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Old 01-01-08, 03:32 PM   #1
Integra94LS
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ABS Sensor Problem

I recently had my brake pads and rotors replaced on all four wheels and when I got my car back I noticed that about every other time or so I start my car my ABS sensor would pop on in the dash. In the past I had a ABS sensor replaced, but never had a problem again until this recent brake job. Not too sure what the problem is but probably just need a new ABS sensor. Does anyone have any recommendations of what this problem could be caused by? Its really weird because some of the time the ABS light will go on after i've recently ran my car and start it back up, but other times it won't do this. It just doesn't make sense i'm guessing the mechanic that did my brakes might have touched something causing this problem. I have a 94 integra LS and i've seen similar problems for integra's with ABS system brakes. Thanks to everyone for the help in advance and hope you know what this could be caused by.
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Old 01-02-08, 01:18 PM   #2
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I'm guessing the mechanic might have touched something. How long ago was it that you had it changed?
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Old 01-02-08, 03:36 PM   #3
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I'm guessing the mechanic might have touched something. How long ago was it that you had it changed?
yeah thats what i'm thinking too. it was about 2 and a half months ago or so, ever since then i've had this problem.
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Old 01-02-08, 03:59 PM   #4
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Does the ABS kick on out of no where? That would be a sign of a failure to a sensor or reluctor ring. The ABS light goes on at startup for a few seconds for a self check if thats what you're experiencing.
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Old 01-02-08, 04:11 PM   #5
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Does the ABS kick on out of no where? That would be a sign of a failure to a sensor or reluctor ring. The ABS light goes on at startup for a few seconds for a self check if thats what you're experiencing.
no, it'll come on when i start the car up and stay on until i shut it off. but this is randomly, it's not every startup that it does this, which is strange. yeah it doesn't just stay on for a few seconds, its on for the whole ride and sometimes the next few too. i know what your talking about though i see the ABS light come on at startup and then shut off, but this is different.
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Old 01-03-08, 03:19 PM   #6
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I had a similar problem on a 2000 G-SR sedan, my ABS light began coming on randomly, immediately after I changed the brake pads myself.

I figured I messed something up permanently... BUT when I changed my brakes the next time, I discovered that one of the metal backing plates which slide behind the brake pad during installation had slipped out of its correct spot (presumably during my installation).

When I put the new pads on i took special care to watch these backing plates, and a short time after the installation (not immediately) the ABS light went out for good.

DOnt know for sure that this was the problem... but it was an extremely suspicious circumstance.
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Old 01-03-08, 06:02 PM   #7
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It sounds about right, my brakes are squeaky (which is common) but they've been squeakin for a while now, almost as long as when the brake job was done.

I hope this is part of the problem with the ABS, even though they can squeak at anytime. Will the backing plates be a reason for the squeaking?

I think he might of touched something and didn't put it back right, especially with the ABS sensors they can be sensitive.
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Old 01-03-08, 07:42 PM   #8
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If your brakes are designed like mine, and have these shims/heat shields, they could be the squeaking culprit for 2 reasons.

1) I *think* the squeaking mechanism (that indicates when to change pads) is located on this shim... but i cannot imagine the shim contacting the rotor just by being improperly installed.

2) Second, and probably most likely, I just remembered that the brake pad of mine (which had the improperly installed shim) had very uneven wear since the shim didn't allow the brake pad to fully seat in its slots. It was like a 10 degree angle from the front side of the pad to the rear. I could see this causing some noise.

I hope your problem is this simple...

P.S. I had a front end collision on slick roads during the time when my ABS light was on, and nearly got arrested over it... and I blame the brakes. I would suggest looking at them asap.
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Old 01-14-08, 06:53 PM   #9
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Yeah i'm just going to get a diagnosis done on it to see what the problem is. Hopefully the scan will indicate what is causing the ABS light to come on almost every time I start my car up. This is really getting annoying and I hope theres nothing majorly wrong with it.
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Old 02-11-08, 05:03 PM   #10
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Ok I ended up getting is checked and the mechanic said its putting out a code 18 which has to do with the abs system. However, I'm not sure where to get it fixed at without going to the dealer and paying a fortune. Do you guys know where I could go for this in Connecticut?
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Old 02-11-08, 06:55 PM   #11
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Where in CT are you? I'm in the New Haven area. Maybe I can point you in the right direction.
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Old 02-11-08, 11:43 PM   #12
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I'm in East Hartford. Thanks that would be a great help.
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Old 10-28-09, 07:51 PM   #13
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any advice on this? this problem has reoccurred on me again. the abs light went out for a while and has now came back on with the same code... a while ago i saw someone post a abs related problem, i believe for the same code as me code 1 subcode 8, and it was a way of fixing it by replacing an o-ring in the abs system? i can't find the post anymore i think it was from last year or earlier. but that's my problem, the abs system's losing pressure so i may need a new o-ring to be replaced. but not definitely sure. feedback welcomed, thanks everyone
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Old 10-28-09, 11:03 PM   #14
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Well since the ABS is a magnet and pickup system, and you had the brakes recently done when it first popped up; I would check all the pickup on the wheels and see if there's any residual metal hanging onto the pickups. This would cause signal interference and throw a code.

The code 18 is for "accumulator gas leakage" Which if I remember correctly this refers to a gas cylinder mounted onto the ABS block, you can't miss it. It has 2 o-rings on it that can fail.

An older model, but same idea.
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Old 10-29-09, 09:32 AM   #15
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whoa, never knew that. good info.
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Old 10-29-09, 07:33 PM   #16
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Well since the ABS is a magnet and pickup system, and you had the brakes recently done when it first popped up; I would check all the pickup on the wheels and see if there's any residual metal hanging onto the pickups. This would cause signal interference and throw a code.

The code 18 is for "accumulator gas leakage" Which if I remember correctly this refers to a gas cylinder mounted onto the ABS block, you can't miss it. It has 2 o-rings on it that can fail.

An older model, but same idea.
What do you mean by the pickups? I've check all the wheel sensors and those seem to be fine.

Where on the accumulator are the 2 o-rings located and how would I go about replacing them? I'm thinking that's my problem because the code and when I start my car I hear a buzzing sound coming from the ABS system, due to it losing pressure. A user on here had the instructions on how to replace the o-rings but I can't find it
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Old 10-29-09, 08:51 PM   #17
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By pickups I mean the sensors.

I found an exploded view for you. The O-rings are part 22 and 23 in this picture, and the Accumulator is #2
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Old 10-29-09, 09:34 PM   #18
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By pickups I mean the sensors.

I found an exploded view for you. The O-rings are part 22 and 23 in this picture, and the Accumulator is #2
Awesome, thanks. That's really helpful. Only thing I'm worried about is the high pressure the Accumulator consists of. There's a warning label on it saying it. Any advice about safely taken it apart?
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Old 10-29-09, 10:02 PM   #19
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Yes, DON'T try to unscrew the bolt on top, and don't try to open it. It's bolted in place from the bottom. You can see the bolt in the picture(#4) that secures it.

The pressure is contained in the cylinder. It kind of acts like a shock absorber in the ABS. When the ABS pumps cycle, they run the pressurized brake fluid against the piston inside the accumulator, creating the system pressure.
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Old 10-29-09, 10:21 PM   #20
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Yeah I'm not going to touch the Accumulator's top bolt. Just unbolt it from the bottom one. After I replace the O-ring(s), bleed the brakes to let the air out the system, right? Not sure what else to do. Wish there was a full procedure for this.
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Old 10-29-09, 11:08 PM   #21
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That's pretty much it. There's an air bleed on the ABS block also, so don't forget that one.
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Old 10-29-09, 11:54 PM   #22
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Ok i'll remember that one. Not sure if I have to disconnect the brakes lines as well, pretty sure I read that on the earlier post about this. I'll have to right? Then bleed the brakes / ABS system afterwards
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Old 10-30-09, 12:10 AM   #23
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which one is the bleed on the abs block?
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Old 10-30-09, 09:07 AM   #24
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Yes, you will have to remove the lines, and remove the abs block from the car.. There's not enough room to get to the bolts.

It doesn't show in the picture, but I'm pretty sure there's a bleeder on the block also. I know they're different systems but my 99 has one.
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Old 10-30-09, 05:49 PM   #25
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Ok thanks, I'm going to have my mechanic take a look at it and give him the information. I'll keep you posted if I need some more help. I Appreciate the advice you gave me.
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Old 11-06-09, 10:13 PM   #26
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If you have your own inexpensive abs scan tools you can pull codes directly from the separate ABS computer. This will generally point you to the malfunction area.

My experience with diagnosing this Anti-lock system is that the wheel speed sensors are fragile and are easy to damage.

Often the abs codes that are set will be for a communication error from the wheel speed sensor. This means that the brake module is unable to see any wheel speed output at all.

If I have pulled a code for a wheel speed sensor failure, many times when I look at that sensor I find damage caused by ice, snow or other external forces such as road debris that has damaged that speed sensor or wiring connecting the sensor to the ABS system.

abs-scan-toolsThe replacement of an individual wheel speed sensor in most cases is very simple. The diagnosis of this system is also very simple if you have an ABS scan tool.

Unfortunately, this specialized tool is more expensive then the OBD scan tools which use the same basic technology.

ABS system diagnosis without the tool is very complicated and time-consuming.

We all hope that the Governments of the world will standardize the ABS diagnostic system just like they did with the check engine light diagnostics.

When you attempt your own DIY ABS diagnostics you can examine each wheel sensor and it’s wiring for signs of damage.

If you find a sensor or wires that are broken you can replace the assembly and then drive the vehicle to see if the light goes out.

The ABS system is a constant monitor system meaning the repair will be detected and the Abs light resets automatically. There is no manual reset or code clearing procedure.

In my humble opinion any time the airbag light, ABS warning light or check engine light comes on the car problem is worth looking into. Often I see motorists driving around with these safety system warning lights illuminated for extended periods of time.
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