The timing belt in my '94 Accord LX 2.2 earlier this week. I assume that I have valve damage, so I am already in the process of tearing down the top end to remove the cylinder head. I can already see through the exhaust ports that some valves that have pieces of carbon build-up knocked off. Therefore, I have to assume that they had some trauma from potentially hitting a piston. Anyways, I have a question on the distributor rotor position. The rotor is currently pointing at Cylinder No. 1 based on Cylinder No. 1 spark plug wire that connects to the dist cap. However, when I look at the Haynes manual, all of the pictures show that correct distributor rotor position for TDC No. 1 is pointing up slightly toward the firewall. What do you think?

Is it possible to do a headlight conversion from a pop-up to a non-pop-up headlight?

Similar to this photoshopped pic:
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/ph_nopopup.html

Anybody have any ideas if they sell them or if I would have to make one from scratch? lol

Personally I don't like the flip-up headlamps but I might eventually get used to them!

For those of you who don't change your own oil how much do you pay and who does it?

And the car feels like it has a new engine! I usually use regular gas, but decided to go to "plus" 89 octaine to see what happened. The engine runs smoother and quieter! Hard to belive going up one level in octane would show such good results.

Anyone else using 89 or 91 octane in their I4 cars?? If not, I highly recommend giving it a try.

do door checkers take a dump commonly on 03 accords?

my dad's driver door checker stopped holding the door open.

I have a 96EX and both fenders have been hit when the car was parked. Although the damage was not bad, I noticed that CAPA certified fenders and bumper covers appear to be dirt cheap... in the area of $40 each. One brand that I saw was Sherman from Michigan. Has anybody had experience using their parts? It almost seems like it is not worth doing body work on the existing fenders if comparable ones can be gotten so inexpensively. I would like to hear any recommendations. Thanks

I recently noticed that my 96 ex stumbles when I give stomp on the gas pedal. I typically drive very conservatively, so this condition may have existed for a while, but I had not noticed it. The car accelerates well with minimal pressure, but when I ask for the car to accelerate quickly it almost seems like the transmission is slipping. Almost like a clutch chatter. This goes away at 2000+ rpm. I only notice it when at a low speed because otherwise it would downshift and be above 2000 rpm. This problem I can live with, but it becomes a safety issue when I occasionally need to get up to speed fast.

I have also had an oxygen sensor code come up very infrequently. I don't think this is related. Another side issue I had was a rough idle, but in the cooler weather, the car seems to be running much better now, even on warm restarts.

I have seen some posting suggesting vacuum leaks or fuel injector issues. I plan on giving the vacuum hoses a good look over tomorrow. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks again for the always informative answers that are provided here!

My 90 Accord has developed a shaking problem, it's only when I'm on the gas tho. If I'm just rolling it does not shake, nor does it when I rev it in neutral. I'm desprate to find out what this is, please any help would be apprecaited! ! !

Does anyone have a step by step pictorial of how to remove and replace a IACV on a 1998 Accord Ex V6?

88 Accord LXi, 245,000 miles. I get a CEL with code 6 (6 short flashes on the LED on the PGM-FI). Replaced coolant sensor to no avail. Shop manual calls for using a system checker harness (honda part number 07999-PD6000A) to test wiring. Is there a way to manufacture this? I'd rather not pay the approx $175 list price for this.

I replaced my starter last week and in doing so, broke the plastic housing around my engine temp sensor. it still fits and stays on but ever since, the check engine light will come on...and usually only after the car has warmed up. I dont know what would be the exact cause and if I should be worried or not. ECU getting tripped? Sensor should definatly be repaired? Something worse?

I have the 2.2l SE Accord 1997 - We don't have emissions testing here ... and my car is severely under-powered ... I wanna get a little more outta her. Will a high flow CAT help? I already have a cold air intake and CAT-Back Bosal exhaust. I purchased a test pipe and forgot that the original CAT has the O2 sensor in it - Oops! I don't really want to by-pass that O2 sensor, but if I do, what are the drawbacks? Is there a good choice for a high flow cat - or just a straight through pipe with an O2 sensor port? TIA!!

I have 1 1995 Accord. I have the opportunity to purchase a low mileage engine from a 1998. Will the 98 engine fit? Does it matter if the trnasmission types are different?

Battery is fully charged and engine would not start. Lights on, radio, etc and no sounds coming from engine compartment when attempting to start. After numerous attempts, decided to shift into drive and reverse and back to park. Finally engine started. After starting normally during the afternoon, same thing occured late in day and playing with the shifter resulted in engine start. Any suggestions as to what could be malfuntioning?

this is my daughters '94 Accord

She has been going through front tires last 2 years even w/alignments.
Wearing is severe on outside section of each front tire. Is there a camber or toe adjustment on these Accords that a std alignment doesn't correct???

if so, about how much to expect to correct?

please help... thanks

Tom