooler” but is just an intake. If you want to have the slightest amount of water on the road soak you filter then by all means go for it. The rest of us will be laughing when you hydro lock your engine trying to “look” cool.
Intake manifold
Current choices are quite sad. For years now Skunk2 has been giving release dates for their H22 intake Manifold, and for years they have failed to release it. As of now the only “N/A” geared intake mani available is the AIR (www.theoldone.com) but I doubt many of us can afford the $2200 price tag that they put on it.
The others on the market would be ones such as the Venom, golden eagle and some other brands that I cant think of right now. But they are all the big aluminum box style. They are geared towards turbo applications and have shown great increases for that, but poor increases if not losses for N/A.
Header
There are many options for headers available. Everything from Custom to off the shelf dime a dozen stuff. The most common are the DC, greddy, Kamakazi, etc etc.
A header is a great addition to your car. However many feel that the cheaper brands are just a waste of money. I would have to say that when it comes to this subject the old saying is true; “you get what you pay for.” That should explain enough on that. There are many good quality custom headers out there that give gains you could never achieve with the DC or greddy. SMSP, Hytech, Prospeed and Mugen are just a few. But all come with a heafty price tag on them.
Be aware that some headers are designed for FI use and others are designed for N/A use. Ask the dealer what the one you are thinking of is designed for. If it is for FI and you are putting it on a N/A motor, you could potentially lose power!
Exhaust
When it comes to this subject I am not going to be naming off any brands. Every person’s preference of sound is different. The most important thing I would say is for N/A to stick to 2.25”, 60mm and 2.5”. Anything over that would pretty much be overkill. FI (forced induction) setups would want more like a 90mm at the least leading to a 3.5” at the largest.
High Flow cats and test pipes
A high flow cat is an essential part of a complete exhaust system. Why on earth would you want to spend all that money on a header and cat back that are 2.5” yet still have the stock 2” cat?
Universal catalytic converters can be welded into place by any muffler shop, and a test pipe can be bolted right up as well. The important thing is to match it to the collector (where all the piping merges together) on your header and your exhaust piping. Do not worry if you have a 2.25” exhaust and a 2.5” collector, you can get a conversion cat made by an exhaust shop or order one online at certain stores.
A test pipe is just that. It’s a piece of pipe, with two flanges on the ends. You run the risk of throwing a CEL (Check engine light) as well as you will NOT pass emissions or CARB legally. Test pipes are not street legal in any state and are sold “for off road use only”.
That takes care of the first basic modifications for your car. Now that it is breathing better you can move onto bigger and better things. If you so choose to go more in depth to breathing you can also do head work and a throttle body.
More power mods!
Pulleys
Crank Pulley-
It is a great controversy on the H22 as to weather the addition of an aftermarket crank pulley is worth it or not. YES it will give good gains. But the difference between all aftermarket H22 crank pulleys and the stock H22 crank pulley is this. The stock pulley has a rubber gasket in-between the two sections of the crank pulley that acts as a dampener. It has been shown many times that the aftermarket crank pulleys can cause major internal engine damage due to not having that dampener. Here is one article. NTPOG Crank pulley article
Other accessory pulleys are available and will give some small gains. Some people swear by them while others swear against them.
VAFC
VTEC AIR FLOW CONVERTOR
A VAFC will allow you to adjust your air/fuel ratios as well as set your VTEC engagement points.
There are many sites on the net that have settings for it. But do NOT use any of them. Every car is different. The only way to get it right for your car is to properly Dyno tune it. The VAFC is a great tool to have and can be quite fun. But do not let it be the cause of your problems. DYNO DYNO DYNO!!!!
Why would you want to adjust your air/fuel ratios?
Because all Honda DOHC engines run rich. A properly leaned out engine will make good gains and run better (performance wise at least).
That’s all that I can think of now. Its 10 pm and I’m starting to get tired. If anyone would like to add to it please email me and I will add it and give you credit.
-Doug
First Mods –
Generally speaking the best way to start out modifying your car is to make it breath better. Even the old V8 guys will agree to this. So with breathing we are led to Intake, Header (not headers… there is only one), exhaust, high flow cats and intake manifold.
Intake –
CAI – Cold air intake
Places the filter element in the fender well providing colder intake air temperatures. Generally a CAI will provide for more top end power. There really isn't much of a difference (except price) between the AEM, Injen, iceman or a generic EBAY cold air intake.
SRI – Short ram intake
A short ram intake will place the filter element in the engine bay. You will have more airflow over stock but the gains will not be as significant as a CAI would net. SRI has shown to be better for supercharged applications due to the blower not having to suck as hard to get the air, but you are bringing in hotter IAT (intake air temps) into something that already makes the air extremely hot.
FMI – Front mount intake
This would be what I consider extreme rice. It’s that thing that “looks like an intercooler” but is just an intake. If you want to have the slightest amount of water on the road soak you filter then by all means go for it. The rest of us will be laughing when you hydro lock your engine trying to “look” cool.
Intake manifold
Current choices are quite sad. For years now Skunk2 has been giving release dates for their H22 intake Manifold, and for years they have failed to release it. As of now the only “N/A” geared intake mani available is the AIR (www.theoldone.com) but I doubt many of us can afford the $2200 price tag that they put on it.
The others on the market would be ones such as the Venom, golden eagle and some other brands that I cant think of right now. But they are all the big aluminum box style. They are geared towards turbo applications and have shown great increases for that, but poor increases if not losses for N/A.
Header
There are many options for headers available. Everything from Custom to off the shelf dime a dozen stuff. The most common are the DC, greddy, Kamakazi, etc etc.
A header is a great addition to your car. However many feel that the cheaper brands are just a waste of money. I would have to say that when it comes to this subject the old saying is true; “you get what you pay for.” That should explain enough on that. There are many good quality custom headers out there that give gains you could never achieve with the DC or greddy. SMSP, Hytech, Prospeed and Mugen are just a few. But all come with a heafty price tag on them.
Be aware that some headers are designed for FI use and others are designed for N/A use. Ask the dealer what the one you are thinking of is designed for. If it is for FI and you are putting it on a N/A motor, you could potentially lose power!
Exhaust
When it comes to this subject I am not going to be naming off any brands. Every person’s preference of sound is different. The most important thing I would say is for N/A to stick to 2.25”, 60mm and 2.5”. Anything over that would pretty much be overkill. FI (forced induction) setups would want more like a 90mm at the least leading to a 3.5” at the largest.
High Flow cats and test pipes
A high flow cat is an essential part of a complete exhaust system. Why on earth would you want to spend all that money on a header and cat back that are 2.5” yet still have the stock 2” cat?
Universal catalytic converters can be welded into place by any muffler shop, and a test pipe can be bolted right up as well. The important thing is to match it to the collector (where all the piping merges together) on your header and your exhaust piping. Do not worry if you have a 2.25” exhaust and a 2.5” collector, you can get a conversion cat made by an exhaust shop or order one online at certain stores.
A test pipe is just that. It’s a piece of pipe, with two flanges on the ends. You run the risk of throwing a CEL (Check engine light) as well as you will NOT pass emissions or CARB legally. Test pipes are not street legal in any state and are sold “for off road use only”.
That takes care of the first basic modifications for your car. Now that it is breathing better you can move onto bigger and better things. If you so choose to go more in depth to breathing you can also do head work and a throttle body.
More power mods!
Pulleys
Crank Pulley-
It is a great controversy on the H22 as to weather the addition of an aftermarket crank pulley is worth it or not. YES it will give good gains. But the difference between all aftermarket H22 crank pulleys and the stock H22 crank pulley is this. The stock pulley has a rubber gasket in-between the two sections of the crank pulley that acts as a dampener. It has been shown many times that the aftermarket crank pulleys can cause major internal engine damage due to not having that dampener. Here is one article. NTPOG Crank pulley article
Other accessory pulleys are available and will give some small gains. Some people swear by them while others swear against them.
VAFC
VTEC AIR FLOW CONVERTOR
A VAFC will allow you to adjust your air/fuel ratios as well as set your VTEC engagement points.
There are many sites on the net that have settings for it. But do NOT use any of them. Every car is different. The only way to get it right for your car is to properly Dyno tune it. The VAFC is a great tool to have and can be quite fun. But do not let it be the cause of your problems. DYNO DYNO DYNO!!!!
Why would you want to adjust your air/fuel ratios?
Because all Honda DOHC engines run rich. A properly leaned out engine will make good gains and run better (performance wise at least).
That’s all that I can think of now. Its 10 pm and I’m starting to get tired. If anyone would like to add to it please email me and I will add it and give you credit.
-Doug
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