Turbo question
11-14-2006, 10:21 AM
#1
My GS-R
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Turbo question
As of a week ago I knew nothing of turbos, other then the basic principle of their operation. Now after a week of research I have a much better understanding, but have a question I haven't been able to find an answer to yet.
I read this:
How much boost can my car run safely?
GSR-Stock Internals 6-8PSI.
Note: On a stock map sensor, the amount of boost you can run is limited due to the fact that it doesn't know what to do with it, and throws a CEL code.
OBD1-2 .75 kg/cm2 = 10.66 PSI
Now I have a 2000 GS-R so my question is, if I only want to run 8 psi of boost can I do this with my stock ECU and fuel system?
I would rather save the money of getting a FMU, injectors, and fuel pump and instead spend that money on a good boost controller (ie: A'pexi AVC-R), and good wastegate to make sure I don't go over 8 psi. After reading that article it seemed like my ECU and fuel system is designed to have a turbo just as long as I don't go over 8psi.
What do you guys say?
I read this:
How much boost can my car run safely?
GSR-Stock Internals 6-8PSI.
Note: On a stock map sensor, the amount of boost you can run is limited due to the fact that it doesn't know what to do with it, and throws a CEL code.
OBD1-2 .75 kg/cm2 = 10.66 PSI
Now I have a 2000 GS-R so my question is, if I only want to run 8 psi of boost can I do this with my stock ECU and fuel system?
I would rather save the money of getting a FMU, injectors, and fuel pump and instead spend that money on a good boost controller (ie: A'pexi AVC-R), and good wastegate to make sure I don't go over 8 psi. After reading that article it seemed like my ECU and fuel system is designed to have a turbo just as long as I don't go over 8psi.
What do you guys say?
11-14-2006, 10:27 AM
#2
got boost?
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psi is irrevlaent, is all about CFM's casue every trubo varries, so a large turbo at 8 psi will put signifigant more power, then a much smaller one..
your fuel rail is fine, u will need to upgrade the injectors, and getting a hp fuel pump isn't a bad idea... DO NOT use an FMU, that is how u blow motors, u should look into investing into some real engine management, like hondata, crome pro, AEM EMS...
There are a couple important things when doing a turbo car, one is your fueling(big enough injectors) 2. your Engine mangement, and 3. your tune.. those will be the determing factors in a lasting turbo system vs. one that will not last for all that long and not be reliable...
your fuel rail is fine, u will need to upgrade the injectors, and getting a hp fuel pump isn't a bad idea... DO NOT use an FMU, that is how u blow motors, u should look into investing into some real engine management, like hondata, crome pro, AEM EMS...
There are a couple important things when doing a turbo car, one is your fueling(big enough injectors) 2. your Engine mangement, and 3. your tune.. those will be the determing factors in a lasting turbo system vs. one that will not last for all that long and not be reliable...
11-14-2006, 11:25 AM
#3
Still here... sorta...
Realize that the information that you posted in bold speaks on your MAP sensor, not your ECU. The MAP sensor does not need to be upgraded if you're not going over ~10psi. If you do end up boosting more than that, you'll need to go with something like a GM 3BAR map sensor.
Again, MAP sensor is not your ECU.
Originally Posted by hondaswap
MAP/MAF sensors - All Honda's to the best of my knowledge use a MAP, or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor as opposed to the MAF, or Mass Air Flow sensor.
MAP detect pressure in the manifold and returns a voltage reading back to the ecu telling it how much air is coming in, what kind of vacuum/boost it is in, and how much load it is seeing. It's an amazing little thing. All the fuel and ignition maps are based off this one sensor's reading more than anything else. It tells the ecu what table to use. I will explain this in more detail later. For the sake of information, the MAF sensors act similarly, but instead of measuring pressure, they measure volume. The volume of air coming in is then translated to the ecu by voltage, just like the MAP.
MAP detect pressure in the manifold and returns a voltage reading back to the ecu telling it how much air is coming in, what kind of vacuum/boost it is in, and how much load it is seeing. It's an amazing little thing. All the fuel and ignition maps are based off this one sensor's reading more than anything else. It tells the ecu what table to use. I will explain this in more detail later. For the sake of information, the MAF sensors act similarly, but instead of measuring pressure, they measure volume. The volume of air coming in is then translated to the ecu by voltage, just like the MAP.
11-14-2006, 01:07 PM
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Stock MAP sensor cutoff is ~11.2 psi.
You are getting too caught up on psi. Don't waste your money on a snazzy boost controller you won't even use. Get a decent wastegate with the proper spring in it and you will be fine.
Like GSSR said, psi doesn't mean anything. You can make 300+ whp on stock internals with a decent tune whether it takes 18 psi on a dinky turbo or 6 psi on a huge turbo.
You are getting too caught up on psi. Don't waste your money on a snazzy boost controller you won't even use. Get a decent wastegate with the proper spring in it and you will be fine.
Like GSSR said, psi doesn't mean anything. You can make 300+ whp on stock internals with a decent tune whether it takes 18 psi on a dinky turbo or 6 psi on a huge turbo.
11-15-2006, 06:50 AM
#8
My GS-R
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Thanks alot guys.
westcoaststyle: I was confusing what that article was talking about between my MAP sensor and my ECU. Thanks for setting me straight.
GSSR: I'm looking into Crome Pro for my EMS and need to do research on the whole OBD2 conversion to an ODB1 and what all this "chiping" talk is about.
Schmoo: Taking your advice about the wastegate, and not wasting money on an unnecessary boost controller. From my understanding the spring on the wastegate determines where it opens based on the psi. So since I won't have a boost controller to adjust where my wastegate opens when I tune it, do I buy a couple different sized springs?
westcoaststyle: I was confusing what that article was talking about between my MAP sensor and my ECU. Thanks for setting me straight.
GSSR: I'm looking into Crome Pro for my EMS and need to do research on the whole OBD2 conversion to an ODB1 and what all this "chiping" talk is about.
Schmoo: Taking your advice about the wastegate, and not wasting money on an unnecessary boost controller. From my understanding the spring on the wastegate determines where it opens based on the psi. So since I won't have a boost controller to adjust where my wastegate opens when I tune it, do I buy a couple different sized springs?
11-15-2006, 07:00 AM
#9
Still here... sorta...
Sure thing. 
With regard to the WG spring, they are rated for a certain psi/bar based on tension. They're not the easiest thing to pop in and out so I'd just get one and stick with it until you're ready to get something with more tension and/or get a boost controller.
With regard to the WG spring, they are rated for a certain psi/bar based on tension. They're not the easiest thing to pop in and out so I'd just get one and stick with it until you're ready to get something with more tension and/or get a boost controller.
Last edited by westcoaststyle; 11-15-2006 at 01:03 PM.
11-15-2006, 09:27 AM
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