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Old 05-21-06, 06:17 PM   #1
gtpblax11
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thnx...i looked in the manual too n saw that n did it honestly 20 minutes after i posted this....but thnx for the response, really appreciate it
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Old 08-09-06, 11:49 PM   #2
blackTEG99
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stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
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Old 08-09-06, 11:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackTEG99 View Post
stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
there wouldn't be a point to running anything more than 2.5
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Old 08-10-06, 12:02 AM   #4
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stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
A 3" would be too big given your current mods.

Ideally, you'd want to maintaining the same diameter as the output from your header through the cat to the muffler outlet.

So if the DC header terminates at about 60mm, a 2.5" mandrel-bent setup would work nicely.

If you go custom built, I'd recommend the longest perforated-core resonator that will fit between the cat and the point at which you're forced to turn right and go around the petrol tank.

And unless you want to be on a first-name basis with every law enforcement officer in your city, definitely stay away from the canister-style or N1-style mufflers.

Welcome to the board.
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Old 08-09-06, 11:56 PM   #5
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thats what i figured..3 inch is way big, i was just offered a deal on it for cheap and its a nice exhaust, but i think i'll just order the skunk2 or greddy
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Old 08-10-06, 12:08 AM   #6
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well the law enforcement thing, thats always been a problem since i had my crx with ls/ vtec turbo swap, they didnt like that 3 inch to well. there already catching on to my new car, but yea im just gonna go for the skunk 2 thanks for the help
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Old 08-10-06, 11:49 AM   #7
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i just got my front lip in the mail (for my 99 gsr) i put it on the bumper to test fit it, it fits great, but there's these 4 silver S shaped brackets and i have no clue where they go, let me know where they go if anyone knos
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Old 08-19-06, 11:12 AM   #8
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re.1986/88 Valve guide seals

I purchased a cyl. head gasket set for renovations to that of my 86 Integra only now I will adapt a 88 cyl. head. My question is, will the older-type seals function to standard? or shall I procure the newer-type seals. The Integra is basic stock and will be driven daily and mostly on the freeway. I appreciate any information on the subject, thanx.
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Old 08-22-06, 01:26 PM   #9
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I purchased a cyl. head gasket set for renovations to that of my 86 Integra only now I will adapt a 88 cyl. head. My question is, will the older-type seals function to standard?
The gaskets and seals should be the same, however the 86-87 vacuum advance distributor may not bolt to the 88-89 (electronic advance distributor) head.
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Old 08-20-06, 05:40 PM   #10
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in need of some help. I just got my new coil overs in, and I am starting to take the old setup off, except for i ran into a problem, on the back, the bolt that holds the strut fork to the swingarm , the head broke off, i tried to twist it out from the other side but i broke 2 ratchets already, and i cant pound it out, anyone have any suggestions.?
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Old 08-22-06, 01:07 PM   #11
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Quick Question? My Turn signals on my Integra (95 LS) aren't working. I'm not getting no response or nothing when I flip the turn lever. I checked the fuse box to see if it was a faulty fuse but there's no fuse for the turn signals. Any idea on what's wrong with it?
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Old 08-22-06, 01:16 PM   #12
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Quick Question? My Turn signals on my Integra (95 LS) aren't working. I'm not getting no response or nothing when I flip the turn lever. I checked the fuse box to see if it was a faulty fuse but there's no fuse for the turn signals. Any idea on what's wrong with it?
Welcome to H-A.net!

There is a fuse for everything electrical, but it may not be a dedicated circuit. I don't have my manual handy so I can't point you in the correct direction, but start looking for anything else that may be not working. Look for other low-voltage lights, wipers, radio, etc. Someone here can probably tell you which circuit it is, but if you don't get a reply, post it as it's own thread in the main Integra forum.

Do they blink if the hazard button is pushed? Are the bulbs good? Have you taken a multimeter to see if there is a current reaching the bulb?
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Old 08-22-06, 01:24 PM   #13
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Yeah the bulbs are good and everthing. I pushed the Hazard light one time and damn thing flashed once then went dead....no more flashing. I asked one of my homiez & he was like its probably the Flasher plug that blew out, he said itz a whole seperate plug thats right next to the fuse box, I'm just asking here cuz I wanted a second opinion to see if that'z most likely the reason. But thatnks 4 the reply though.
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Old 08-25-06, 01:33 PM   #14
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coil over problem please help

ok im putting my coil overs on today, and the bottom bolt on the back strut that hold the strut fork to the swing arm i cannot get them off, i've tried everything i can think of, ratchet with breaker bar,impact gun.. anyone else had this problem and what did u do? please help
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Old 08-25-06, 05:06 PM   #15
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When that happens, if penetrating lube and a good impact gun fail, I cut it off.
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Old 09-03-06, 09:24 PM   #16
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pinstripe

ok i have a 94 integra ls with a horrible double pinstripe down it. i have been told it is painted but the research said it is not anyone have a clue how to get the damn thing off???? pleasse PM me with the answer also
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Old 09-03-06, 11:41 PM   #17
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1996 integra breakdown

i was driving my 96 integra down the highway and my engine died. a few people i spoke to suggested it may be a problem with timing chain. i really don't know much about cars anybody with some info in this area would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-05-06, 02:01 AM   #18
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ok i have a 94 integra ls with a horrible double pinstripe down it.
They are dealer options and are not painted over. Try to scrape them off with your fingernail or use a hair dryer to soften it and try again... they don't come off easily.
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a few people i spoke to suggested it may be a problem with timing chain.
Integras have timing belts, not chains. Timing chains rarely brake, timing belts will if not changed as per the owner's manual.
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Old 09-11-06, 09:16 PM   #19
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Does anyone have a full proff way of keeping moisture out of the headlights/tail lights?
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Old 09-11-06, 09:26 PM   #20
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Does anyone have a full proff way of keeping moisture out of the headlights/tail lights?
Replace the taillight gaskets.
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Old 09-12-06, 10:22 AM   #21
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Timing Belt - Again

Can something be gained by inspecting the timing belt as described in the '90-93 shop manual, given the car has less than 70K at over 15 years, and parked most of that time?

Background, for anyone interested:

1990 Integra with under 70K miles, normal maintenance for the first 6 years, then used as second car for 3-4. After that, engine run only every few weeks. Parked for the last two years.

Needs a thorough going over and a few simple things (3/4 exhaust, rusted out hard line in the p/s system, stiff shift linkage, fluids, filters, plugs etc.) Already have $300-400 in parts on order. Ideally I would like to drive the car and find out if it is worth more effort, either as a second car or a toy.

Belt, tensioner, and pump would be another $300, I believe. With more obvious repairs, I am not anxious to pay that or start replacing parts on an engine which seems to be running well, but - the car is over 15 years old, and any other car I was familiar w. reached the recommended replacement mileage for a new belt well b/f 6-8 years...

a) run not walk to the dealer for a new belt, tensioner and waterpump?

or,

b) drive it for a few weeks to see what else may fall off?

Comments, suggestions and snide remarks welcome...
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Old 01-12-07, 01:50 AM   #22
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Removing headlight bulb from 93 Integra

Earlier tonight I spent 30 minutes trying to figure out how to remove the bulb from the harness. I got the bulb out of the housing but I couldn't see for the life of me how to remove the bulb from the harness. It looks like there's a clip holding the bulb but I didn't see any way to lift or remove it without potentially breaking something. Also didn't help that it was dark.
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Old 01-16-07, 10:01 AM   #23
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Earlier tonight I spent 30 minutes trying to figure out how to remove the bulb from the harness. I got the bulb out of the housing but I couldn't see for the life of me how to remove the bulb from the harness. It looks like there's a clip holding the bulb but I didn't see any way to lift or remove it without potentially breaking something. Also didn't help that it was dark.
Did you try pulling it straight out?
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Old 05-22-07, 05:20 PM   #24
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New poster here

I know this is an age old question with the answer based on personal preference, but I wanted to ask which would be better for my 96 GSR: CAI or SRI?

Price is not a deciding factor, so whichever is proved to be more effective, im willing to purchase.

Also, does anyone recommend any specific brands? Injen, K&N, and AEM come to my mind and im sure theres more out there...

Thanks again
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Old 05-22-07, 06:32 PM   #25
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New poster here

I know this is an age old question with the answer based on personal preference, but I wanted to ask which would be better for my 96 GSR: CAI or SRI?

Price is not a deciding factor, so whichever is proved to be more effective, im willing to purchase.

Also, does anyone recommend any specific brands? Injen, K&N, and AEM come to my mind and im sure theres more out there...

Thanks again
Read the thread posted in the Integra FAQ.
This topic has been covered so many times...it's absurd.

I'm a fan of the SRI, simply for the fact that you don't run the risk of water ingestion and hydrolocking.

And as far as intake temp is concerned, the difference at speed is nearly nonexistant.

As far as brands go, if you're in a state that follows California emissions, you will need a CARB exempt intake (which means Injen or AEM). I would recommend either brand regardless, mostly because it's the quality of the air filter that matters most.
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Old 09-12-06, 01:46 PM   #26
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The recommended replacement timetable for the timing belt is 95K miles or 6 years, whichever comes first.

But the fact of the matter is, there aren't that many truly predictable warning signs for timing belt failure.

You can remove the timing belt cover and look for the fiberglass reinforcing bands and check the condition of the belt teeth, but at this point, the belt is overdue on all counts.

All of the B-series motors are interference design, meaning that pistons and valves share the same space at different times during the 4-stroke cycle.

So when the belt fails, it is highly likely that pistons will hit (and bend) valves, requiring a far more expensive repair effort. Worse case scenario, you could be looking at replacing the motor altogether.

Even if you decide to sell the car in a year, I would go ahead and replace the timing belt. Since the car has been sitting for 2 years and it is long overdue for replacement anyway, I would consider the $300 spent as an investment in the health of the motor.
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Old 09-12-06, 03:43 PM   #27
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Even if you decide to sell the car in a year, I would go ahead and replace the timing belt. Since the car has been sitting for 2 years and it is long overdue for replacement anyway, I would consider the $300 spent as an investment in the health of the motor.
Thanks. I do understand what happens when the pistons kiss the valves <chuckle>. I actually came across the section on inspecting the belt while looking into the replacement procedure, and I was wondering if anyone actually does that on this car, or what to look for. The manual only mentions oil soaking (which I have personally never seen) and inspecting the teeth which AFAIK will only tell you if the belt is likely to slip, and not if it is about to break...

So be it. Any experience with the SKF kit for the Integra, Beck Arnley, or other aftermarket timing belts and waterpumps?

TIA
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Old 09-12-06, 06:59 PM   #28
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Thanks. I do understand what happens when the pistons kiss the valves <chuckle>. I actually came across the section on inspecting the belt while looking into the replacement procedure, and I was wondering if anyone actually does that on this car...

So be it. Any experience with the SKF kit for the Integra, Beck Arnley, or other aftermarket timing belts and waterpumps?

TIA
When it came time to replace the belt on my 97 LS, I didn't bother with inspecting the belt before hand. I bought the car with 92K miles in 2001; I knew it was going to be an necessary expense.
In fact, I used the cost of the service to bargain the sale price down by about 10%.

Also, I went with OEM Honda parts, partly out of convenience and also a healthy amount of skepticism for the competition. Since it's a mission-critical set of parts and they are rated for a very long duty cycle, IMHO it's not a place to cut costs.

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Old 09-12-06, 11:02 PM   #29
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Also, I went with OEM Honda parts
Thanks again,
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Old 09-12-06, 08:12 PM   #30
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Would a Newer integra body kit(1994+) fit on a 1991 integra?

-- Asked elsewhere in forum and redirected as appropriate. --

NOTE: Please direct all replies regarding this post to the link below:
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=249200

Thanks... TheOtherDave™

Last edited by TheOtherDave™; 09-12-06 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Added link to duplicate thread in App/Cos: Showroom
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