Diy Grounding Kit?
#11
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Originally posted by LX4CYL
How about using 2-guage wires? I've seen it done here:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/linnfreak
Anyways, how about:
1. Upgrading all "wimpy" ground wires to 2-guage, including the "big 3"
2. Add additional ground wires that run to the negative terminal of the battery (possibly using a distribution block)
3. Run a ground wire from the alternator's metal body to either the chassis, or the negative terminal post.
4. smearing all ground points with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
All wires would use good quality connectors and heat-shrink.
sound good?
How about using 2-guage wires? I've seen it done here:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/linnfreak
Anyways, how about:
1. Upgrading all "wimpy" ground wires to 2-guage, including the "big 3"
2. Add additional ground wires that run to the negative terminal of the battery (possibly using a distribution block)
3. Run a ground wire from the alternator's metal body to either the chassis, or the negative terminal post.
4. smearing all ground points with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
All wires would use good quality connectors and heat-shrink.
sound good?
#12
Cone Basher
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I'm going with 4 guage, but I've got a few questions:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...threadid=73638
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...threadid=73638
#13
De-ricing in progress...
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hey everyone...
since my factory grounds looked very outta shape, i sorta made my own kit using some 4 gauge stereo wire, and some crimp rings i got from work... I soldered, then crimped, then taped up the ends real good... it may all be in my mind, but the car seems to run a bit smoother...
the pics below will show you what I did (don't mind the beater motor, the tape on the intake is to cover the holes made from the previous nitrous nozzle and air temp sensor, its not staying like that for long )... I started with the valve cover, on to the front frame/upper support, then went around the back of the head to the distributor, to the tranny, to the battery, and then for good measure, another spot on the body by the passenger shock...
here are the pics...
now the two questions I had are: 1)what else should I be grounding? and 2) is there an advantage/disadvantage to using this daisy chain setup over the distribution block setup???
Thanks in advance, any comments are appreciated...
since my factory grounds looked very outta shape, i sorta made my own kit using some 4 gauge stereo wire, and some crimp rings i got from work... I soldered, then crimped, then taped up the ends real good... it may all be in my mind, but the car seems to run a bit smoother...
the pics below will show you what I did (don't mind the beater motor, the tape on the intake is to cover the holes made from the previous nitrous nozzle and air temp sensor, its not staying like that for long )... I started with the valve cover, on to the front frame/upper support, then went around the back of the head to the distributor, to the tranny, to the battery, and then for good measure, another spot on the body by the passenger shock...
here are the pics...
now the two questions I had are: 1)what else should I be grounding? and 2) is there an advantage/disadvantage to using this daisy chain setup over the distribution block setup???
Thanks in advance, any comments are appreciated...
#14
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u should ground whatever needs it where the wires are sketchy, u did a good job of doing the negative battery cable, u can do the positive battery cable to the starter which is pretty much the biggest connection point where u need the most power but, if should already have at least a 6 guage wire there, example, i rigged up my own stereo and when i did i just wrapped the ground wire around one of the bolts that another ground wire was on, without using any type of connector or nething, like that would benefit by doing it right, as for most connections on the car honda does a good job of setting up the electronics, thicker ground and power wires are typically for show or bigger amps in the back of ur car that need alot of power. in older cars it is suggested that you use a slightly higher cca (cold cranking amp) battery to get all the amps to whatever might need it since some wiring may be old and a little worn out. nice car CivicDXR even with the stock engine it looks very nice.
#15
Asianalize your car
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Originally posted by LX4CYL
How about using 2-guage wires? I've seen it done here:
How about using 2-guage wires? I've seen it done here:
4 gauge is plenty.
As to the Daisy Chain VS Distribution Block, it won't matter as long as everything is connected well. These ground runs are so short (ie. <5 ft.) so it shouldn't matter at all.
Jung
P.S. I spent a lot of time perfecting my battery setup, with good grounds, great cable, blah blah, and then my Optima Battery went bad... ugh...
#16
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Originally posted by jung4g
2 gauge is extreme overkill. Have you seen that wire, huge!!
4 gauge is plenty.
As to the Daisy Chain VS Distribution Block, it won't matter as long as everything is connected well. These ground runs are so short (ie. <5 ft.) so it shouldn't matter at all.
Jung
P.S. I spent a lot of time perfecting my battery setup, with good grounds, great cable, blah blah, and then my Optima Battery went bad... ugh...
2 gauge is extreme overkill. Have you seen that wire, huge!!
4 gauge is plenty.
As to the Daisy Chain VS Distribution Block, it won't matter as long as everything is connected well. These ground runs are so short (ie. <5 ft.) so it shouldn't matter at all.
Jung
P.S. I spent a lot of time perfecting my battery setup, with good grounds, great cable, blah blah, and then my Optima Battery went bad... ugh...
#18
alternator (high output)
I regrounded my system recently. 4 gauge. anything more IS over kill...
I only really found 3 or 4 grounds... (I'll take pictures tomorrow) just some scrap 4 gauge from work I replaced the ring terminals with premium terminals as well as the battery with an Optima yellowtop. I wrapped all the new grounds with wire loom (since I'll be adding an alarm soon I'm informed that it's a good idea to keep all the wires looking the same thus to camoflauge any important wires...)
most of the cables are red if you must know, (clear will yellow up on you) I wanted to go with blue but we didn't have any scraps long enough for that.
anyhow I plan on putting in a pretty sick Kicker system very soon. however my co-workers have recomended replacing the alternator with a high output alternator. however I cannot find any one/place that sells alternators for japanese cars. (GM I can find no problem) and I'm wondering if any of you know where I can get my hands on a better alternator.
the point being to keep my system going, and when the bass hits I don't want my lights or ANYTHING for that matter to dim. (probably going to be running a KX 650.4 and kx 1200.1) running an L7 10" I'd like to run the 12" but I think I would need the next amp up which takes a $300 price jump (little too much) plus, I'm not sure I can fit the 12" box for it in my trunk.
anyhow I'll put some pictures up of my grounding job to help others... and for critique (I need to make sure I didn't miss anything ... I have this feeling that I did.
I only really found 3 or 4 grounds... (I'll take pictures tomorrow) just some scrap 4 gauge from work I replaced the ring terminals with premium terminals as well as the battery with an Optima yellowtop. I wrapped all the new grounds with wire loom (since I'll be adding an alarm soon I'm informed that it's a good idea to keep all the wires looking the same thus to camoflauge any important wires...)
most of the cables are red if you must know, (clear will yellow up on you) I wanted to go with blue but we didn't have any scraps long enough for that.
anyhow I plan on putting in a pretty sick Kicker system very soon. however my co-workers have recomended replacing the alternator with a high output alternator. however I cannot find any one/place that sells alternators for japanese cars. (GM I can find no problem) and I'm wondering if any of you know where I can get my hands on a better alternator.
the point being to keep my system going, and when the bass hits I don't want my lights or ANYTHING for that matter to dim. (probably going to be running a KX 650.4 and kx 1200.1) running an L7 10" I'd like to run the 12" but I think I would need the next amp up which takes a $300 price jump (little too much) plus, I'm not sure I can fit the 12" box for it in my trunk.
anyhow I'll put some pictures up of my grounding job to help others... and for critique (I need to make sure I didn't miss anything ... I have this feeling that I did.