-
Lower balljoint problems
I need help getting the ball joint out of the hub. I have tried hammering it out but it doesn't budge. I just tried using the attachments and a vice like it says in the service manual and the vice snapped in two, so I am out of ideas.
The balljoint is bad and I can't tighten the nut to cotter pin it, so I need to replace it but it won't move at all. The service manual also says that there is a 40mm circlip, but I can't find it. Does anyone have any suggestions to get this stubborn son of a bitch off so I can put my car back together?
-
WHAT OK YEAH!
you try using a ball joint splitter?
I want to be a Wal-Mart Mechanic
-

Originally Posted by
teg92
you try using a ball joint splitter?
I don't need to separate it, but remove it completely and put a new one in. It won't come out at all.
-
I got it out. I had to drill it out for the most part and then have my way with the hammer.
Now I just need to rebuild the axle that had a dislodged CV joint because of the lower ball joint separating.
-
WHAT OK YEAH!

Originally Posted by
Shmoo
I got it out. I had to drill it out for the most part and then have my way with the hammer.
Now I just need to rebuild the axle that had a dislodged CV joint because of the lower ball joint separating.
that must of been fun
I want to be a Wal-Mart Mechanic
-

Originally Posted by
teg92
that must of been fun
Oh yeah. The car was in the middle of the street with the lower balljoint popped out, so I had to pull the axle, pop the balljoint back in and then push the car back into my garage. Not fun at all, but at least everything is up and running and I have just completed my first successful clutch job.
-
Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
Shmoo
Oh yeah. The car was in the middle of the street with the lower balljoint popped out, so I had to pull the axle, pop the balljoint back in and then push the car back into my garage. Not fun at all, but at least everything is up and running and I have just completed my first successful clutch job.

How did the clutch job go other than that little problem? How long did it take you, besides the balljoint thing? What kinds of tools did you end up using?
Two more weeks and I'll be doing my clutch.
-

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
How did the clutch job go other than that little problem? How long did it take you, besides the balljoint thing? What kinds of tools did you end up using?
The clutch job was worse than the piston ring job. 
The worst part was a tossup between 4 people trying to get the tranny back on the block or when my balljoint popped off in the middle of the street. The whole job took about 1 full working day since I didn't really use any air tools, didn't have much experience or much help with the tedious shit. But I might add that the spring pin for the shift linkage came out easier than ever. 
I just used basic hand tools. Lots of sockets, wrenches, etc. The hammer was one of the most useful tools I used though.
-
Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
Shmoo
The clutch job was worse than the piston ring job.
The worst part was a tossup between 4 people trying to get the tranny back on the block or when my balljoint popped off in the middle of the street. The whole job took about 1 full working day since I didn't really use any air tools, didn't have much experience or much help with the tedious shit. But I might add that the spring pin for the shift linkage came out easier than ever.
I just used basic hand tools. Lots of sockets, wrenches, etc. The hammer was one of the most useful tools I used though.

Cool man! Glad you got it in and working! How do you like the clutch so far? Peddle feel and engagement? How's the new flywheel? Sorry for all the questions, just curious is all.
-

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
Cool man! Glad you got it in and working! How do you like the clutch so far? Peddle feel and engagement? How's the new flywheel? Sorry for all the questions, just curious is all.
The clutch is a little stiffer than stock, which isn't too bad. The engagement point is a little low to the floor for my tastes, even though I adjusted the pedal as far out as it could go. I'll get used to it, though. The flywheel isn't really as noticable as I though it would be. I haven't stalled yet and it is about the same, drivability wise. It revs up and down quicker and throttle response is better, but not as much as I expected.
-
I <3 Boost
I used a balljoint separator to try and separate it from the LCA to replace an axle...all the separator did was ruin my balljoint...they are worthless. So now I have to replace the balljoint and axle.
2011 WR Blue Mica Subaru Impreza WRX - AEM.CobbTuning.FastMotorsports.Grimmspeed.Invidia.Kartb oy.MR.TorquedPerformance.WorkSuperWheels
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
-

Originally Posted by
Master Yodub
I used a balljoint separator to try and separate it from the LCA to replace an axle...all the separator did was ruin my balljoint...they are worthless. So now I have to replace the balljoint and axle.
Yeah, I did that too. What do you suggest for removing balljoints instead? Everyone should know that knocking on them with a hammer until they drop out is completely bogus. It has never worked for me, not even once and I have done 4 axle jobs, 3 suspension jobs, and 1 clutch job.
The problem was that the ball joint is 10 years old, seized into the hub, with a ripped boot spewing grease. I wouldn't have had to replace it but it just spun when I put the nut back on, so I couldn't get it far enough up to put the cotter pin in.
I ghetto rigged it and put something between the hub and the nut to keep it tight, but it failed not more than 10 feet from my driveway. Not fun at all. 
This is my lesson to not ghetto rig any more since I could have been going fast when it failed and it would have cost me a new suspension, body work, and possibly my car after losing control.
-
Moderator
tore the boot on one of the lower balljoints with a seperator last fall/winter, when i was pulling that shit apart to press in a new wheel bearing. needless to say, the thing spewed out its grease, and i had no choice but to throw it back together as was, as i had no replacement balljoint.
wonder how long it'll go before i need to address that crap...
reno96teg
Integra Forum Moderator
-
I <3 Boost

Originally Posted by
Shmoo
Yeah, I did that too. What do you suggest for removing balljoints instead? Everyone should know that knocking on them with a hammer until they drop out is completely bogus. It has never worked for me, not even once and I have done 4 axle jobs, 3 suspension jobs, and 1 clutch job.
The problem was that the ball joint is 10 years old, seized into the hub, with a ripped boot spewing grease. I wouldn't have had to replace it but it just spun when I put the nut back on, so I couldn't get it far enough up to put the cotter pin in.
I ghetto rigged it and put something between the hub and the nut to keep it tight, but it failed not more than 10 feet from my driveway. Not fun at all.
This is my lesson to not ghetto rig any more since I could have been going fast when it failed and it would have cost me a new suspension, body work, and possibly my car after losing control.
Yeah, I was going to replace my axle...but couldnt get the balljoint separated from the LCA for some reason...never happened before. I usually just beat on the LCA with a hammer, and use a jack on the LCA/balljoint to get them apart.
2011 WR Blue Mica Subaru Impreza WRX - AEM.CobbTuning.FastMotorsports.Grimmspeed.Invidia.Kartb oy.MR.TorquedPerformance.WorkSuperWheels
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
-

Originally Posted by
reno96teg
tore the boot on one of the lower balljoints with a seperator last fall/winter, when i was pulling that shit apart to press in a new wheel bearing. needless to say, the thing spewed out its grease, and i had no choice but to throw it back together as was, as i had no replacement balljoint.
wonder how long it'll go before i need to address that crap...
Most of my balljoint boots are ripped and leaking grease. I just couldn't get the nut back on the balljoint because it spun with the nut, so I had no choice but to replace it. I would assume that this will be the case for you. I picked up a full replacement with boot for $24 at autozone, so the price isn't bad, just getting it out to replace it.
-

Originally Posted by
Master Yodub
Yeah, I was going to replace my axle...but couldnt get the balljoint separated from the LCA for some reason...never happened before. I usually just beat on the LCA with a hammer, and use a jack on the LCA/balljoint to get them apart.
I could hardly get the lower balljoint to separate with the pickle fork, so I don't think banging on it with a hammer would be any more effective. I couldn't even get the drivers side lower balljoint to separate with the pickle fork, so I had to dislodge the tie rod and upper control arm balljoint to get the axle out.
-
Black Pearl
I picked up one of these the other day for $80. I know I will use it on some of the other vehicles I'm working on so I don't mind spending the money. Plus it has a lifetime guarantee on it. Hopefully it will work. 
-

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
I picked up one of these the other day for $80. I know I will use it on some of the other vehicles I'm working on so I don't mind spending the money. Plus it has a lifetime guarantee on it. Hopefully it will work.

That looks pretty hardcore.
That would be ideal to get those stubborn balljoints to separate. Hopefully you don't have what happened to me happen to you.
I should just invest in the one that the dealership mechanics use since it seems like I am ripping my suspension apart every other week.
-
I <3 Boost

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
I picked up one of these the other day for $80. I know I will use it on some of the other vehicles I'm working on so I don't mind spending the money. Plus it has a lifetime guarantee on it. Hopefully it will work.

Where'd you get that from?
2011 WR Blue Mica Subaru Impreza WRX - AEM.CobbTuning.FastMotorsports.Grimmspeed.Invidia.Kartb oy.MR.TorquedPerformance.WorkSuperWheels
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
-
CBOTY 2010
those are pretty common kits....i carry one all the time in my store...also...sometimes the easiest way to get those balljoints out is to have them pressed out if they are that bad....and as to u guys with ripped boots u might wanna look into replacing those ball joints...ripped boots and no grease is not a good thing...
-
Seni
I always hit it with a hammer and it comes out fine. Also If you press down on the spindle and Then try to tigent the nut it will not spin at all.
-

Originally Posted by
honura
I always hit it with a hammer and it comes out fine. Also If you press down on the spindle and Then try to tigent the nut it will not spin at all.
I tried that but it still spun. The nut was cross threaded, so that didn't help, either. It really needed to be changed anyway because it was making a clunking sound, but I was procrastinating as always.
-
Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
Master Yodub
Where'd you get that from?
I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts but I think Checker is basically the same store.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=648626
-
Member
That kit is basically the same as the one available from Checker as a loaner tool kit. They just want a hefty deposit but will return the whole amount when you return it.
-
Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
I think Checker is basically the same store.

Originally Posted by
ari_one
That kit is basically the same as the one available from Checker
Yup...
The hefty deposit is the price of the tool kit.
-
Registered User
The tool that looks like a jaw is probably the most effective tool for seperating ball joints. Can't tell you how many times I've used one of those.
-
I hate to bring this thread back but I am in the process of changing my wheel bearings and I cannot get the lower balljoint on the drivers side to separate from the LCA.
I have tried beating the spindle to death with a hammer, beating the LCA to death with a hammer in numerous spots, WD-40 inside the balljoint, jacking up the balljoint by the spindle, beating a pickle fork in there, stepping on the pickle fork, and heating the LCA up and it won't budge at all. I have been at this for an hour and a half now and I feel pathetic.
I don't give a damn about the ball joint since I have a replacement one on the floor already. Does anyone have any suggestions to get this stubborn son of a bitch out?
-
Amanda Backwards
I had the same problem getting mine off...well my buddy did because he's a lot stronger than me...and it took about a day of soaking it with wd-40, and eventually almost jumping on the pickle fork. Good luck!
(¨`·.·´¨ )*
`·.¸(¨`·.·´ )
* `·¸.·´* My 1995 Acura Integra GSR!!!
-
Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
Shmoo
I hate to bring this thread back but I am in the process of changing my wheel bearings and I cannot get the lower balljoint on the drivers side to separate from the LCA.
I have tried beating the spindle to death with a hammer, beating the LCA to death with a hammer in numerous spots, WD-40 inside the balljoint, jacking up the balljoint by the spindle, beating a pickle fork in there, stepping on the pickle fork, and heating the LCA up and it won't budge at all. I have been at this for an hour and a half now and I feel pathetic.
I don't give a damn about the ball joint since I have a replacement one on the floor already. Does anyone have any suggestions to get this stubborn son of a bitch out?
Try wedging the pickle fork in as far as you can and then hit the bottom of the bolt on the balljoint. That one came out harder when I did my clutch too. Where are you located? If nothing else I could UPS you my front end tool kit, but it probably wouldn't get to you before tuesday... Sorry I can't be of more help.
-
Thanks for the advice Hondaman. I guess I will have to keep trying with what I have. I will try again tomorrow with a larger hammer.
I appreciate you trying to help me. I need to get this done this weekend, however, so I don't think the tool would be of much use by Tuesday.
-
Honda-Acura
Honda S2000
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Honda and the Honda marquee are registered trademarks of the American Honda Motor Company, Inc. Neither American Honda Motor Company nor its subsidiaries or affiliates shall bear any responsibility for Honda-acura.net content, comments, or advertising. Honda-acura.net is not affiliated with American Honda Motor Company in any way. American Honda Motor Company does not sponsor, support, or endorse Honda-acura.net in any way. Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by
vBSEO 3.5.2
Bookmarks