P1166, P1167 check engine light
 

The check engine light came on so I checked it with the scanner, it read P1166 and P1167 as the code. According to the code it is Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction and Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction. I was told that it was related to the O2 so I bought a new O2 and replaced it, then cleared the code. Well after about 2-3 minutes the code P1167 comes back on, and I reset it again and it keeps coming back on. Could someone please help me with this. thanks

what do you have for mods? and what year is your accord?

depending on the year, your car will have 2 O2 sensors. Otherwise it could be a blown fuse. The heater circuit on these cars IS fused.

I have a 98 accord EX 4 cyl. I changed the bottom one already and its not causing any problems. The code was specifically for the primary O2 before the cat. Where is the fuse for the heater circuit and what voltage is it? Wouldn't the light come back one right away after it was cleared if the fuse was blown? All I have for mods is a Short ram.

how is your air filter? if you still have a stock a filter check it. I'd also recommend getting some fuel injector cleaner and running that thru.

The filter is pretty good. The code says that the heater system is manfuncting. Is there anything else that could cause the code P1167 to pop out? I will run a bottle of injection cleaner and see what happens but I don't think it's that since it said Air Fuel Ratio. Please help me.

can anyone help me with this. I really need to get this thing sorted out because I get horrible gas mileage with the light on.

Problem solved
 

I contacted KidFuzion and he told me that he solved the problem by buying a new O2 sensor from Honda. I did the same and it solved the problem also. Just wanted to update this thread with the new info.
P1167 and P1166 codes relate to the primary O2 sensor heater malfunction.
I tried two different O2 sensors, a "universal" sensor from Autozone and a supposedly OEM sensor from O'Reilly's. Both of them caused the car to throw a P1167 code and run rough. I finally purchased a O2 sensor from Honda, and it fixed the problem. It turns out that none of the aftermarket probes from Bosch or Denso will work on a ULEV (F23A4) 4 cyl. engine. Honda had different part number probes for the normal VTEC 4 cyl. and the ULEV Vtec engine and the probes look different and have different length cables. The computers at O'Reilly's, Autozone, or NAPA made no distinction between these two engine types.

P1167 - bosch universal O2 sensor
 

Because this thread helped me, I thought I would post with my experience: hopefully, it will help someone else.

My car is a 2002 Honda CR-V 4WD (i-vtec engine). Anyway, the check engine light came on and a code reader read p1166 and p1167. This code denotes a problem with the upstream O2 sensor or its wiring. Trying to save money, $61 vs. $260 OEM, I bought the Bosch Universal O2 sensor (part #15730). This is the part specified on the Bosch website and all the part stores I went to. After installing the check engine light remained on and the car ran rough with a little lifter chatter. I had the code read again it it specified p1167. After reading the post by ehudson and kidfuzion, I bought the OEM sensor from the dealership the next morning. After installing this and removing the negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes, the car ran very smoothly and the check engine light was gone and has not returned.

I have a theory as to why it didn't work. It was wired correctly, so rule that out. I think that, as others have explained, the Bosch #15730 sensor is the wrong part , eventhough, as I mentioned, the parts stores have it as an acceptable alternative for the OEM upstream/primary O2 sensor in a 2002 Honda CR-V. My thinking, as I believe others is, is that the motor is K24A4 and not K24A1, as parts stores and Bosch indicate, for this make and model year, which would make the upstream/ before cat Bosch universal for this application #15733 instead of #15730 ( I am not a Honda tech-y guy so I have no idea how to tell which number my vechicle's motor is. If anyone has any way to find out, I'll try and identify it so as to improve the quality of information about this apparent problem with what is displayed by part stores, etc., in terms of non-OEM O2 sensors on this and similar vechicles). It should also be noted that I did not try the Bosch sensor made to specifically replace upstream sensor(#13706) because it is cost comparable to Honda part ($20-$30 price difference).

I know others have explained this thoroughly, but I haven't seen anyone experience this problem with a CR-V. Hopefully, this post helps someone and maybe we can figure out the exact reason these non-OEM sensors don't work properly (I am sure it is unrelated to quality of part construction).

Keywords for search: Honda CR-V Bosch Universal O2 Sensor CRV p1167 p1166

Hello
 

[QUOTE=KiDFuZioN;1762384]I have a 98 accord EX 4 cyl. I changed the bottom one already and its not causing any problems. The code was specifically for the primary O2 before the cat. Where is the fuse for the heater circuit and what voltage is it? Wouldn't the light come back one right away after it was cleared if the fuse was blown? All I have for mods is a Short ram.[/QUOTE

I also have the same exact year and make honda. I just replaced the o2 sensor with a botch part, now the check engine light is coming and my car was jerking like the transmission was going bad but now when I drive it is not jerking at all. Do you think that I'm going to have to spend 180 dollars to buy a new sensor? The code I'm getting is p1167and p1381

I think what the problem you guys are having is
the Honda o2 sensor is a wideband o2..
The aftermarket ones you are buying are regular narrow band.

The signal from the wideband is 110% different then the narrow band.

So when it is installed the ecu knows right away there is a issue.

From what I have seen the aftermarket o2 sensors that are the correct ones. Are somes times double the price as the correct dealer o2 sensor.

I ran into a simular problem on a RSX with the primary o2 sensor. The dealership one was 250ish.. ..
the incorrect parts store one was under 100..
the correct parts store one was 600.00

good luck

Honda technician
Vancouver BC

It is pretty simple to diagnose this circuit. Does the connector have power and ground for the heater circuit? Yes? Then dump the aftermarket sensor and by a honda sensor. I have seen this before as well.

Codes P1166 & P1167
 

2000 Accord w/ 2.3 L VTEC ULEV engine - Had codes P1166 & P1167 that would not clear. Problem was the 40A fuse under the hood labeled "power seat". Car doesn't even have power seats! Read the tip in another forum and it worked.

2002 Accord LX CEL Trouble codes 1166 and 1167
 

My 2002 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, manual transmission reported check engine codes of P1166 and P1167. After checking into the problem, I concluded that the trouble was a bad primary O2 sensor.

After reading this web site, I immediately called my Honda dealer. They confirmed my suspicions and offered to sell me an O2 sensor for about $160. Unfortunately, when I got to the dealership, their part appeared to be used, so I declined the offer. This dealership has a policy in which they will not accept returns of electrical equipment, so I kind of wondered why they were selling what appeared to be a used unit in the first place.

When I went to a second dealer, I was asked for my VIN #. Apparently this model car is sold in two different varieties... one for use in California (a ULEV model) and a second model for use in the rest of the USA.

Ok, I happened to have a ULEV car, so I needed a much more expensive O2 sensor... Instead of paying $160 for the regular unit, I had the privalage of paying about $300 for the "UL" variety. Thank God for the environmentalists!!!

Too make a long story short, I put the expensive (UL) unit in and the codes went away. When I asked the Dealer what would have happened if I had put the low cost unit in, he simply said "the light would have stayed on". This may be the reason why so many folks on this site are having troubles even after they replace their O2 units.

The motto of the story is this... be careful to find out if you have a regular O2 sensor or the more expensive California (ULEV) model. I have the UL model and mine is designated as honda part # 36531-PAA-306. The part itself is labled "Denso 192400-1020 12C21" Please note that the wire is protected by a *green* plastic tube. From what I understand, the regular one is protected by a different color... perhaps white.

I really do hope this helps.

theres a difference between an o2 sensor and an air fuel ratio sensor.


if you have a heater circuit high code, then thats just the heater circuit of the air fuel sensor. I assume your vehicle also did not have driveability problems witth that code. theres also no fuse in that circuit and the transistor to the comput3er which inturn turn on the light if anything fails

I'm not sure if this is a designated question/ advice column, but this code-p1166- I got is the same as others here. I do not know much about cars so I was hoping posting this thread would prove to be helpful. I have a 2002 Honda Accord Coupe 4 cyl. The problem I am having is not with the smooth- or roughness of my ride but with the starting. Mr car will start, but then shuts off after a second or two. My first thought was my fuel pump. I attempted to start the engine and I press the gas pedal repeatedly at the same time and it started and remained running. I wanted to know if this does sounds like a fuel pump problem or just what? I am trying to get good advice before I take it in and get ripped off. Thanks to anyone who can offer any level of advice.

clean the throttle body. you mention that you needed to step on the gas for it to run. when you step on the gas pedal, youre not actually giving it gas but air. or if your vehicle is equipped with idle air bypass solenoid, maybe this part is gunked up too.

Thanks. I'm going to try that right now.

Ok. Cleaning the throttle body didn't solve the problem. Does the fact that it will start but then shut off after 2 seconds change the diagnosis?

another problem is the immobilizer if your key or car is equipped with one.

if not, then you gotta go back to basics first such as checking the fuel pressure, clogged fuel filter, ignition problems such as bad distributor cap and rotor or fouled plugs, leaky injectors. also check the signal wire voltage for the TPS and make sure that its not at 4v to 4.8v before you start the car coz this will cut off the fuel automatically (clear flood mode).

2002 Cr-V LX: Fixed P1166 and P1167, Got P1456
 

Hello Guys,
Thanks for great help, With the help of the members I am able to fix P1166 and P1167 error code on my 2002 CR-V. I replaced 02 sensor by Denso 234-9005 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor). Got it from Amazon for $124. (Now on sale for $100).

This fixed the problem right away, CIL light went off by just turning the key to on position.

Drove for 2 days (about 100) miles. Engine light came on again.... :(

I am getting error code P1456 "EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)"

Any help ? I suspect, I might not have seal the sensor properly by anti-seized stuff or some other issue.

you need access to a bi directional scanner to test solenoids and smoke pro to smoke the system

Apparently, couple days before I changed the O2 Sensor My wife filled up the GAS and did not tight the GAS cap as required. So this new error was for that. It been few days now since I tight the GAS CAP CIL light is off. So I am hoping that was the ISSUE.

Thanks

I couldn't find out what type of engine I had F23A1 or F23A4, then I noticed on the black plastic belt cover on the driver's side of the engine next to the valve cover, there's a white label with F23A4 on it.
Thanks for the good info. I have code 1167 and all the fuses are good. I'm going to change the air filter and run some fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank, then if that doesn't help I'll buy the Honda part for a SULEV (currently $310.00 + tax) unless AutoZone can prove to me that their $119.00 Bosch version will work for a SULEV. I also noticed a Denso version which has the right Honda part no. for $189. on Amazon.com.

Looks like my O2 sensor failure might have been caused by using too hot spark plugs. The failure occurred awhile after I installed E3 Diamond Fire spark plugs on the advice of a friend. Since then I've had several ignition components fail along with the O2 sensor, and a mechanic traced it to the plugs causing a domino effect of component failures by putting a strain on the ignition and emissions systems. Best to stick with stock Denso plugs if you haven't beefed up the rest of your systems. Mine is stock and stock Hondas are very sensitive. $2000 lesson learned. I have since heard from another friend who tried the E3 plugs in an Audi and had the same problem later on. Fried the coil...

I wanted to post something on this problem because I had such a hard time with it. I kept getting the same "check engine" error that everyone else was getting. I replaced both O2 sensors with both Bosch and Denso brands and the problem kept coming back. I found out by calling the dealer that I had a California emissions engine and that I needed a "special" O2 sensor that costs $330. I took the vehicle to my mechanic and he called a friend of his that specializes on Hondas. He told him that certain Hondas with ULEV VTECH engines do require a special sensor. He suggested that I used Bosch 13493. It worked. Hope this helps someone out.

Can you please tell me is this Bosch 13493 for the '02 CRV EX? I have both of the codes P1166 and P1167 and would like to make sure I get the correct part for my '02. How would I tell if my engine is the ULEV VTECH? I did buy my CRV on the East Coast so thinking it is not he ULEV but need to make sure of that also. Any and all help is appreciated as I am a single mom and have someone to install this part, but I just have to get the correct part for my Honda. Also any suggestions where I can acquire this part as inexpensive as possible. Your assistance much appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Meinmd,

My Accord has a windows sticker on the left rear window that says SULEV (Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle). I"m not sure if the ULEV CRXs also have that or not. Also, and more obviously, it should say it right on the engine. Mine is stamped with "SULEV-VTEC" in big letters right on top of the fuel injection unit.
If your's is from the East Coast there's a good chance you don't have it, but in any case, stick with the OEM parts, or Denso brand.

I got the same error for my '02 Honda Accord EX with ULEV. Has anyone tried using Bosch 13512 part number? I've tried all places for a suitable sensor for my vehicle but none of the store guarantee that my codes will disappear and refuse to take back the product if it doesn't work. I'm over due for inspection and just want to get the part that works. Please help me with your experience on which part is best for ULEV engine.