Crank pulley bolt: reverse thread?
 

Is this bolt reverse thread? This is on a 95 Accord EX. I have the tool to keep the harmonic balancer in place, and I just broke a 3/8 rachet extension trying to loosen the bolt to get the crank pulley off. So, am I pulling the right way (lefty loosy) If so, I'll just go to 1/2 inch rachet next. That thing is TIGHT!! Thanks for any input.

heh...we've all been there, man. Yes, that bolt is normal thread, counterclockwise loosens it. The engine turns the opposite direction as the bolt removal direction to gaurantee that it won't back out. Consequently, it's ridiculously tight.

Squirt some penetrating oil into the bolt. Then, you're going to need at least a 2-foot, 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar and a 6-point, 17mm socket. With the car on the ground, hand brake set, and transmission in 3rd or 4th gear, get the breaker bar on the bolt, put a big cheater bar (piece of pipe) over the breaker bar, and pull with all your strength. That should crack it loose.

Put the bolt back in the same way, just give it a good twist with the breaker. Then find a shop, pay em 5 bucks to put your car on a lift and hit that bolt with an impact gun to make sure it's good and snug.

Thanks for the reply, I'll drop it off the jack stands to perform this.... sounds violent :cool:

yessssaaaahhh.... I got the bolt off last night.

The hardware required:
(2) 10" 1/2" drive extensions (these came out past the wheel, so I was pulling outside the body of the car.

(1) 19mm 6pt deep socket (1/2" drive)
(1) 12" 1/2" drive braker bar





and the big dog:

(1) 5 foot length steel pipe

At first I was nervous with the ability to apply this much torque to a bolt. So, I started pulling, slowly at first. By the time I busted that bolt loose, I was really rocking back on the end of that cheater pipe. I can't imagine the amount of pressure that was being applied at the bolt. Anyway.... I'm very happy. On with the head gasket and timing belt job!! :thumbup:

My wife took some pics of the setup I had... I'll scan and post when I get them developed.

i use an ingersoll rand 3/4" impact. takes 2 seconds.

You really should torque the crank pulley back to spec, really anytime you unbolt anything on the motor, you need to torque it back to spec, dont just get an impact gun or a breaker bar and call it good. If you do it right you'll only have to do it once

I didn't have that luxury, so I made due with hand tools.

I agree completely. I'll torque it to spec when it goes back on.

It is a good idea to torque it to spec, I know. But, much like the reply to the impact gun, not all of us have the tools needed to get a bolt to 147 ft.lbs. of torque. My biggest torque wrench (got 3 of em) stops at 125 Ft. Lbs., so that's as far as I got.

I work at Mitchell Repair, so I'm surrounded by mechanics. They all told me that a hit with an impact gun on that crank bolt is enough to hold it. That'll set it to around 100 ft.lbs., and the fact that the bolt turns against the rotation of the pulley will set the bolt into place over a few miles.

I don't want to get into a pissing contest about torquing or not torquing.... let's get back to what's important: I got the bolt off :thumbup:

(can you tell that I'm happy about this? ;) )

Thanks for all the input guys... I'm sure I'll be back with more questions before this project is over and done.

I have to say that in the Helm manual, it states specifically NOT to use an impact wrench when replacing the crank bolt.

As did I. Impact guns are :cool:

Hi guys. I know this thread is old but just in case. I have a Accord 2.0iS (UK) sounds similar to the 2.0.EX USA. I tried in vain this weekend to remove the pulley bolt. I was going to buy the pulley attachment tool to hold the crank solid. Costs about £62 $85 us dollars. Reckon the extensions and a length og pipe in my raker bar should do it. Any comments

5ft length of pipe over the end of my breaker bar did the trick for me. Some guys say leave the car in 5th gear and put it on the ground and you don't need the pulley tool. I used the tool, though.

I tried it in 5th gear but the breaker bar did not have much movement even though I had the car on ramps. The idea of extending out beyond the car body sounds like a good idea. :)

I don't see any other way to get the clearance you need for the long pipe, unless you're on a lift. But, yeah, I extended everything out, then stacked up some lumber where the 90 degree turn was (for support) and then pulled.

Hmmmm.....Didn't work for me. I tried my Aircat Impact wrench with 1000FT LBs in reverse, and the crank pulley holder tool.....no luck. Then I saturated it with PB blaster, several times over and gave it an hour to work.....no luck. Then I got a couple of 10" 1/2"dr extensions, an 18" craftsman breaker bar, and a 6 foot piece of steel pipe and snapped the breaker bar. No luck.

I just bought a Propane torch today, so this weekend I'm going to make that sucker glow, and see if I can twist it off then!

Uh-oh. It's a normal thread bolt. You should be attempting to crank it counter-clockwise. I'd give the impact another shot if I were you. Good luck.

Second vote for the impact. I made a tool at work to stop the pulley from spinning so I could get the bolt loose. I grabbed some extensions and a cheater bar and tried to break it loose. I pried so hard that the leverage I was using lifted the front end of the car off the ground!

I don't have the luxury of an air compressor and impact so I made a trip to a local garage to have them bust it loose. $10 and a two second blast with an impact had it off in a jiffy. I just had them tighten it up good enough to get back to my house.

I suggest using a torque wrench to put the bolt back on. Sure, you can probably get away with giving the bolt a couple of baps with the impact gun but don't risk breaking the bolt or the end of the crankshaft. Using a torque wrench is simple even if you're a flatrate mechanic.

The amount of so called "pressure", which is actually called Torque, is a measurement of twisting force, which is applied to the bolt as a function of the force and the moment arm... (50lb)*(5ft) = 250 ft-lb of torque...
So, the longer the arm, the less force required...
But if you use a small ratchet, like a 3/4" drive, the force is spread out across less area, which increases the torsional and shear stresses, to the breaking point, in your case...
Also, you say you were really rocking back and forth on the pipe, there you can see and feel the deflection of the materials, steel in this case which is very ductile for the most part.
Later,
Mike

once on a 92 teg i did a timing belt (10 years ago in 2ft of standing water) I had to use a 4 foot pole over my 1/2 in breaker bar and when it cracked loose, the pole was bent. :) Welcome to HONDA :)

I've never had a problem taking the bolts off. Moroso tool and a NAPA breaker, easy easy.

Webpage shows how to do it
 

I had a similar problem with a Honda Civic, so here's a webpage that details how to loosen the crank pulley bolt:
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html

That's great and all, but it puts uneven pressure on the pulley and will likely bend it depending on the amount of force. I would recommend getting the correct tools for the job. ;)

Man, that is another stupid idea, LOL.

Get the right tools, I.E. a chain wrench, and it couldn't be simpler. :D

I'm going to get laughed at for reviving such an old thread but I couldn't resist (made an account for it and everything)

you're right... to an extent. torque is measured at the fulcrum point, but when you add extension bars (socket side) you're also reducing the torque you're applying, a lot of the energy being applied gets stored in the extensions and therefore you're not getting the torque you're quoting.
proper torquing is achieved with a torque wrench and no extensions... once you start adding cheater bars or extensions you might as well just use a normal ratchet/breaker-bar.