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| Do It Yourself This is where you will find step by step instructions so you can Do it Yourself! |
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#1 | |||||||
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: california
Posts: 1
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 6
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If you over tighten the axle nut and drive for a little and the shaft pops out, is the shaft toast and needs to be replaced, or can you re-set it?
Thanks, Edit: My noobness: I didn't have the shaft all the way in. It popped out. I took it apart, got it in the additional 1/8 of an inch and could no longer "overtighen" the axle nut. Last edited by mohater; 06-06-08 at 05:16 PM. |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1
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Use a pry bar to pop the inner joint out of the transmission. Make sure the retaining clip is on the old axle because you don't want a steel clip getting munched up in your transmission. If it's not on there, stick a magnet inside your transmission and you should easily find it.
![]() I don't know if i'm seeing this right. But are you prying out the wrong axle?? I thought we were working on the driver side axle?? (which is the one i am going to be replacing) Or do you have to pry the other side out in order to get that driverside axle out?? Or can you pry out from that edge?? i'm confused
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 6
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3
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Excellent write-up - Thanks! I'm now stuck on the LBJ. I had to remove it with a separator, and hitting the side of the LCA it eventually came out - it was rusted in. In doing this, the separator crushed the end of the threads where the 2 cross holes are for the cotter pin. so...
I need to replace the LBJ. Is this do-able at home or am I in for a trip to the dealer? Haynes says the dealer, but I kind of figure that if anyone will know how to DIY, they'll be here somewhere. Thanks in advance... |
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#6 |
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I'm made of meat!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 3,484
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Yeah, actually... those people are here somewhere. When I did my axles, I replaced both LBJ's because they really needed it anyway. Pictures can be found here:
http://homepage.mac.com/jafro/PhotoAlbum8.html Go to that page. Most of the axle replacement pics from this DIY are in there, but there are a few specific pictures of the ball joint replacement in there. There's a snap-ring holding the LBJ in. Remove the snap ring and the one seal retaining ring from the hub (so you don't bend it as the LBJ comes out) and BFH the LBJ out. Press the new joint in with whatever you can find (I used welding clamps and patience). Put the new snap ring on it, put the seal retainer back in, and you're done. If you don't buy Honda LBJ's and end up with MOOG or another good aftermarket part, you might be lucky enough to get one with grease fittings. 5g and later civic suspensions don't have grease fittings but some aftermarket parts do. OMG those last longer. Just be sure to pack 'em with grease before putting it back on the ground if it did indeed come with grease fittings. Tools needed: Flat-blade screwdriver, snap-ring pliers, BFH, bearing press or 6" welding clamps or whatever. So specific, I know. The important thing is that you're having fun doing it. Possibly a grease gun.EDIT: ah what the heck, here are the pics... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This thread wasn't about doing LBJ's, because it throws off the whole 15-minute thing and needs more tools. Enjoy.
__________________
Jafro My 1995 Eclipse GSX (pictures) - 12.20 ET - 12.42 ET - 12.47 ET vs. Z06 Corvette - 324awhp 1991 Dodge Colt GL (pictures) - Colt chassis - engine donor - AWD trans donor - 4g63t tear-down - 4g63t reconditioning - 4g63t longblock assembly 1999 Ford F-150 Last edited by Jafro; 08-10-08 at 02:31 AM. Reason: adding pics. |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3
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Too good! Thanks ever so much for this. I'll attack it (literally) in the next day or 2 and let you know how it went.
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3
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Jafro, thanks again for the excellent info. Now it looks like I need to do wheel bearings
I checked out your pictures and noticed 2 things....1. no pics of wheel bearings. I assume that again I can do this at home. Circlip holds them in from the outside, and I'll use the old bearing as a drift to coax the new one in if required. 2. You have a pic showing gas at 1.89 a gallon! ahhh..... the good old days! Thanks again, Dave |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
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Thanks!
Thanks, Jafro!
I just changed the axles in my 1996 TL using hand tools following your directions. The only thing I needed that you didn't mention was a ball-joint puller, then it was a breeze. Much appreciation!
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 193
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How do you get the ball joint loose from the lower control arm without damage?
Which tool works to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm? I have used a pickle fork before and it destroyed the ball joint. |
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#11 | |
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I'm made of meat!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 3,484
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Quote:
NOVEL: nonbox, several if not all of the different methods have already been covered in this thread. But I will list the methods again in order of easiest-to-biggest-PITA. Use any of these 4 methods with the details others have shared, and you won't have to replace anything but the axle and a cotter pin. If you don't use one of these methods, instructions are also in this thread for replacing what you broke. :P 1) pry down on the LCA with a pry bar and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This method sorta needs 2 people but it's usually only 1 whack and you're done. Alternate sides if it doesn't, because the stud from the LBJ that goes through the hub is tapered. It's a piece of cake. 2) jack up the rotor to lift the hub assembly, and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This is a great 1-man method, but you have to be more cautious than to just avoid hitting your friend with the hammer, because the jack can make the car unstable if you're not paying attention. 3) ball joint separator. too much hassle. Use only in a pinch. It's like the three bears... This separator is too big, this one is too small. this one mushroomed the bolt anyway... They're clumsy, tedious tools that are harder to find than what's needed for options 1 or 2. 4) leave it connected and disconnect the whole LCA/hub/strut assembly. This really is the most difficult and time consuming option. It's heavier, and requires removing 3 bolts instead of just 1 nut. Putting it back in without help sucks bad, but it can be done if you put down your purse and bleed on it. By the time you've had to resort to this method, there's usually a small crowd gathered and laughing at you so help should be easy to find. You already have the hammer if you're using a pickle fork in the first place... so you should never have to use the pickle fork on good parts. A pickle fork always destroys the boot, and once the boot goes, the grease leaks out allowing dirt and water to get in it. This causes the joint to fail. Hondas don't come with grease fittings anywhere on their suspension parts to flush that junk out, so it's toast. Unless the boot is already torn, or the joint is already failing, never use a pickle fork.
__________________
Jafro My 1995 Eclipse GSX (pictures) - 12.20 ET - 12.42 ET - 12.47 ET vs. Z06 Corvette - 324awhp 1991 Dodge Colt GL (pictures) - Colt chassis - engine donor - AWD trans donor - 4g63t tear-down - 4g63t reconditioning - 4g63t longblock assembly 1999 Ford F-150 Last edited by Jafro; 09-19-08 at 01:15 AM. |
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#12 |
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Need zzzzz's
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,376
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2.5) Unbolt the upper control arm. It's worth trying 1 and 2 but I've had trouble with the BFH and jack methods in the past. Unbolting the upper is the next logical step IMHO.
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1992 Honda Civic EX 4dr 1999 Mazda Miata 10AE 2000 YZF600R |
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#13 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: smyrna, DE
Posts: 2
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help
Hi, i have a 98tl 2.5 and was wondering if i can use this diy for this car as well. I need to replace both sides
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#14 |
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I'm made of meat!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 3,484
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The tools might be different, but the process should be the same for all CV-axle front ends... unless they have packed bearing assemblies. Pretty much everything made from '92-on has sealed bearings, and a TL fits that demographic so you should be fine. You might have different sized sockets, but that's about it.
PS: Welcome to HAN. Wow there are lots of people in this thread who have ONLY posted here.
__________________
Jafro My 1995 Eclipse GSX (pictures) - 12.20 ET - 12.42 ET - 12.47 ET vs. Z06 Corvette - 324awhp 1991 Dodge Colt GL (pictures) - Colt chassis - engine donor - AWD trans donor - 4g63t tear-down - 4g63t reconditioning - 4g63t longblock assembly 1999 Ford F-150 Last edited by Jafro; 09-23-09 at 06:46 PM. |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 193
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I have rusted splines and a prybar doesn't do a good job. Has anyone used a slide hammer tool instead of a prybar to get the axle out? The slide hammer tool will also prevent gouging up the transmission case.
Pics of the slide hammer tool: http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace026.jpg Pics of the crowfoot adapter: http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace025.jpg Thumbnail Pics: http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/ |
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#16 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: smyrna, DE
Posts: 2
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Jafro, thanks for your response, this is a great site and very helpful.
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