Wetsanding and Polishing
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Wetsanding and Polishing
Usually after I do the spraycan painting process, I follow up with wetsanding and polishing to a finished professional shine and gloss. This will also rid the orange peel texture and finish with a smooth newly painted surface.
Following the final step found here: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=193519 ...wait about a week or so for the clear coat to dry and harden completely.
Materials needed:
•1500 Grit Sandpaper
•Rubbing Compound [clear coat safe/removes scratches 1500 grit or finer]
•Orbital Buffer
•Microfiber towel
First off, you'll need the 1500 grit sandpaper and water. I usually use the garden hose and spray when I need. What you want to do is to wetsand. Use the water to lubricate the sanding surface and use the criss cross method. Be generous with the water. It will aid in the sanding process. Do not apply too much pressure, what you want is to sand to a foggy haze on your surface. To do this, you might need to dry the surface from time to time to see if you have sanded evenly.
When dry, your evenly wetsanded surface when dry should look similar to this. Yes, it seems like all that work painting has gone to **** ...but this will be rewarding when done.
Next step, you'll need the orbital buffer and rubbing compound. I find 3M's Rubbing Compound to be the best. Apply rubbing compound to surface and light pressure on the buffer. Go across the surface and do not stay in one spot for too long as this will burn your fresh paint. Be generous with the rubbing compound and buff your surface with about 3 cycle passes. With each pass, your sanded surface should become shinier.
Once the surface is nice and smooth, go over with the microfiber towel and compound on surfaces hard to reach with the buffer. Wipe off access compound and see if you missed any spots. Repeat as necessary. Use the microfiber towel to finish up and clean off access compound.
Following the final step found here: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=193519 ...wait about a week or so for the clear coat to dry and harden completely.
Materials needed:
•1500 Grit Sandpaper
•Rubbing Compound [clear coat safe/removes scratches 1500 grit or finer]
•Orbital Buffer
•Microfiber towel
First off, you'll need the 1500 grit sandpaper and water. I usually use the garden hose and spray when I need. What you want to do is to wetsand. Use the water to lubricate the sanding surface and use the criss cross method. Be generous with the water. It will aid in the sanding process. Do not apply too much pressure, what you want is to sand to a foggy haze on your surface. To do this, you might need to dry the surface from time to time to see if you have sanded evenly.
When dry, your evenly wetsanded surface when dry should look similar to this. Yes, it seems like all that work painting has gone to **** ...but this will be rewarding when done.
Next step, you'll need the orbital buffer and rubbing compound. I find 3M's Rubbing Compound to be the best. Apply rubbing compound to surface and light pressure on the buffer. Go across the surface and do not stay in one spot for too long as this will burn your fresh paint. Be generous with the rubbing compound and buff your surface with about 3 cycle passes. With each pass, your sanded surface should become shinier.
Once the surface is nice and smooth, go over with the microfiber towel and compound on surfaces hard to reach with the buffer. Wipe off access compound and see if you missed any spots. Repeat as necessary. Use the microfiber towel to finish up and clean off access compound.
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Last edited by asiandoood; 06-25-2005 at 11:33 PM.
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You are now finished. Sit back and enjoy your DIY.
*NOTE* Do not wax or polish the surface until it cures fully. Allow about 1 month before applying any polish/wax/sealant on the newly painted surface.
:thumbup:
*NOTE* Do not wax or polish the surface until it cures fully. Allow about 1 month before applying any polish/wax/sealant on the newly painted surface.
:thumbup:
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#3
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Would this process also work with touching up the paint? Fixing little nicks and scratches to get them to look smooth and even again?
As always, good job doood and nice DIY. :goodjob:
As always, good job doood and nice DIY. :goodjob:
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Originally Posted by randomtask77
Would this process also work with touching up the paint? Fixing little nicks and scratches to get them to look smooth and even again?
As always, good job doood and nice DIY. :goodjob:
As always, good job doood and nice DIY. :goodjob:
it can..but not always fix very light oxidation and swirls on the clear coat. anything deeper than 1/16 on the surface will probably not come out.
i usually recommend this process after painting with spray paint...or to clean up the foggy lens on plastic headlights and taillights [usually on jdm lights].
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#6
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Originally Posted by asiandoood
it can..but not always fix very light oxidation and swirls on the clear coat. anything deeper than 1/16 on the surface will probably not come out.
i usually recommend this process after painting with spray paint...or to clean up the foggy lens on plastic headlights and taillights [usually on jdm lights].
i usually recommend this process after painting with spray paint...or to clean up the foggy lens on plastic headlights and taillights [usually on jdm lights].
I'm just hesitant about the wetsanding process as I'm thinking that I'd make it worst than it actually is. h:
#7
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Originally Posted by randomtask77
I got this really bad gouge in the center of my hood. I was thinking of having that area "filled" with primer, then layering coats of paint via spray cans. Then I'd try to even it out with clear and then using your DIY to make it look like the rest of the hood so that it'd look like the scratch wasn't even there.
I'm just hesitant about the wetsanding process as I'm thinking that I'd make it worst than it actually is. h:
I'm just hesitant about the wetsanding process as I'm thinking that I'd make it worst than it actually is. h:
damn...if u were closer, i'd help ya out h:
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#10
Originally Posted by civicburner
can this be done without the buffer? Can I just rub the compound in by hand?
it would take considerably longer to do it by hand. doood was able to polish the spoiler in about 30mins. by hand it would probably take 3-4hrs depending on when your arms give out.
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