WhiteLitening

Here's the deal. I have 94,XXX miles on my GSR and oil is slowing starting to leak all around the block right at the oil pan/engine block junction. Obviously, replace the oil pan gasket! I have most of this repair figured out; remove splash shield, drop half of my 4-2-1 header to the cat, take off the 2 engine stiffener brackets, take the shield off between the oil pan and transmission, and finally, drop the oil pan by removing all 19 nuts/bolts. My question is, when installing the new gasket on to the oil pan while it is off, which side of the gasket (oil pan side or engine block side) do I put RTV silicone on and does it go all the away around the gasket or just in certain places? Also, how tight do all 19 nuts/bolts get torqued to when I reinstall the pan on the bottom of the engine block?
Thanks!

Spec R

Do you have access to the Factory service manual? Theres a sequence in which to tighten the bolts. Also, be weary of how much RTV you use. When I dropped my oil pan on my old car for the turbo drain line, i only used RTV on the corners, and the areas where the gasket has curved/strange contours.

Since the bolts are so small, their torque ratings are pretty low, which means they can work themselves lose over time. Be sure to use Blue threadlocker on them.

WhiteLitening

I did get access to the OEM factory service manual. It gives torque ratings and where to put the "liquid gasket" as they call it. It doesn't mention anything about using threadlocker, though. Was that listed in some other repair manual by any chance?

Spec R

no, but it doesnt hurt. when i pulled the pan, i was missing like 4-5 bolts/nuts

pslsnakes

I think the torque spec is 12lb ft, not sure on the sequence to tighten them, though.

Put the sealer on the required points. I reccomend Honda-Bond. That stuff is great.

Spec R

close, but its actually

12 N-m

9lb ft

WhiteLitening

There are two small washers that came out of the original gasket on the end closest to the flywheel. The new gasket did not include these, do these washers get reused?

WhiteLitening

So I did reuse two little washers that came out of the original gasket as there was a perfect cutout in the new gasket for them. I put everything back together, ran the car until it warmed up, and all be damn its leaking on the side closest to the transmission where those little washers are. Does anyone know if a new OEM gasket has those built into it and you just can't see it because there are completely encased in rubber? If so, my car now has 2 washers on each stud closest to the tranny, probably the reason it may be leaking. Any help is appreciated!

criticallistenp

First things first. Everyone knows how bad the OEM oil pan gasket is. I'd recommend using the gasket that works for me. I got it at :blue:myHondaHabit :blue:and it does a fabulous job of sealing the oil pan. Get the stud kit while you are there too. It helps and makes it easy to get an even torque on the oil pan flange.

Regarding HondaBond. Use it only to cover the seams where the oil pump and the main seal meet up with the engine block on the oil pan gasket mating surface. That means there will be two spots on each side of the block - two by the transmission and two by the timing belt sides. Just take your finger and cover the seam with a thin layer of Hondabond. Make sure the rest of the gasket surface is clean and put the gasket on with the oil pan. Follow the manual's proper torque sequence and you will have a great seal.

Remember: it is always important to check the flange on your oil pan to make sure that it is still flat. Often b-series oil pan leaks begin with an overtorqued nut that has bent the pan flange so that it is no longer flat. If your oil pan flange is not flat, no seal has a chance.

Using the myHondaHabit oil pan gasket will help because it supports the oil pan flange better than the nitrile/rubber gaskets do. Also, it is much more resistant to blow out and tearing at the alignment holes. It's just a better gasket and a better design. It's worth the cost just to have the peace of mind that you are not leaking oil. Don't be afraid to use your favorite search engine to learn more about it.

criticallistenp

I'm sure that the image you tried to provide would add much clarity, but I'm unable to see it. It shows as a broken link. I can say this with absolute surety: There are NO washers built into the oil pan gasket and there are NO washers between the oil pan and the block. The only washers at all near the oil pan are the washers that are built into the flanged nuts that tighten down on the few OEM oil pan studs. Additionally, there are flanged heads to the bolts needed to fasten the oil pan to the block. However, as far as independent washers are concerned, there are NONE. If you are not using flanged nuts and bolts, you will warp your oil pan at oem torque specifications. The additional area provided by the flanged part of the nut is necessary to disperse the torque load out on the oil pan flange so that it does not bend the oil pan by pulling the bolt hole inward while the rest of the flange remains still. If your oil pan is already warped at the bolt holes, it is too late. You will never get a good seal and therefore will need a new oil pan. If your oil pan flange is not warped, then you are fine, but I would recommend getting the myhondahabit oil pan gasket along with the stud kit. That setup worked for me when 5 OEM gaskets failed. Best of luck to you! Let me know if I can help you any further.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO9Vg5OWoQo