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  1. #121
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackTEG99 View Post
    stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
    there wouldn't be a point to running anything more than 2.5
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  3. #123
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    thats what i figured..3 inch is way big, i was just offered a deal on it for cheap and its a nice exhaust, but i think i'll just order the skunk2 or greddy

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackTEG99 View Post
    stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
    A 3" would be too big given your current mods.

    Ideally, you'd want to maintaining the same diameter as the output from your header through the cat to the muffler outlet.

    So if the DC header terminates at about 60mm, a 2.5" mandrel-bent setup would work nicely.

    If you go custom built, I'd recommend the longest perforated-core resonator that will fit between the cat and the point at which you're forced to turn right and go around the petrol tank.

    And unless you want to be on a first-name basis with every law enforcement officer in your city, definitely stay away from the canister-style or N1-style mufflers.

    Welcome to the board.
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  5. #125
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    well the law enforcement thing, thats always been a problem since i had my crx with ls/ vtec turbo swap, they didnt like that 3 inch to well. there already catching on to my new car, but yea im just gonna go for the skunk 2 thanks for the help

  6. #126
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    i just got my front lip in the mail (for my 99 gsr) i put it on the bumper to test fit it, it fits great, but there's these 4 silver S shaped brackets and i have no clue where they go, let me know where they go if anyone knos
    so far: skunk2 I/M,dc header,aem intake,short throw,15 in. konigs,65 shot,n-1 muffler,nology plug wires,type R valve cover,front lip,skunk 2 coilovers

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
    On the contrary Dave, I just made a thread about this and there seems to be no harm in removing the heat shield. Since it is from under the car, I am assuming this is the heat shield around the catalytic converter. If that is indeed the case, then the heat shield is there to keep the cat hot so that the reactions taking place inside it take place more efficiently. Removing it at worst would harm your emissions.

    Tack welding it would only be a temporary fix, when you consider that the heat shield is rattling because it is corroding. It can (and eventually will) just corrode more in spite of the welds and just start rattling again.

    I would suggest taking it off and just be careful if you need to park in tall grass that it doesn't light the grass on fire.
    I try to keep debates out of this... but I only suggested tack welding assuming that the original weld had failed.

    Obviously, if the heat shield is rotting away and you can't find a viable surface to weld, replacing or removing the heat shield would be an optimal solution.

    As you noted, heat is a critical part of maintaining catalyst efficiency. So, I would not remove the heat shield on a pollution-controlled car, particularly in the Soviet Republic of California..

    Who knows what kind of tech you'll encounter at your next smog check? IMO, it would be a waste to fail the visual inspection simply because your heat shield is missing.

    Moving on...
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  8. #128
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    re.1986/88 Valve guide seals

    I purchased a cyl. head gasket set for renovations to that of my 86 Integra only now I will adapt a 88 cyl. head. My question is, will the older-type seals function to standard? or shall I procure the newer-type seals. The Integra is basic stock and will be driven daily and mostly on the freeway. I appreciate any information on the subject, thanx.
    BMSMMI

  9. #129
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    in need of some help. I just got my new coil overs in, and I am starting to take the old setup off, except for i ran into a problem, on the back, the bolt that holds the strut fork to the swingarm , the head broke off, i tried to twist it out from the other side but i broke 2 ratchets already, and i cant pound it out, anyone have any suggestions.?
    so far: skunk2 I/M,dc header,aem intake,short throw,15 in. konigs,65 shot,n-1 muffler,nology plug wires,type R valve cover,front lip,skunk 2 coilovers

  10. #130
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    Quick Question? My Turn signals on my Integra (95 LS) aren't working. I'm not getting no response or nothing when I flip the turn lever. I checked the fuse box to see if it was a faulty fuse but there's no fuse for the turn signals. Any idea on what's wrong with it?

  11. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by AcuRa_Man View Post
    Quick Question? My Turn signals on my Integra (95 LS) aren't working. I'm not getting no response or nothing when I flip the turn lever. I checked the fuse box to see if it was a faulty fuse but there's no fuse for the turn signals. Any idea on what's wrong with it?
    Welcome to H-A.net!

    There is a fuse for everything electrical, but it may not be a dedicated circuit. I don't have my manual handy so I can't point you in the correct direction, but start looking for anything else that may be not working. Look for other low-voltage lights, wipers, radio, etc. Someone here can probably tell you which circuit it is, but if you don't get a reply, post it as it's own thread in the main Integra forum.

    Do they blink if the hazard button is pushed? Are the bulbs good? Have you taken a multimeter to see if there is a current reaching the bulb?

  12. #132
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    Yeah the bulbs are good and everthing. I pushed the Hazard light one time and damn thing flashed once then went dead....no more flashing. I asked one of my homiez & he was like its probably the Flasher plug that blew out, he said itz a whole seperate plug thats right next to the fuse box, I'm just asking here cuz I wanted a second opinion to see if that'z most likely the reason. But thatnks 4 the reply though.

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMSMMI View Post
    I purchased a cyl. head gasket set for renovations to that of my 86 Integra only now I will adapt a 88 cyl. head. My question is, will the older-type seals function to standard?
    The gaskets and seals should be the same, however the 86-87 vacuum advance distributor may not bolt to the 88-89 (electronic advance distributor) head.
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  14. #134
    slow gsr blackTEG99's Avatar
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    coil over problem please help

    ok im putting my coil overs on today, and the bottom bolt on the back strut that hold the strut fork to the swing arm i cannot get them off, i've tried everything i can think of, ratchet with breaker bar,impact gun.. anyone else had this problem and what did u do? please help
    so far: skunk2 I/M,dc header,aem intake,short throw,15 in. konigs,65 shot,n-1 muffler,nology plug wires,type R valve cover,front lip,skunk 2 coilovers

  15. #135
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    When that happens, if penetrating lube and a good impact gun fail, I cut it off.
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  16. #136
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    pinstripe

    ok i have a 94 integra ls with a horrible double pinstripe down it. i have been told it is painted but the research said it is not anyone have a clue how to get the damn thing off???? pleasse PM me with the answer also

  17. #137
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    1996 integra breakdown

    i was driving my 96 integra down the highway and my engine died. a few people i spoke to suggested it may be a problem with timing chain. i really don't know much about cars anybody with some info in this area would be greatly appreciated.

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by nruff1104 View Post
    ok i have a 94 integra ls with a horrible double pinstripe down it.
    They are dealer options and are not painted over. Try to scrape them off with your fingernail or use a hair dryer to soften it and try again... they don't come off easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by RB42069 View Post
    a few people i spoke to suggested it may be a problem with timing chain.
    Integras have timing belts, not chains. Timing chains rarely brake, timing belts will if not changed as per the owner's manual.
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  19. #139
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    Does anyone have a full proff way of keeping moisture out of the headlights/tail lights?

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by jashby79 View Post
    Does anyone have a full proff way of keeping moisture out of the headlights/tail lights?
    Replace the taillight gaskets.

  21. #141
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    Timing Belt - Again

    Can something be gained by inspecting the timing belt as described in the '90-93 shop manual, given the car has less than 70K at over 15 years, and parked most of that time?

    Background, for anyone interested:

    1990 Integra with under 70K miles, normal maintenance for the first 6 years, then used as second car for 3-4. After that, engine run only every few weeks. Parked for the last two years.

    Needs a thorough going over and a few simple things (3/4 exhaust, rusted out hard line in the p/s system, stiff shift linkage, fluids, filters, plugs etc.) Already have $300-400 in parts on order. Ideally I would like to drive the car and find out if it is worth more effort, either as a second car or a toy.

    Belt, tensioner, and pump would be another $300, I believe. With more obvious repairs, I am not anxious to pay that or start replacing parts on an engine which seems to be running well, but - the car is over 15 years old, and any other car I was familiar w. reached the recommended replacement mileage for a new belt well b/f 6-8 years...

    a) run not walk to the dealer for a new belt, tensioner and waterpump?

    or,

    b) drive it for a few weeks to see what else may fall off?

    Comments, suggestions and snide remarks welcome...

  22. #142
    Apathy Kills TheOtherDave™'s Avatar
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    The recommended replacement timetable for the timing belt is 95K miles or 6 years, whichever comes first.

    But the fact of the matter is, there aren't that many truly predictable warning signs for timing belt failure.

    You can remove the timing belt cover and look for the fiberglass reinforcing bands and check the condition of the belt teeth, but at this point, the belt is overdue on all counts.

    All of the B-series motors are interference design, meaning that pistons and valves share the same space at different times during the 4-stroke cycle.

    So when the belt fails, it is highly likely that pistons will hit (and bend) valves, requiring a far more expensive repair effort. Worse case scenario, you could be looking at replacing the motor altogether.

    Even if you decide to sell the car in a year, I would go ahead and replace the timing belt. Since the car has been sitting for 2 years and it is long overdue for replacement anyway, I would consider the $300 spent as an investment in the health of the motor.
    :: - supermod - but who gives a shit?

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  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™ View Post
    Even if you decide to sell the car in a year, I would go ahead and replace the timing belt. Since the car has been sitting for 2 years and it is long overdue for replacement anyway, I would consider the $300 spent as an investment in the health of the motor.
    Thanks. I do understand what happens when the pistons kiss the valves <chuckle>. I actually came across the section on inspecting the belt while looking into the replacement procedure, and I was wondering if anyone actually does that on this car, or what to look for. The manual only mentions oil soaking (which I have personally never seen) and inspecting the teeth which AFAIK will only tell you if the belt is likely to slip, and not if it is about to break...

    So be it. Any experience with the SKF kit for the Integra, Beck Arnley, or other aftermarket timing belts and waterpumps?

    TIA

  24. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMI View Post
    Thanks. I do understand what happens when the pistons kiss the valves <chuckle>. I actually came across the section on inspecting the belt while looking into the replacement procedure, and I was wondering if anyone actually does that on this car...

    So be it. Any experience with the SKF kit for the Integra, Beck Arnley, or other aftermarket timing belts and waterpumps?

    TIA
    When it came time to replace the belt on my 97 LS, I didn't bother with inspecting the belt before hand. I bought the car with 92K miles in 2001; I knew it was going to be an necessary expense.
    In fact, I used the cost of the service to bargain the sale price down by about 10%.

    Also, I went with OEM Honda parts, partly out of convenience and also a healthy amount of skepticism for the competition. Since it's a mission-critical set of parts and they are rated for a very long duty cycle, IMHO it's not a place to cut costs.

    :: - supermod - but who gives a shit?

    :: HAN Integra FAQ: If, by some miracle, yours hasn't been stolen... check it out!

  25. #145
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    Would a Newer integra body kit(1994+) fit on a 1991 integra?

    -- Asked elsewhere in forum and redirected as appropriate. --

    NOTE: Please direct all replies regarding this post to the link below:
    http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=249200

    Thanks... TheOtherDave™
    Last edited by TheOtherDave™; 09-12-06 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Added link to duplicate thread in App/Cos: Showroom

  26. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™ View Post
    Also, I went with OEM Honda parts
    Thanks again,

  27. #147
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    98 Integ Gsr

    I recently failed my smog test, the check engine light wasnt illuminated at all and i failed the test, all emmision was good but that OBD self check failed, i was told the smog checks for 7 monitors for the computer but i only have 4 monitors working. what do i do??

  28. #148
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    I cannot seem to locate any gears (incl. reverse) on my manual 95 integra ls. Would a problem like this usually be associated with my shifting cables? If so, can anyone provide a remedy?

  29. #149
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    I have a 1990 Integra GS that I know doesn't have the stock engine in it (we bought it with a salvage title from theft), what is the easiest way to find out what engine is in it? I can't manage to find the title (stuff happens when you have a car for 14 years).

    Also, under braking it will pull fairly hard to the left. The person who we loaned it to for a while seemed to think it was the master cylinder for some reason, does this make sense and how difficult would it be to replace or rebuild it?

  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigsizejordan23 View Post
    Would a Newer integra body kit(1994+) fit on a 1991 integra?[/I]
    No. The bodies are far too different for them to work. If a part is marked 94+, in most cases it will not fit a 90-93 car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pilosopo View Post
    I recently failed my smog test, the check engine light wasnt illuminated at all and i failed the test, all emmision was good but that OBD self check failed, i was told the smog checks for 7 monitors for the computer but i only have 4 monitors working. what do i do??
    We need more details, including the year and model of your car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Condor018 View Post
    I cannot seem to locate any gears (incl. reverse) on my manual 95 integra ls. Would a problem like this usually be associated with my shifting cables? If so, can anyone provide a remedy?
    Integras do not have shift cables, they have a solid shift linkage under the car. Check the roll pin that connects that rod to the trans, as well as the bushings in the shifter and the shift rod.
    Quote Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
    I have a 1990 Integra GS that I know doesn't have the stock engine in it (we bought it with a salvage title from theft), what is the easiest way to find out what engine is in it?
    Look at the engine, then down to the exhaust manifold. Look to the left, where the engine mates to the trans... there will be a flat with the engine code and serial number on it. You probably have another B18A1 in there, as that is the cheapest engine you can fit in that chassis.
    Quote Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
    Also, under braking it will pull fairly hard to the left. The person who we loaned it to for a while seemed to think it was the master cylinder for some reason
    YMost likely you have a frozen brake caliper on the right side, check them.
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