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Do It Yourself This is where you will find step by step instructions so you can Do it Yourself!

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Old 03-10-08, 11:29 PM   #1
burnx45
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Thanks for the how to instructions. It made the whole process much easier. I also recommend getting a shop manual as it has very detailed information with over 1400 pages. I have it in pdf format. I picked up a new axle at kragen auto parts for like $70.
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Old 05-17-08, 01:25 PM   #2
mohater
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If you over tighten the axle nut and drive for a little and the shaft pops out, is the shaft toast and needs to be replaced, or can you re-set it?

Thanks,

Edit: My noobness: I didn't have the shaft all the way in. It popped out. I took it apart, got it in the additional 1/8 of an inch and could no longer "overtighen" the axle nut.

Last edited by mohater; 06-06-08 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 05-21-08, 08:31 PM   #3
JDM_J03
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Use a pry bar to pop the inner joint out of the transmission. Make sure the retaining clip is on the old axle because you don't want a steel clip getting munched up in your transmission. If it's not on there, stick a magnet inside your transmission and you should easily find it.


I don't know if i'm seeing this right. But are you prying out the wrong axle?? I thought we were working on the driver side axle?? (which is the one i am going to be replacing) Or do you have to pry the other side out in order to get that driverside axle out?? Or can you pry out from that edge?? i'm confused
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Old 06-06-08, 05:15 PM   #4
mohater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM_J03 View Post
...
That is the drivers side.

You can tell because on Civics, the tranny is on the left side, so the passenegr side is much shorter than the drivers side.

Unless you get the axle nut off and the hub apart from the shaft, you're not prying anything out.
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Old 08-09-08, 10:00 PM   #5
lusso64
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Excellent write-up - Thanks! I'm now stuck on the LBJ. I had to remove it with a separator, and hitting the side of the LCA it eventually came out - it was rusted in. In doing this, the separator crushed the end of the threads where the 2 cross holes are for the cotter pin. so...

I need to replace the LBJ. Is this do-able at home or am I in for a trip to the dealer? Haynes says the dealer, but I kind of figure that if anyone will know how to DIY, they'll be here somewhere.

Thanks in advance...
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Old 08-10-08, 01:43 AM   #6
Jafro
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Yeah, actually... those people are here somewhere. When I did my axles, I replaced both LBJ's because they really needed it anyway. Pictures can be found here:

http://homepage.mac.com/jafro/PhotoAlbum8.html

Go to that page. Most of the axle replacement pics from this DIY are in there, but there are a few specific pictures of the ball joint replacement in there. There's a snap-ring holding the LBJ in. Remove the snap ring and the one seal retaining ring from the hub (so you don't bend it as the LBJ comes out) and BFH the LBJ out. Press the new joint in with whatever you can find (I used welding clamps and patience). Put the new snap ring on it, put the seal retainer back in, and you're done. If you don't buy Honda LBJ's and end up with MOOG or another good aftermarket part, you might be lucky enough to get one with grease fittings. 5g and later civic suspensions don't have grease fittings but some aftermarket parts do. OMG those last longer. Just be sure to pack 'em with grease before putting it back on the ground if it did indeed come with grease fittings.

Tools needed: Flat-blade screwdriver, snap-ring pliers, BFH, bearing press or 6" welding clamps or whatever. So specific, I know. The important thing is that you're having fun doing it. Possibly a grease gun.

EDIT: ah what the heck, here are the pics...






This thread wasn't about doing LBJ's, because it throws off the whole 15-minute thing and needs more tools. Enjoy.

Last edited by Jafro; 08-10-08 at 02:31 AM. Reason: adding pics.
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Old 08-11-08, 03:25 PM   #7
lusso64
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Too good! Thanks ever so much for this. I'll attack it (literally) in the next day or 2 and let you know how it went.
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Old 08-12-08, 11:17 PM   #8
lusso64
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Jafro, thanks again for the excellent info. Now it looks like I need to do wheel bearings I checked out your pictures and noticed 2 things....

1. no pics of wheel bearings. I assume that again I can do this at home. Circlip holds them in from the outside, and I'll use the old bearing as a drift to coax the new one in if required.

2. You have a pic showing gas at 1.89 a gallon! ahhh..... the good old days!

Thanks again, Dave
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Old 09-13-08, 12:07 PM   #9
iwade
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Thanks!

Thanks, Jafro!

I just changed the axles in my 1996 TL using hand tools following your directions. The only thing I needed that you didn't mention was a ball-joint puller, then it was a breeze. Much appreciation!
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Old 09-13-08, 03:45 PM   #10
nonbox
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How do you get the ball joint loose from the lower control arm without damage?
Which tool works to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm?
I have used a pickle fork before and it destroyed the ball joint.
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Old 09-19-08, 01:00 AM   #11
Jafro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonbox View Post
How do you get the ball joint loose from the lower control arm without damage?
Which tool works to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm?
I have used a pickle fork before and it destroyed the ball joint.
CLIFF NOTES: RTFM

NOVEL: nonbox, several if not all of the different methods have already been covered in this thread. But I will list the methods again in order of easiest-to-biggest-PITA. Use any of these 4 methods with the details others have shared, and you won't have to replace anything but the axle and a cotter pin. If you don't use one of these methods, instructions are also in this thread for replacing what you broke. :P

1) pry down on the LCA with a pry bar and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This method sorta needs 2 people but it's usually only 1 whack and you're done. Alternate sides if it doesn't, because the stud from the LBJ that goes through the hub is tapered. It's a piece of cake.

2) jack up the rotor to lift the hub assembly, and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This is a great 1-man method, but you have to be more cautious than to just avoid hitting your friend with the hammer, because the jack can make the car unstable if you're not paying attention.

3) ball joint separator. too much hassle. Use only in a pinch. It's like the three bears... This separator is too big, this one is too small. this one mushroomed the bolt anyway... They're clumsy, tedious tools that are harder to find than what's needed for options 1 or 2.

4) leave it connected and disconnect the whole LCA/hub/strut assembly. This really is the most difficult and time consuming option. It's heavier, and requires removing 3 bolts instead of just 1 nut. Putting it back in without help sucks bad, but it can be done if you put down your purse and bleed on it. By the time you've had to resort to this method, there's usually a small crowd gathered and laughing at you so help should be easy to find.

You already have the hammer if you're using a pickle fork in the first place... so you should never have to use the pickle fork on good parts. A pickle fork always destroys the boot, and once the boot goes, the grease leaks out allowing dirt and water to get in it. This causes the joint to fail. Hondas don't come with grease fittings anywhere on their suspension parts to flush that junk out, so it's toast. Unless the boot is already torn, or the joint is already failing, never use a pickle fork.

Last edited by Jafro; 09-19-08 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 09-19-08, 01:08 AM   #12
agent87
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2.5) Unbolt the upper control arm. It's worth trying 1 and 2 but I've had trouble with the BFH and jack methods in the past. Unbolting the upper is the next logical step IMHO.
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Old 09-23-09, 05:24 PM   #13
rlarge98tl
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help

Hi, i have a 98tl 2.5 and was wondering if i can use this diy for this car as well. I need to replace both sides
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Old 09-23-09, 06:32 PM   #14
Jafro
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The tools might be different, but the process should be the same for all CV-axle front ends... unless they have packed bearing assemblies. Pretty much everything made from '92-on has sealed bearings, and a TL fits that demographic so you should be fine. You might have different sized sockets, but that's about it.

PS: Welcome to HAN. Wow there are lots of people in this thread who have ONLY posted here.

Last edited by Jafro; 09-23-09 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 09-23-09, 11:13 PM   #15
nonbox
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I have rusted splines and a prybar doesn't do a good job. Has anyone used a slide hammer tool instead of a prybar to get the axle out? The slide hammer tool will also prevent gouging up the transmission case.

Pics of the slide hammer tool:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace026.jpg


Pics of the crowfoot adapter:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace025.jpg


Thumbnail Pics:

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/
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Old 09-24-09, 06:58 AM   #16
rlarge98tl
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Jafro, thanks for your response, this is a great site and very helpful.
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