DIY 6th gen Civic brake pad and rotor change

[vi3tromanc3r]

so im guessing its the same with slotted rotors?

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[ED9man]

make sure you clean the hub well, this can cause pulsating issues due to the rotor not seating perfectly flush because of the rust.

[OblivionLord]

Almost 2 years now... any possible way you could update this thread with some Rear Drum Brake changing with pics?

/me crosses fingers

[therivler1]

Just got finished replacing my rotor/pads with new Brembo rotor/pads - thanks for the write up!

The 17mm bolts were hard to get off, but with liquid wrench, and a 3-foot breaker bar, it was a cinch

I am trying to find the correct bed-in procedure now - not having much luck. Anyone have any links? Thanks.

[OblivionLord]

Rear Drum replacement guide with pics pleaseeeeeeee

[emoney]

ABS brake parts cost big dollars amounts, so I drain the brake fluid while chainging the brake pads. First open brake master cyl. and empty all old brake fluid. I use a "turkey baster" to suck old fluid out. Then refill with new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid and then open all brake bleeder screws using a 10 mm socket. Check and refill master cyl. ever 10 to 15 minutes until a quart of new fluid is in the system.
While the fluid is draining do the brake pads. This way you do not risk having to reset anything in the ABS.
regards,
emoney

[robbyrob]

been a while and I just saw this thread. Pretty much all the info I wanted on this one here. Just have a couple question. I am doing a 8th gen 2006 civic. do you think the screws will be the same. I just mean will they be so that I could do them with a regular socket and not something like a torx or anything.

another thing is the hole bleed the breaks deal. Some people swear by it and some say its not really needed. I have had this car for 2 yrs first brake pad change. Doing this alone as my family was in a accident and no one really around to help me out.

[hondalovereps]

Hey thanks for this D.I.Y. thread. This was my first time doing this brake pad change, and it was like a breeze after i finished the right side. I just took my time and figured out what I was looking at and did it. To those that havent done this and are going to..just read and follow like the thread says..you can't go wrong.
Definetly need more posts like these for simple projects, because the amount they try to charge you to get things like this done anywhere else is rape

[chimchim]

Originally Posted by robbyrob

another thing is the hole bleed the breaks deal. Some people swear by it and some say its not really needed. I have had this car for 2 yrs first brake pad change. Doing this alone as my family was in a accident and no one really around to help me out.

Here's the deal... for pads, you don't need to bleed the brakes as long as you keep the system closed; that means don't let air into the system anywhere. For pads, there is no reason to allow air in. If air is getting in, then your seals are leaky (piston o rings, brake lines, etc)... and you have a bigger problem.

Keep an eye on the reservoir after each piston is pushed back. If the brake fluid reservoir looks like it will overflow, use a turkey baster or pump to suck some fluid out. (dispose of properly)

If your brakes are spongy with the car off, you need to bleed the brakes. Bleeding brakes is easy to do, but you need to make sure not to let the reservoir go down.

I don't have a brake bleeding FAQ.

[SCoupe]

The original post states tools needed but omits reference to the C-clamp seen later in the photos to press the piston in. What size is needed because my 2-1/2" clamp is way to small...?

Originally Posted by westcoaststyle

Those screws are very common so don't worry about messing them up. If you ABSOLUTELY can't get them off, you can drill the heads off the top (~1/8") so you can get the rotors off. Then you'll have a pretty good shot at them with some vice grips and pb blaster. They can be very tough to get off...

Do NOT spend too much time and effort on these freaking do nothing screws. If they won't come off with what you have, get a drill bit just a little smaller than the screw head and wipe it out. The disc will just come off. I found that the screw fuses to the disk from corrosion. If you want to you can use plyers and remove the stub left behind, though in may case my fingers spun them out. This sounds drastic but it is not and hurts nothing. The wheel holds the disc in place, the screws make assembly line production easier. REPEAT: The screws do nothing of consequence and can easily be drilled out!

Originally Posted by HighLife

I went to pepboys and they said they can do it for 15$....thats pretty cheap and kinda makes me wonder. Is there something wrong with getting them turned down by pepboys? hahaha

No, in fact it is a very good idea to use PepBoys/Kragen/other with service bays to resurface in spec off-vehicle rotors for $10-15 each. Both sell new blanks for $20 or $28ea. that are good quality and come with a one or two year warranty, so keep that in mind as well. I have used them for ten years and highly recommend them.