How do you install an oil pan gasket so that it does not leak?
06-30-2008, 12:51 AM
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How do you install an oil pan gasket so that it does not leak?
How do you install an oil pan gasket so that it does not leak?
I'm installing a new OEM acura oil pan and using a new OEM gasket. I'm going to use Permatex Sealant #2 (black color) instead of honda bond.
1. Do you put honda bond / sealant on both sides of the gasket? Or just apply it on top of the oil pan surface and then place the gasket on top of the oil pan?
2. Do you put honda bond / sealant all the way around the entire oil pan surface or only at the corners?
3. Will torquing it to 9 lb/ft cause the gasket to push out pass the oil pan lip?
I'm going to tighten the bolts according to the helm manual cross pattern.
I'm installing a new OEM acura oil pan and using a new OEM gasket. I'm going to use Permatex Sealant #2 (black color) instead of honda bond.
1. Do you put honda bond / sealant on both sides of the gasket? Or just apply it on top of the oil pan surface and then place the gasket on top of the oil pan?
2. Do you put honda bond / sealant all the way around the entire oil pan surface or only at the corners?
3. Will torquing it to 9 lb/ft cause the gasket to push out pass the oil pan lip?
I'm going to tighten the bolts according to the helm manual cross pattern.
06-30-2008, 08:36 AM
#2
Apathy Kills
First and foremost, be absolutely sure that all traces of the old sealant are gone. If there's a lump of old RTV sealant on the block at the mating surface for the pan, you'll have a leak in no time.
Modifying the method I used on my old GTi, I'd recommend that you:
1) Apply the hondabond sealant to both side of the gasket.
2) Lay the gasket down on the pan and align it with the bolt holes. Make sure it is absolutely flat, with no creases. Inspect the mating surface on the block; it must be completely free of old sealant.
3) Raise the pan up to the block; support it on a couple sections of 2x4 or whatever you've got lying around.
4) Start by hand threading each bolt in; finish using the cross pattern outlined in the Helms manual.
Modifying the method I used on my old GTi, I'd recommend that you:
1) Apply the hondabond sealant to both side of the gasket.
2) Lay the gasket down on the pan and align it with the bolt holes. Make sure it is absolutely flat, with no creases. Inspect the mating surface on the block; it must be completely free of old sealant.
3) Raise the pan up to the block; support it on a couple sections of 2x4 or whatever you've got lying around.
4) Start by hand threading each bolt in; finish using the cross pattern outlined in the Helms manual.
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06-30-2008, 01:05 PM
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Use brake cleaner to prepare the surfaces. Its all about clean. Read the directions on the Honda bond. Some sealers want u to alow the sealer to become tack dry before assembly. Some sealers want u to put sealer on all surfaces. Also go thin. Too much is bad.
06-30-2008, 10:20 PM
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Apathy Kills
Just barely, in my experience.
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07-06-2008, 08:00 AM
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What worked best for me is that after I dropped the pan, I did all my prep and made sure it was nice and clean. Applied my hondabond to the oil pan and then placed the gasket on top and lined it up nice and neat. I cleaned where it mates to the motor and made that nice and clean. I let the gasket dry to the pan overnight with a piece of plywood on top and some bricks for weight. After a good nights sleep I put a fresh application of hondabond on the topside of the gasket, re-installed the oilpan and torqued the bolts to spec. No problems since and I check it everytime I change the oil. Nice and dry like the day I bought it.
This might sound like overkill, but I cannot tell you how many times I went to repair a leak and then the fucker still kept leaking.
This might sound like overkill, but I cannot tell you how many times I went to repair a leak and then the fucker still kept leaking.
Last edited by ADRONICUS; 07-06-2008 at 08:02 AM.
08-02-2008, 01:01 PM
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First and foremost, be absolutely sure that all traces of the old sealant are gone. If there's a lump of old RTV sealant on the block at the mating surface for the pan, you'll have a leak in no time.
Modifying the method I used on my old GTi, I'd recommend that you:
1) Apply the hondabond sealant to both side of the gasket.
2) Lay the gasket down on the pan and align it with the bolt holes. Make sure it is absolutely flat, with no creases. Inspect the mating surface on the block; it must be completely free of old sealant.
3) Raise the pan up to the block; support it on a couple sections of 2x4 or whatever you've got lying around.
4) Start by hand threading each bolt in; finish using the cross pattern outlined in the Helms manual.
Modifying the method I used on my old GTi, I'd recommend that you:
1) Apply the hondabond sealant to both side of the gasket.
2) Lay the gasket down on the pan and align it with the bolt holes. Make sure it is absolutely flat, with no creases. Inspect the mating surface on the block; it must be completely free of old sealant.
3) Raise the pan up to the block; support it on a couple sections of 2x4 or whatever you've got lying around.
4) Start by hand threading each bolt in; finish using the cross pattern outlined in the Helms manual.
08-03-2008, 12:44 PM
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I did not apply sealant to both sides of the gasket. I applied the sealant only on one side, the side that touches the oil pan. I used permatex black sealant. No leaks.
torque bolts to 108 inch lbs. with a quarter inch torque wrench.
torque bolts to 108 inch lbs. with a quarter inch torque wrench.
Last edited by nonbox; 08-03-2008 at 12:46 PM.
08-03-2008, 07:54 PM
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if its a cork, just do tack on one side to hold it in place. I used to use aircraft sealant but lately i've just cleaned up my block surfaces well. Razor and brake clean. Tighten to spec using the bolt pattern and both gaskets have been fine since then.