Crank pulley bolt: reverse thread?
07-11-2005, 06:29 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by lingerbw
yessssaaaahhh.... I got the bolt off last night.
The hardware required:
(2) 10" 1/2" drive extensions (these came out past the wheel, so I was pulling outside the body of the car.
(1) 19mm 6pt deep socket (1/2" drive)
(1) 12" 1/2" drive braker bar
and the big dog:
(1) 5 foot length steel pipe
At first I was nervous with the ability to apply this much torque to a bolt. So, I started pulling, slowly at first. By the time I busted that bolt loose, I was really rocking back on the end of that cheater pipe. I can't imagine the amount of pressure that was being applied at the bolt. Anyway.... I'm very happy. On with the head gasket and timing belt job!! :thumbup:
My wife took some pics of the setup I had... I'll scan and post when I get them developed.
The hardware required:
(2) 10" 1/2" drive extensions (these came out past the wheel, so I was pulling outside the body of the car.
(1) 19mm 6pt deep socket (1/2" drive)
(1) 12" 1/2" drive braker bar
and the big dog:
(1) 5 foot length steel pipe
At first I was nervous with the ability to apply this much torque to a bolt. So, I started pulling, slowly at first. By the time I busted that bolt loose, I was really rocking back on the end of that cheater pipe. I can't imagine the amount of pressure that was being applied at the bolt. Anyway.... I'm very happy. On with the head gasket and timing belt job!! :thumbup:
My wife took some pics of the setup I had... I'll scan and post when I get them developed.
The amount of so called "pressure", which is actually called Torque, is a measurement of twisting force, which is applied to the bolt as a function of the force and the moment arm... (50lb)*(5ft) = 250 ft-lb of torque...
So, the longer the arm, the less force required...
But if you use a small ratchet, like a 3/4" drive, the force is spread out across less area, which increases the torsional and shear stresses, to the breaking point, in your case...
Also, you say you were really rocking back and forth on the pipe, there you can see and feel the deflection of the materials, steel in this case which is very ductile for the most part.
Later,
Mike
07-15-2005, 09:21 PM
#22
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once on a 92 teg i did a timing belt (10 years ago in 2ft of standing water) I had to use a 4 foot pole over my 1/2 in breaker bar and when it cracked loose, the pole was bent. 
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07-25-2005, 08:51 PM
#24
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Webpage shows how to do it
I had a similar problem with a Honda Civic, so here's a webpage that details how to loosen the crank pulley bolt:
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html
07-26-2005, 08:52 AM
#25
Still here... sorta...
Originally Posted by blanchae
I had a similar problem with a Honda Civic, so here's a webpage that details how to loosen the crank pulley bolt:
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html
09-24-2019, 01:25 PM
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The amount of so called "pressure", which is actually called Torque, is a measurement of twisting force, which is applied to the bolt as a function of the force and the moment arm... (50lb)*(5ft) = 250 ft-lb of torque...
So, the longer the arm, the less force required...
So, the longer the arm, the less force required...
you're right... to an extent. torque is measured at the fulcrum point, but when you add extension bars (socket side) you're also reducing the torque you're applying, a lot of the energy being applied gets stored in the extensions and therefore you're not getting the torque you're quoting.
proper torquing is achieved with a torque wrench and no extensions... once you start adding cheater bars or extensions you might as well just use a normal ratchet/breaker-bar.
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