LordBlatz

Okay, here is my problem: 93 GSR with 1.7L died on the road, engine just cut out and won't start up again.

I am getting a spark at all four plugs. Fuel pressure measures around 40psi, which I believe is within spec. I can detect NO signal going to any of the injectors. They don't seem to be opening at all. The Check Engine light comes on and goes off after two seconds, and sets NO CODES. Jumpering the test port causes the Check Engine light to stay on, no codes flash.

I checked the three sensors in the distributor, all are reading about 400 ohms, again within spec. Checked for shorts to from sensors to ground, none found. I also checked the same three sensors at the ECU harness, no problem there. I tested the main relay as per the shop manual, and it checked out fine. Tested the ignition switch, no problem found.

I'm at the point where the shop manual (I have the telephone book sized on from Acura) says to try a new ECU, but I don't know anyone else with a car like mine.

My theory is the ECU is bad, or the sensors in the distributor are bad, even though they read within spec on the test meter. Either option is a lot of $$$ to spend without being sure. I do know someone with a 93 Civic with a 1.5L, would I be able to swap the distributor just to see if the problem lies there? I know that you can swap the coils...

Anyway, if anyone has any ideas it would be much appreciated. If I can't fix it soon I suppose I'll have to admit defeat and tow it to the stealership.

Thanks,

LB

PHiZ

try an OBD1 P75 ecu, just to see if it starts, that P61 ecu is a bitch to find, and expensive, but you can run a chipped P28 in it's place (if it's your ecu that shit the bed)

solid CEL, usu is the ECU, AFAIK.

-PHiZ

LordBlatz

Thanks for the advice. Where do I find a P75 ECU? Form what sort of Honda/Acura is it from? Pardon my ignorance, my back ground is mostly Jeep repairs (Jeeps need a LOT of maintenance!).

To further my story, I got a hold of a set of injector test lights and to my surprise, the injectors ARE getting a pulse. I guess I'm back to my ECU theory, but darn it, I have fuel pressure, spark, and injector pulse, it should start!!!! I also checked the cam position, and tried varying the ignition timing, no luck there.

Thanks again,

LB

PHiZ

a P75 is an integra RS/GS/LS ecu, they are cheap and plentiful, I suggested it because it is cheap... And hopefully you can get one from a friend to test it out.

The P61, I've seen run for 200 easily, and the dealer gets 600-800 or them. (The kid I did a swap for, bought one before consulting me!!!!!)

Good luck.

-PHiZ

crxb16er

its very rare that an ecu is bad,

PHiZ

But it is easy to diagnose. And eliminate as a source of the problem.

-PHiZ

Kai

They are cheap and plentiful, however they will not have a proper rev limiter and they will not activate VTEC. You should be able to use:

P30 : del Sol VTEC/ Civic SiR (B16A)
P61: 92-93 GS-R (B17A)
P72: 94-95 GS-R (B18C), but ONLY the 94-95 version.

Others, like the previously mentioned P28, can be chipped to work.

If your P61 is busted, I'll buy it from you

LordBlatz

Update: I was able to test another ECU and that wasn't the problem, so I reluctantly towed it to the dealer.

A couple of days later they told me they found the problem: the coil was defective. I explained to them that I had put in a new coil, and I was getting a spark, so how could that be? They said the coil tested at 11,800 ohms, the minimum is 12,000. They tried a test coil and it started right away.

Now, when I tested the original coil, it also tested at around 11,700 ohms, so I decided to replace it. I went to Acura, and they told me they don't stock it, and would have to order one and it would take 3 to 4 business days. You would think they would have this part in stock, as coil failures seem to be a semi-common occurance in 90's era Hondas from what I've read. I was kind of annoyed they didn't have it, so I went to a local aftermarket parts place and picked one up. I tested the new coil, it also tested around 11,800 ohms. So, I figured that was the norm, and ruled out the coil as a source of the problem. I installed the new coil and of course it didn't start.

Now it looks like the local parts place sold me a defective POS, and guess what, I still have to wait 3 to 4 days for the dealer to get a new coil.

I have to admit that I didn't know that a weak spark would be enough to keep the engine from starting. I have always thought that if you had any kind of spark at all, then that wasn't the problem. Live and learn I guess.

Anyhow, thanks to all who gave advice.

LB