FAQ: EGR Port Cleaning - Engine Hesitation/Stumbling
 

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

The EGR system is designed to reduce oxides of nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the EGR valve and the intake manifold into the combustion chambers. It is composed of the EGR valve, EGR vacuum control valve, EGR control solenoid valve, ECM/PCM and various sensors.

The ECM/PCM contains memories for ideal EGR valve lifts for varying operating conditions. The EGR valve lift sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends the information to the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then compares it with the ideal EGR valve lift which is determined by signals sent from the other sensors. If there is any difference between the two, the ECM/PCM cuts current to the EGR control solenoid valve to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.

SYMPTOM: An engine hesitation or stumble can be felt under light acceleration between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm.

PROBABLE CAUSE: Carbon build-up has restricted the EGR ports into the intake manifold runners.

CORRECTIVE ACTION: Clean the carbon out of the EGR ports.

Cars and Engines Applicable To - More will be added if found. Please add your own if you have a good how-to on it.

90-93 Honda Accord F22
98-02 Honda Accord J30A1

I have that same stubbling on my car. Halla back at me.

I think I'm going to try the diagnostic procedure outlined in the Honda TSB first but here are two more sites with other explanations of the EGR port cleaning procedure. Please post what your results were.

From about.com

Tech2Tech TSB (has photos)


-g

WTF :confused:

Nice finds. The TSB I posted for the 90-93 is a little fuzzy anyway and not explained as well as the 98-02 TSB. Good luck and try to take some pics if you can :thumbup:

egr port cleaning for 3rd gen (86-89) accord?
 

I am a newbie here.
I am usually on www.3geez.com
does anybody have a "how to" on cleaning the egr port on a
3rd gen accord lxi?

EGR Port Cleaning
 

I have cleaned the port successfully without removing the throttle body.
I got the EGR flow message when OBD 'd. I will post some pictures later as a rough tutorial so you dont have to be porked by the dealer. Very easy job. and my car drives better than when I bought it.



Accord V6 '99 3.0L 114,000mi

To properly clean the port you have to remove the intake manifold. Your light is just going to come on again in the near future.

are there any how-to's on the 6gen accord v6?

I've posted it many times. Do yourself a favor and buy the Helms service manual. All you have to do is remove the throttle body and intake manifold and it'll be painfully obvious which one is the EGR port.

EGR Port clean on 1999 V6 3.0L
 

First you take the ignition wire rail off and plastic covers and 3 plug wires out of front. You do not need to remove the throttle body. See pictures below for things to disconnect.(red dots) Use a 2 by 4 to prop the manifold up so you can dig out the junk from the egr port.

http://suprfile.com/src/1/2qgg6ca/back manfld.jpg

http://suprfile.com/src/1/2qgh5hg/egr port.jpg

http://suprfile.com/src/1/2qgjn8w/frnt mnfld.jpg

http://suprfile.com/src/1/2qgkcts/side manfld.jpg


**cover all holes manifold and spark plug holes with cloth, tape etc
I also used qtips sprayed with throttle body cleaner for cleaning EGR port. You will need long ones for the Lower manifold.

I would really, really recommend removing the throttle body and intake manifold completely so that you can clean them thoroughly. It only takes 5 minutes to get the TB off, 2 bolts and 2 nuts. You'll be amazed at how dirty everything is. Take the IM apart and let it soak with some carb cleaner. And make sure the IM is torqued down to the correct spec with the factory bolts or you'll have problems.

Also use the link below too the actual procedure used by the dealer. It has the tourque specs and order for tightening. This was a big help. After you're done reassembling the manifold you need to pull the #13 fuse out for 10 seconds. Its on the passenger side and a 7.5 fuse. 4th one up if I remember right. The Haynes manual has the codes and locations of fuses and a wealth of other valuable info. My car drives like a V6 should now. Its night and day. The knocking and noticeable shift bumps are gone and it has plenty of power. It also helps if you have a K&N filter in the filter box and Amsoil synthetic ATF in the tranny instead of the crappy Honda ATF. Royal Purple makes ATF which would be better than Honda ATF. I loathe Honda dealerships and parts depts.:mad:
Good Luck:oh:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf

You dont need to remove the Throttle body. The throttle body does not come off easy BTW.

If you were to take it to a dealership heres an estimate of what you would pay:

Computer diagnostic..........apprx $50
You will get an EGR lift code or EGR insufficent flow ( all code descriptions are in Haynes manual)
I took my car to the local Autozone and they hooked up the ODB2 for free.
EGR lift = Need new EGR valve
EGR flow = Dont need EGR valve
A new EGR valve will run you around $250 or slightly less aftermarket.
What do you think they will tell you came up? Im betting EGR lift so they can slap in a new EGR for you. Besides they have to drill it out and put the teflon tube in etc. They probably charge you for the drill,Tube and any other stuff that comes with it.
EGR Tube Kit etc.................Apprx $50 (guessing)

Labor according to the TSB sheet is 1.5 hrs. $70hr in my neck of the woods. Which doesnt mean they wont round off to 2 hours when they go over by 10 or 15.

So when its all said and done you could be looking at $500 if not more when they've fixed the EGR and who knows maybe they'll charge you to reset the car computer which is nothing more than pulling the #13 fuse.
Do some research before you ask the Honda service dept for info because their job is to milk you any way they can!!

No kidding see pictures...........:rolleyes:

98CoupeV6,
Why would I buy a Helms manual when I can get a Haynes which is better for much cheaper?!! 98CoupeV6 is a total NOOB!! The TSB that I posted has all the info you need.

Does this effect Vtec-h?

Well you do if you want to do a complete job by removing all the carbon buildup in the IM and TB. And I've taken my TB off about 10 times in the last 2 months. There's nothing difficult about it. Remove intake house, remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts, pull away, clean. It's a hell of a lot easier than the IM.

Don't be a douche when I'm trying to help others if they want more info, noob.

You'll find that out when you do something a little more difficult than removing 6 bolts on top of the intake manifold or your car won't start for no apparent reason :rolleyes: If you're going to be so narrow minded, I suggest visiting people like you at www.honda-tech.com or www.superhonda.com. Bring your 2 foot tall spoiler.

:reechy:

98coupeV6,
Again its painfully obvious you dont do work on your car. I have cleaned the throttle body a month ago by way of removing the rubber cowling coming from the air filter box. I will no longer be responding to you because you are a waste of time and are just recycling info without doing the job yourself. You havent done the job. When people cant provide pertinent details and are general and unspecific about a job they reveal their lack of knowledge etc.
98coupeV6 is a BS'er who can only read a TSB. He/she should actually try getting hands dirty.......

98CoupeV6 clearly does not know squat:rolleyes: "youll be amazed at how dirty everything is" Are you for real?..:oh:

who the hell are you two?? :gtfo:

who the heck are you?:cool:

Front view- disconnect these also

http://suprfile.com/src/1/2uxqb1z/front manfld.jpg

I was able to get the2 nuts and 2 bolts out on the Throttle Body but could not actually pull the TB off the Intake Manifold. It felt like it was welded on:( . Any tips on getting it off? I ended up doing exactly what the previous poster did was hold the intake up and just clean it from underneath but cleaning the whole thing would be preferred. Also now that I have cleaned it, would using soomething like SeaFoam every 10K miles be helpful?

If you want to clean the throttle body intake you can take the rubber cowling off coming from the filter box and spray it. There is a mass air flow sensor somewhere in there also. Im guessing inside the rubber cowling. As far as using products like seafoam and Lucas upper cylinder head cleaner I would not waste money on the 'Mechanic in a can' stuff. Several days before my check engine came on I had put some Lucas cleaner in. This may have loosened some carbon up and may have hastened the clog'd EGR ports problem. Just follow the pdf I posted and hook up all vacuum hoses etc and pull and reinsert the 13 fuse and you should be good to go. My Check engine has stayed off and my car runs awesome since cleaning the ports out.

not sure if this is what you guys mean by the problem, but i might have it. on my AUTOMATIC 98 accord, when i step on the gas like a little hardish (lol), it takes a little less than half a second to react. and when im driving at a constant speed of 40mph then i decide to smash on the peddle, i get a hesitation time about half a second, then my car jerks with speed.

k, im a noob and i have no clue about wat a throttle body is and stuff and i have no clue on what those little tube thingies that connect to the engine are. you think i can still clean it by looking at those pcitures?

damn.... fucking noobs bashing on 98coupeV6 :squint: