crank case evacuation
09-20-2005, 02:04 PM
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crank case evacuation
I am thinking of using a 12v "3 vane" horn compressor to evacuate my crank pressure gasses. It is supposed to maintain a steady 7 psi.
Has anyone attempted using an apparatus like this horn compressor? I am going to use it "backwards" so air is pulled from the crank case.
I have questions. I am not a air/fluid engineer. Hahaha.
Does pressure eminating from a source get expended at each "tank"? If I wash the bad air in a series of oil seperation tanks will the total source pressure be divided over the number of tanks I use? Like voltage in an electrical circuit?
If I reduce the amount of oil in the vapors by traps and filters will I be able to exhaust through the compressor to the atmosphere? What would happen if I sent the clean compressed air back to the IM in a closed circuit?
I wonder if this compressor has to run all the time or can I set it up to turn on after a certain rpm is reached?
I am thinking of using a small oil cooler in an upside down position and placing the "horn" compressor after the air comes out of the cooler and through a filter. My other idea is to serpentine some small tubing (venturi speed). I am thinking there has got to be a way to "tap" the tubes at the bottom of each run to allow for oil drainage. Maybe like a pin prick? Anyone know how to drain yet still retain the vacuum and air speed?
My idea is if I can put sharp turns into the oily air stream the air will dive through the turns but the drunken oil will react to late and hit the outer tube wall and slime its way to the bottom of the troft??
Good ideas or industrial experience graciously rec'd. Thanks. RFT
Has anyone attempted using an apparatus like this horn compressor? I am going to use it "backwards" so air is pulled from the crank case.
I have questions. I am not a air/fluid engineer. Hahaha.
Does pressure eminating from a source get expended at each "tank"? If I wash the bad air in a series of oil seperation tanks will the total source pressure be divided over the number of tanks I use? Like voltage in an electrical circuit?
If I reduce the amount of oil in the vapors by traps and filters will I be able to exhaust through the compressor to the atmosphere? What would happen if I sent the clean compressed air back to the IM in a closed circuit?
I wonder if this compressor has to run all the time or can I set it up to turn on after a certain rpm is reached?
I am thinking of using a small oil cooler in an upside down position and placing the "horn" compressor after the air comes out of the cooler and through a filter. My other idea is to serpentine some small tubing (venturi speed). I am thinking there has got to be a way to "tap" the tubes at the bottom of each run to allow for oil drainage. Maybe like a pin prick? Anyone know how to drain yet still retain the vacuum and air speed?
My idea is if I can put sharp turns into the oily air stream the air will dive through the turns but the drunken oil will react to late and hit the outer tube wall and slime its way to the bottom of the troft??
Good ideas or industrial experience graciously rec'd. Thanks. RFT
05-14-2007, 01:15 AM
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personally i wouldnt do that.
the vaccume created by the manifold is deisnged to suck out from the crankcase at a certain rate. also the pcv valve itself has a spring ball mechanisim that moves up and down as pressure increases or decreases.
if you change or otherwise alter the pressure you could damage your crankcase (due to mis-ventilating) or blow apart your pcv valve.
I had a pcv valve literally blow apart from a clogged line that goes from the pcv to the manifold. the line was clogged causing the pressure to jump too high and sucked the metal part right out of the plastic valve.
my suggestion. just leave it alone. get a new pcv valve and some new tubing, preferably fuel line tubing, its thicker, more durable, lasts longer, and better for heat. Clean everything out and youll maintain a good vaccume from your manifold. No reason to go above and beyond when you dont need to.
the vaccume created by the manifold is deisnged to suck out from the crankcase at a certain rate. also the pcv valve itself has a spring ball mechanisim that moves up and down as pressure increases or decreases.
if you change or otherwise alter the pressure you could damage your crankcase (due to mis-ventilating) or blow apart your pcv valve.
I had a pcv valve literally blow apart from a clogged line that goes from the pcv to the manifold. the line was clogged causing the pressure to jump too high and sucked the metal part right out of the plastic valve.
my suggestion. just leave it alone. get a new pcv valve and some new tubing, preferably fuel line tubing, its thicker, more durable, lasts longer, and better for heat. Clean everything out and youll maintain a good vaccume from your manifold. No reason to go above and beyond when you dont need to.
05-19-2007, 10:14 PM
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I dunno about all that work you're thinking about. It seems like way too much work to me. I do know that my buddy re routed the crank case ventilation on his diesel a while back. He just routed the line down to his exhaust tube and welded a bung in to keep everything sealed up nice and pretty. Its not supposed to hurt anything and keeps oil out if the intake. That being said, I still think like Will, just get a new valve, clean the crap out of everything and put it back together 