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| Do It Yourself This is where you will find step by step instructions so you can Do it Yourself! |
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#1 | |||||||
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On permanent hiatus
Join Date: Jul 2004
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Posts: 9,716
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DIY Axle Boot Replacement (Lots of pictures)
Last edited by Provocateur; 03-15-08 at 01:56 AM. |
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#2 |
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got boost?
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that is one awsome DIY great job Steve!!! i am sure this will help out a lot of people!
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CARBON BLACK E46 //M3 2000 TURBO SI 2001 TURBO GSR SOLD www.customlightz.com |
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#3 |
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i <3 jdm
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WOW! great job on the DIY. this is great info.
...so how dirty is your camera now? |
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#4 |
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On permanent hiatus
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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Nice write up, thanks!
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#6 |
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www.ufc.com
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Irvine CA
Posts: 2,920
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Good write up for sure. And I agree w/rebuilds from autozone being shit hole buys. But what about factory re-man? I bought some of those for my old Integra and they worked great. Came in the air sucked packing and everything.
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"Time Makes Everyone Tap." |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
In this case, replacing the axle is obviously overkill. Even if I were replacing the axles with autozone axles, I just saved $50 and still had a good axle. |
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#8 | |
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www.ufc.com
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Irvine CA
Posts: 2,920
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Quote:
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"Time Makes Everyone Tap." |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 8
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wow man!!! ns DIY
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: las vegas nevada
Posts: 65
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axle boot replacement
I agree nice write up. But you dont have to remove the inboard cv. All you need to do is remove the outboard boot and tap the outboard cv with a brass hammer and the joint will come off.
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#11 | |
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According to 12yearhondatech, the removal of the inner CV joint isn't necessary. The outboard boot should come off and here is the procedure:
Quote:
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#12 |
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Si CK
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this is a damn good DIY guide
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Todd the Type-R Turtle wasn't always a Type-R.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
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Its easier to leave the car on the ground when trying to brake the axle nut loose, then you don't need someone on the brakes. Good write up though
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#14 |
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On permanent hiatus
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Thanks.
![]() I don't think my socket would fit through the center cap. Some wheels will allow it easily, though. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 294
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Sweet dude, I've always wanted to knwo how to do this , and actually need to. It's a lot easier to take the axel nut off witht he tires on and the car on the ground though. Super DIY! THanks.
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#16 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
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awesome info... and great trick for popping out the ball joint!
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#17 |
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On permanent hiatus
Join Date: Jul 2004
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Thanks. That isn't my idea for popping out that ball joint, so I will not take credit for it. Just happy to pass it along to others that are frustrated by their lower ball joints.
![]() Keep the comments coming. |
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 193
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I have done this job on a 88 accord.
I would recommend getting an electric impact wrench to remove lug nuts when the car is up in the air and to remove the 32 mm spindle nut: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...108&pricetype= I would also recommend snap ring pliers to remove the metal snap rings: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...iers&Submit=Go The metal snap rings are really hard to get out even with snap ring pliers. Any one use an OTC slide hammer with CV joint puller attachment to pull the axle from the transmission? Plying it out with a pry bar can gouge or put dents on the transmission case? I would buy honda acura remanufactured axles. They are probably higher quality than autozone ones but I did have one honda acura remanufactured axle come with a tiny tear in the boot and I installed it and the boot tear lengthened after driving on it. The tear lead me to do the Axle Boot Replacement. |
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#19 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1
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That's an excellent DIY !!
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#20 |
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Member
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I agree.... That's a great write up !!!
Thanks |
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 395
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you forgot to mention about staking the nut.
nice write-up/pics.
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refs: Brar (alpine 6.5s), |
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#22 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Virgina
Posts: 17
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thanks that was great info it helped me out alot.
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#23 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
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tag!! (i've looked at this so many times in preparation of my own boot replacement... this will make it easier to find!!)
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#24 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
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thats a great price! do you think it is strong enough for the spindle nut?
Quote:
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#25 | ||
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On permanent hiatus
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Quote:
Quote:
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#26 |
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On permanent hiatus
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If it is seized on there, I don't think it will help you. The nut should be torqued to 134 ft/lbs but if it hasn't been removed in a while, it will take a lot more force to remove it than 150 ft/lbs.
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#27 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 395
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oops reading>me.
btw... if certain shafts require c-clips, what kind of grease do you recommend to be put on the c-clip, if necessary?
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refs: Brar (alpine 6.5s), |
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#28 | |
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On permanent hiatus
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Quote:
Just any high temp grease will be sufficient, not for lubrication, but for protecting the machined surface of the axle splines from corrosion. |
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#29 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 193
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I did not want to invest in an air tools set up. IR makes 1/2" electric impact wrenches that will take the spindle nut off but they are $400 and up. I bought a $400 1/2" electric impact wrench and it took it off easily.
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#30 | |
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On permanent hiatus
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: A forum with actual tech
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Quote:
But a big impact wrench is definitely handy for larger jobs like clutch installs and suspension work. |
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