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| Do It Yourself This is where you will find step by step instructions so you can Do it Yourself! |
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#31 | |||||||
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MB4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 49
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#32 |
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WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,724
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I don't have the car anymore... but seriously you just bolt it up. Connect the endlinks to the bar while the bar is off the car, the bolt the mounts of the bar to the chassis, then the endlinks to the control arms. Easy.
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Zooming around in a 2006 WRX wagon, because Honda thinks my sport compact wagon niche isn't worth it. (Fit doesn't fit the sport) Loved my 1997 Honda Civic EX sedan 5sp, now sold. |
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#33 | |
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WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
If you don't want to use a spring compressor, then you should use the "leave the top hat bolted to the car and jack the knuckle/arm" method. If I had to do this again, I think I go this route as I think it keeps things aligned better.
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Zooming around in a 2006 WRX wagon, because Honda thinks my sport compact wagon niche isn't worth it. (Fit doesn't fit the sport) Loved my 1997 Honda Civic EX sedan 5sp, now sold. |
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#34 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: houston tx
Posts: 1
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asd
i like that
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#35 |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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I don't have access to air tools, so I was just curious about loosening bolts.
Could I loosen the top bolts before I jack up the car? I don't know how tight these bolts would be and I don't know if I want to be trying to break bolts loose inside the car while it's up in the air. |
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#36 | |
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college kid
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Quote:
-Luke
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y7/y8 mini, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5", 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, crome+freelog+ostrich+lc1 http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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#37 |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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Thanks, I appreciate the help. I'm gonna try and tackle changing out my suspension myself. The rear seems really simple. From what I gather, it seems like three bolts (maybe four) to remove the entire shock/strut from the car.
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#38 |
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college kid
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both front and rears are VERY easy. two bolts on top, two bolts on the bottom. the problem is rust, depending on where you live.
i just installed my koni/gc setup. very happy with the quality of the parts. very unhappy with the total lack of shock travel at any decent amount of lowering. time for some modifications (top hats, fork trick) -Luke
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y7/y8 mini, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5", 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, crome+freelog+ostrich+lc1 http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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#39 | |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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Quote:
Reason I ask is because I just had an alignment done to the car after I got the P/S rack installed about a month ago and was wondering if I need another one after I install my own suspension. |
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#40 |
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college kid
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rule of thumb is yes.
i sort of skipped that on the last suspension install but even daily driven i really didn't notice any out of alignment for the few years i had that setup. even camber wear was on the mild side. i should take it in and have it done this time for safe measure, also need to get the tires rebalanced(my calipers didn't clear the wheel weights :P ) -Luke
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y7/y8 mini, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5", 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, crome+freelog+ostrich+lc1 http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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#41 | |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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Quote:
BTW, what is the appropriate sized nut for that bolt? 14mm? |
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#42 |
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college kid
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are you talking about the top of the strut being threaded and it's not on the new setup? can you post a picture of your new setup you're trying to put in?
-Luke
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y7/y8 mini, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5", 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, crome+freelog+ostrich+lc1 http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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#43 | |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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Quote:
![]() All inclusive coilovers do not have this threading to accomodate the bolt. I'm not sure if OEM is supposed to be similar to this or rear shocks in general have the threading. But I don't have the nut and the coilovers didn't come with any. Do I just go to Lowe's or something and pick up a couple of nuts to help secure this when I install the new suspension? I don't have a problem with the upper half (no upper mounts) but I do understand that I transfer the top hat (I guess that's what they're called) and the bumpstop onto this new coilover when I make the switch. |
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#44 |
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college kid
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yep you'll transfer the stock top hats and bumpstop if the new setup didn't have any. that's kind of odd about the lower rear bracket not having the welded on nut. but yes you can just take the stock bolt and bring it to a store and ask for a grade 8 nut to fit it. you want something durable and strong.
-Luke
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y7/y8 mini, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5", 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, crome+freelog+ostrich+lc1 http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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#45 | |
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Wanderer
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Not so Sunny Cali
Posts: 10,729
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Quote:
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#46 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 2
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i did my fronts on the weekend and it was super easy and im still quite a newbie! im doing the rears soon. i know i should get the alignment done soon, but will it do major damage if i wait afew weeks?
i just finished the rears now and its awesome! it was super easy with this great DIY! Last edited by Duke878; 06-21-08 at 07:39 PM. |
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#47 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1
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Great DIY! I just got the same setup myself today, and the rear shocks have some paint chipped off along the "cup" where the springs sit. Should I worry about the shocks rusting in that area?
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#48 |
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Junior Member
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this is an awesome DIY, i'm going to install some tein basics pretty soon, and it was a great way to familiarize myself
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#49 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 78
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nice diy for everyone!!! yr lucky thoe yr civic has a nut at the top of the front shocks... just my 2 cents for ppl that have a 99-00 there is an allen head at the top of the shock assembly... so make sure you crack it while the shock is still in the car! dont learn the hard way and break an allen trying to hold it and turn while its out of the car!
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#50 |
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F#%K JDM, USDM FTW
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Do I have to take the whole strut apart if I'm just doing lowering springs?
I got in a bit of a jamb and sold my coil overs that were still BNIB. Bought some lowering springs though. |
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#51 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3
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#52 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 60
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Awesome writeup. Did this today and had almost no problems. However, i did break the head off "Bolt 1" in the rear and its at the shop now to be fixed.
The only thing I would like to add is that if you are going to do the washer trick, it is ALOT easier to do while the spring/shock assembly is removed! |
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#53 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Colchester, CT
Posts: 1
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I used this write up last weekend. Instructions were dead on. The only issue I had was breaking the LCA bots. I used an Air Hammer with a chisel to break the welds to get them out. It only took a couple minutes once I came up with the idea.
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#54 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ontario, Kanada
Posts: 24
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Look cool. I have never change a civic suspension in my whole life. I'm gonna try this but not alone.
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#55 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 14
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An answer to an old statement...
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#56 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1
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Thanks for the great DIY
I used this awesome DIY guide to change out my girlfriends shocks on her 1998 Civic Coupe EX. All four shocks were totally wasted, so I installed Bilstein HD (F4-BE5-2336-H0 ) (F4-BE5-2337-H0 )all the way around along with the stock springs. I brought the struts down to a local shop and barrowed their professional strut compressing tools which made the job a lot easier. The bushings all looked worn, but not worn enough to change just yet. While I had everything apart I also did a brake bleed all around. Great instructions and very detailed, you should be very proud of the work you did on this thread.
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