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Thread: Problems removing axle nut

  1. #1
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    Problems removing axle nut

    I need to replace the 5 speed manual transmission on my sonís í97 Honda Civic DX (hatchback). (very noisey - pops out of 4th - will not go into 5th gear). I using the clutch/flywheel replacement guide post by westcoaststyle (http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh....php?p=1715569) as a guide. (It is better written than the manual, and the pictures are great!!)

    Iím stuck on removing the axle nut, as simple as that sounds.

    Last fall, my son had the axle/cv joints replace by an independent near the school he attends, and they really pounded the rim of the nut. I have straighten the rim of the nut a much as possible, but still cannot loosen the nut. I have sprayed it with liquid wrench, used a 345 ft/lbs impact wrench, and applied heat. Still no luck.

    Any suggestions? Anyone ever cut an axle nut off?

    Thanks for your help.
    Dan Steadman
    Boiling Spring, SC

  2. #2
    Registered User foot's Avatar
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    Find an impact that has more nuts. I can't tell you how many times I have gotten a car in that had red loctite on the nut AND on the splines of the axle. Pissed me the hell off tryin to remove those parts. People seem to be afraid they will fall apart or something. If anything you should use some sort of anti sieze compound. The torque on those things isnt any more than 150ftlbs. Which is why I'm thinkin they either used one hell of an impact wrench and zipped that sucker down TIGHT or they used red loctite. If you find a large impact gun and still cant get it off you may have to cut it.

    I saw your other post, someone suggested removing teh lower ball joint and pulling the axle out of the tranny instead and leave the other end in the hub.

  3. #3
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    if an impact isnt doing it...I went out and got a 3/4 drive SOLID tool from craftsman...the drive is a solid piece that slides on a bar. I put the 32mm on there with a 3ft pole and stood on it...I did this when an impact wouldnt work...and also...if you havent used a 6sided socket...greatneck sells one and autozone ussually has it in stock. I hope this helps...heat ussually loosens up the loctite...dunno WTF someone would use locktite on something that shouldnt be torqued severely.
    Chipped ECUs, Chipping Service, Maps for Chips, Boost, NA, base, tunes...2AM racing. PM For questions on my auctions, also have unchipped ECUs, pr3, p72, p06, p28, pm6, p30...will post inventory when it arrives.

  4. #4
    Member ari_one's Avatar
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    If you haven't had luck getting the axle nut off yet, another (at home) way is to use a breaker bar with the bar low put a floor jack under the breaker bar and then pump slowly and carefully. You will either get the nut to come off or the breaker bar will break so make sure nothing breakable is close by and make sure the breaker bar is one with a lifetime warranty.

  5. #5
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    I took a screw $1 slot screw driver from Target and knocked the dent out of the nut, then I sprayed WD-40 all over it. Enjoy a cold beer while the wd40 soaks through 7 years of grime. Take your hubcap/ center cap off, put the car on the ground, get a 17-18 inch breaker bar, and stand on the end of it until it loosens.

  6. #6
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    I know this sounds stupid but are you sure you have the impact turning the right way? Make sure you air pressure is all the way up on your air compressor, my compressor is always at 175psi and i have never had any bolts or nuts that I could not remove. If you still cant get off after that try a 3/4 impact if you have one or go to a shop and have brake it loose for you and then lightly tighten it back up ( tighten it up so it wont come off or be to loose to damage the wheel bearing). There is know reason the nut should be that tight.

  7. #7
    Registered User foot's Avatar
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    Undo the lower ball joint, pull the axles out of the tranny and leave the other end in the hubs.

  8. #8
    i used the i believe a 32 or 34 mm socket and a 5 foot steal pole.. that thing came right off..esp with the amount of torque that they put them on with. but with a longer pipe it is easier to break something lose. and make sure u "undent" the nut before you try to take it off. the push in part of the nut to kind of seal it and keep it from undoin itself

  9. #9
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    I ended up putting my wheel back on and using my long breaker bar up against the garage floor, I put the car in gear revved it a tad and let the clutch out. I was able to produce enough torque that way to get one side loose. The other side I ended up having to cut off.

  10. #10
    soon to be turbo'd rzarectah's Avatar
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    i just had the same problem 3 days ago or so, its posted on hurr too, i couldnt get mine off either to replace my studs, i payed 38 dollars to get a local tire shop to put up with it, an hour later and viola! that was my last resort... pay somebody, hmph...
    rzarectah live in ya sectah

  11. #11
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    Thanks to those who posted suggestions. I tried all the suggestions here except limp to a shop and have them rip it off. I was a bit far into the project for this. I tried a four foot pipe on a breaker bar Ė no luck.

    I removed the lower control arm without removing the hub. This worked very well.

    Thanks again.
    Dan Steadman

  12. #11
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