95 Odyssey Doors Locking
08-07-2007, 10:12 AM
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95 Odyssey Doors Locking
Hello, we have a 1995 Odyssey and when we lock the doors they keep locking constantly and draining the battery overnight. It always starts in the morning but our honda mechanic has noted a slightly weak battery. I haven't told them about the problem with the lock. I am hoping to do the repair myself and save some money.
thank you,
mwp
thank you,
mwp
08-08-2007, 09:05 AM
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How bad are they to replace? I have one sitting at home that needs to be put into my Accord soon... Also, midwest, I have the same problem but it's not constant. Most likely stripped gears in the actuator and needs replacing. Mine was ~$50 shipped from rockauto.com
08-09-2007, 07:27 AM
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Just threw my new actuator in yesterday, very easy to install although somewhat cramped working space. If you have a Hayne's (or Chilton's like me) it is unlikely that you will find any material on the door actuator, I have no clue why. I can do a write up to replace it yourself (keep in mind this is for a 95 Accord, but should be similar):
Disclaimer: I am not liable for any damage done to yourself or your car. Be safe and use logic.
*Note: It's a wise idea to disconnect your batttery. Everytime I unplug stuff in the doors I burn out the fuse that controls the interior dome and courtesy lights, headlight reminder chime, and intermittent windshield wiper operation.*
1. *This is easiest done with the window down.* Remove interior door panel by removing a) the plastic plug near the mirror area, b) the screw behind the door handle, and c) the screw in the hand "cup" near the controls. Remove the plastic triangle that covers the mirror wiring and nuts. There should be one metal clip and one plastic tab holding it on. Next, grab the bottom of the panel, slipping your fingers or a large flat screw driver (warning: may damage paint) and prying the panel towards you swiftly. There are ~10 plastic plugs along the bottom of the panel that lock into the door frame. Pull the bottom out towards you, leaving the lip in the window channel to act as a hinge and unplug all of the controls. Lift the panel straight up out of the window channel and over the lock tab.
2. *This might be an optional step, but it wasn't hard and made the overall install quicker.* To remove the window glass, reconnect the window control (it can be easily removed form the door panel and hung in place while you work) Roll the window up/down until the 2 bolts attaching it to the window motor arm are lined up in the two holes in the door frame. Remove them with a 10mm socket and 3" extension. Don't worry, the window will not fall down. Next, using two hands, pull the window straight up. As it gets closer to the top gently pull it out on the exterior side of the door. BE VERY CAREFUL, THIS IS NOT A CHEAP THING TO REPLACE. Installation is in reverse order.
3. *Also might be option depending on how much access you have to the actuator* Remove the window guide on the latch side (not hinge) of the door. There is a 10mm bolt in the doorframe. Remove that and the weatherstripping in the frame. Pull the guide straight down and out of the hole in the door.
4. Removing the actuator: *Note: the screws are small and easy to lose.* On my 95 Accord there was a plastic panel over and above the actuator attached by one small screw. Remove this. Next, remove the three screws securing the actuator to the latch/lock assembly. Look the down the window channel on the top of the door is you can't see what youre doing. Should come right off; if you are repairing rather than replacing be careful pulling the acutator arm off of the metal rod it moves. Undo the plugs holding the wire to the door frame by pinching the tabs together and pushing them out.
4. Repairing. I took my actuator apart by removing the 4 screws. I connected it and the power lock back to the car and operate it to diagnose what was wrong. On both sides of the actuating arm w/ gear teeth on it inside there are rubber bump stops. The left one stops the arm when the door is unlocked and right stops it when it locks. The right one in my actuator was worn and no longer attached to the actuator case. Since I had a new actuator and little time I just replaced mine, but simply regluing or replacing the rubber with a DIY remedy could save a lot of money.
5. Replacing. Just install the new actuator in reverse order. Before putting the panel on make sure the lock is working. Open and close the door, lock and unlock the lock multiple times to make sure everything is working.
Disclaimer: I am not liable for any damage done to yourself or your car. Be safe and use logic.
*Note: It's a wise idea to disconnect your batttery. Everytime I unplug stuff in the doors I burn out the fuse that controls the interior dome and courtesy lights, headlight reminder chime, and intermittent windshield wiper operation.*
1. *This is easiest done with the window down.* Remove interior door panel by removing a) the plastic plug near the mirror area, b) the screw behind the door handle, and c) the screw in the hand "cup" near the controls. Remove the plastic triangle that covers the mirror wiring and nuts. There should be one metal clip and one plastic tab holding it on. Next, grab the bottom of the panel, slipping your fingers or a large flat screw driver (warning: may damage paint) and prying the panel towards you swiftly. There are ~10 plastic plugs along the bottom of the panel that lock into the door frame. Pull the bottom out towards you, leaving the lip in the window channel to act as a hinge and unplug all of the controls. Lift the panel straight up out of the window channel and over the lock tab.
2. *This might be an optional step, but it wasn't hard and made the overall install quicker.* To remove the window glass, reconnect the window control (it can be easily removed form the door panel and hung in place while you work) Roll the window up/down until the 2 bolts attaching it to the window motor arm are lined up in the two holes in the door frame. Remove them with a 10mm socket and 3" extension. Don't worry, the window will not fall down. Next, using two hands, pull the window straight up. As it gets closer to the top gently pull it out on the exterior side of the door. BE VERY CAREFUL, THIS IS NOT A CHEAP THING TO REPLACE. Installation is in reverse order.
3. *Also might be option depending on how much access you have to the actuator* Remove the window guide on the latch side (not hinge) of the door. There is a 10mm bolt in the doorframe. Remove that and the weatherstripping in the frame. Pull the guide straight down and out of the hole in the door.
4. Removing the actuator: *Note: the screws are small and easy to lose.* On my 95 Accord there was a plastic panel over and above the actuator attached by one small screw. Remove this. Next, remove the three screws securing the actuator to the latch/lock assembly. Look the down the window channel on the top of the door is you can't see what youre doing. Should come right off; if you are repairing rather than replacing be careful pulling the acutator arm off of the metal rod it moves. Undo the plugs holding the wire to the door frame by pinching the tabs together and pushing them out.
4. Repairing. I took my actuator apart by removing the 4 screws. I connected it and the power lock back to the car and operate it to diagnose what was wrong. On both sides of the actuating arm w/ gear teeth on it inside there are rubber bump stops. The left one stops the arm when the door is unlocked and right stops it when it locks. The right one in my actuator was worn and no longer attached to the actuator case. Since I had a new actuator and little time I just replaced mine, but simply regluing or replacing the rubber with a DIY remedy could save a lot of money.
5. Replacing. Just install the new actuator in reverse order. Before putting the panel on make sure the lock is working. Open and close the door, lock and unlock the lock multiple times to make sure everything is working.
