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Thread: awww. f series

  1. #1
    Ian
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    awww. f series

    I have a F22B1
    SOHC Vtec
    I-4
    145HP
    147 Ft. Lbs

    so far i have added a cheap intake, axle back stainless exhaust. The motor hasn't been driven hard and has been well maintained.

    What can I do to it performance wise? I don't have the money for forced induction. First i want to go through it and clean it and tune it all up, fresh fluids, get injectors cleaned, la la la but THEN when i get some money i want to get a little more power out of it, what can i do?

  2. #2
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    i have f22b2 non v-tec. spark plugs, headers and ingnition give horsepower. i have headers sparkplugs. i feel the gain

  3. #3
    I missed Sean sherwood's Avatar
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    you could put an H series transmission on there but it won't do much. if you wanted the power on demand a low boost option might not be a bad idea.

    as far as quick and cheap speed. nitrous is the only thing i can think of that will give you results you can really feel.
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  4. #4
    1). Headers, DC Sports unless you want to go cheaper
    2). Full Exhaust, 2.5 inches is all you need unless you have forced induction
    3). Cam Gears "I felt power from these the most" P.s. I got skunk 2 though
    4). Spark Plugs, Spark Wires NGK or Taylor
    5). Performance Distributor Cap and rotor, External Coil, MSD
    6). SAFC-II, so you can control your fuel curve
    7). Fuel Pump, Walboro
    8). Fuel Rail, AEM
    9). Fuel Regulator, AEM
    10). Camshafts, Crower, Skunk 2
    11). Valves, Titanium Retainers, Stronger Springs
    12). Flywheel/Clutch, ACT, Fidanza
    13). Port & Polish Head/Intake Manifold/Headers
    14). Pistons, JE (low compression if you ever plan to get turbo/sc/nos)(high compression if you just want to stay N/A)
    15). Ignition Computer, MSD
    16). Pulleys, AEM don't get underdrive pulley if you have soundsystem
    17). Fuel Injectors, stock ones are actually pretty good on Honda
    18). Throttle Body, Skunk 2, Venom
    19). Intake Manifold, Skunk 2, AEM, Venom
    20). Connecting Rods, Crower


    Hope this list helps I kind of put it in order of how you can go about it but everyone has there own opinion and does there own thing, just giving you a general idea have fun

  5. #5
    I missed Sean sherwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoloBoy View Post
    1). Headers, DC Sports unless you want to go cheaper
    2). Full Exhaust, 2.5 inches is all you need unless you have forced induction
    3). Cam Gears "I felt power from these the most" P.s. I got skunk 2 though
    4). Spark Plugs, Spark Wires NGK or Taylor
    5). Performance Distributor Cap and rotor, External Coil, MSD
    6). SAFC-II, so you can control your fuel curve
    7). Fuel Pump, Walboro
    8). Fuel Rail, AEM
    9). Fuel Regulator, AEM
    10). Camshafts, Crower, Skunk 2
    11). Valves, Titanium Retainers, Stronger Springs
    12). Flywheel/Clutch, ACT, Fidanza
    13). Port & Polish Head/Intake Manifold/Headers
    14). Pistons, JE (low compression if you ever plan to get turbo/sc/nos)(high compression if you just want to stay N/A)
    15). Ignition Computer, MSD
    16). Pulleys, AEM don't get underdrive pulley if you have soundsystem
    17). Fuel Injectors, stock ones are actually pretty good on Honda
    18). Throttle Body, Skunk 2, Venom
    19). Intake Manifold, Skunk 2, AEM, Venom
    20). Connecting Rods, Crower


    Hope this list helps I kind of put it in order of how you can go about it but everyone has there own opinion and does there own thing, just giving you a general idea have fun
    have fun with your extra ten horse- if that.

    everything you listed is nearly useless and no where near giving the car anything noticible.
    1.8L Acura Integra GSR: Back where it belongs.
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  6. #6
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    sherwood wut u talking about dude u get quite more hp than that and plus if u do all this and boost ull get more than what u would if u just boosted the car with jus header,fullexhaust, and intake

  7. #7
    I missed Sean sherwood's Avatar
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    they arent worth it.
    1.8L Acura Integra GSR: Back where it belongs.
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    2.2L Honda Accord EX: Sold to my sister
    232CI Mercury Sable: Sold to some lady, by my father, while i was on a camping trip. IMM232
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by xxdesi1234 View Post
    sherwood wut u talking about dude u get quite more hp than that and plus if u do all this and boost ull get more than what u would if u just boosted the car with jus header,fullexhaust, and intake
    Dyno charts, or

    Butt dynos don't mean shit.

  9. #9
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    sherwood tell me then wats worth it let me hear wat u would do bc i have the same car ex 2 door accord wats on ur mind?

  10. #10
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    one more question wouldnt ur engine be safer with all this shit under the hood?

  11. #11
    I missed Sean sherwood's Avatar
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    safer? huh? no. you are doing mods like a cam gear without tuning. you are more liable to screw something up andwithout proper tuning it's not worth anything.

    the only thing thats really worth anything is going F/I or high horsepower NA with major internal and headwork modifications.


    F/I is the best bang for the buck, turbo and supercharager are the only ways to go to feel positive gains.
    1.8L Acura Integra GSR: Back where it belongs.
    3.2L Pontiac Tran-sport Montana: that things about to go.
    2.2L Honda Accord EX: Sold to my sister
    232CI Mercury Sable: Sold to some lady, by my father, while i was on a camping trip. IMM232
    http://imagegen.last.fm/minimalDark/..._vigilante.gif

  12. #12
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    oooo alright so then i shouldnt do shit i should jus do sum good internal work tuned ?> and wats an f/i?

  13. #13
    Still here... sorta... westcoaststyle's Avatar
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    f/i = forced induction = turbo or supercharger

    You can do cam gears just set them to zero until you tune them. If you don't plan to tune, don't get them. I really never saw a need until I upgraded my cams and was pushing 23 psi.
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  14. #14
    get engine management... i use crome, it's free and it only cost me $20 to chip my own ecu... this can give you a free 10+ hp if you tune your powerband to lambda (perfect air:fuel ratio which is 13.7:1)

    honda doesnt tune your ecu to run at lambda from the factory to make better gas mileage...

    plus engine management will make every bolt-on mod you buy give you more horsepower when you tune your engine... crome makes most bolt on mods and turbos as easy as changing some settings...

    when tuning though, data aquisition and a dyno will make your life much easier... try an ostrich realtime emulator... it allows you to hook a laptop to your ecu and collect data... then you can instantly change and upload your new settings to your ecu on the fly while you drive... i have even heard of some software that gathers your data and projects where you could make more horsepower and changes your program.. this is the 'autotune'
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by KungFuKorean View Post
    get engine management... i use crome, it's free and it only cost me $20 to chip my own ecu... this can give you a free 10+ hp if you tune your powerband to lambda (perfect air:fuel ratio which is 13.7:1)

    honda doesnt tune your ecu to run at lambda from the factory to make better gas mileage...

    plus engine management will make every bolt-on mod you buy give you more horsepower when you tune your engine... crome makes most bolt on mods and turbos as easy as changing some settings...

    when tuning though, data aquisition and a dyno will make your life much easier... try an ostrich realtime emulator... it allows you to hook a laptop to your ecu and collect data... then you can instantly change and upload your new settings to your ecu on the fly while you drive... i have even heard of some software that gathers your data and projects where you could make more horsepower and changes your program.. this is the 'autotune'
    1. It costs more than $20 to tune. You have to factor in a chip burner, wideband, laptop, chips, rom editor (if applicable).
    2. Stoich A/F is 14.7:1. You only want 14.7:1 at idle.
    3. Lambda is the wideband voltage for any given a/f ratio.
    4. You must have datalogging to tune. Blindly changing fuel and ignition values is retarded and will cause more harm than good.
    5. An ostrich doesn't datalog. It real-time emulates.
    6. Crome pro has autotune, but it changes the fuel values to meet target lambda, which is set by the user.
    7. To my knowledge, F22 bin files aren't even supported in Crome, so the post is irrelevant anyway.

  16. #16
    you are right, an f22 isn't supported...

    but you can chip your ecu, convert it yourself, and add a data logging header for literally $20 dude with parts from www.digikey.com ...

    check out hondata and www.pgmfi.org ....
    -89 CRX Si with a D16Z6
    -93 Civic HB with a turbo D15 [KIA]

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by KungFuKorean View Post
    you are right, an f22 isn't supported...

    but you can chip your ecu, convert it yourself, and add a data logging header for literally $20 dude with parts from www.digikey.com ...

    check out hondata and www.pgmfi.org ....
    Yeah, I am well aware. Trust me, I have tuned a few cars before. I know what is involved in chipping, tuning, datalogging, and emulating.

    Good luck getting a .bin file to a chip for $20 minus the cost of the chip, soldering iron, solder, laptop, etc, etc, etc.

  18. #18
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    i wanna tunem y shit i dnt have any idea what to do i jus started driving my accord

  19. #18
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