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| Do It Yourself This is where you will find step by step instructions so you can Do it Yourself! |
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#1 | |||||||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 154
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Warm AC......
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"Friends will help you move. Good Friends will help you move bodies." Nihilists! Fuck me. I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos. |
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#2 |
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Honda tech/eprom hackr
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Sadly it sounds like a leak. A/C is usually expensive and not easy to fix by yourself unless you know what to do and have the proper cert. to repair automotive a/c systems. I paid over 400 dollars last summer to fix my girlfriends 93 accord and that was just parts, I did all the labor since I'm a technician. Let's see those parts were like 300 for an evaporator/expansion valve, and about 100 for R12. That was for a leaking evaporator. Just one part and it adds up. You need someone to tell you what's wrong.
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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**Garage Sale** Street Glow 15" Green LED light bar $15 shipped! 96-98 OEM Coupe Grill in perfect condtion.$50+shipping. 99-00 OEM Si Tower Strut Bar (will fit 96-00)$55+shipping New 96-98 CTR Style Front and Rear lips $100 Local P/U only JT Elite Headshield Paintball Mask (used once) $25+shipping 2 iPod 512MB Shuffles Brand New $95 shipped each!
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#4 |
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Rip riding
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That sounds similar to mine. Except one day it was SUPER COLD AC and the very next day, like overnight, the AC was blowing warm. Unless I had a major leak I wonder why mine has done that. Maybe I blew something when installing my stereo that day...
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 154
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Strangely enough, that's when mine crapped out too... I gutted my interior to paint and do the stereo, and after that the AC was warm. It was really wierd... I never thought it would be attributed to the stereo... maybe it's just a fluke....
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"Friends will help you move. Good Friends will help you move bodies." Nihilists! Fuck me. I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,994
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It's always possible you pulled a wire apart somewhere under the dash...
Lots of times when the AC 'suddenly' quits working, it's been leaking for a while. One day it 'suddenly' doesn't have enough pressure for the low-pressure switch. That switch is in there so you don't destroy your compressor by running it anyway.
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JimBlake '03 Accord, '07 Civic '01 Saab 9³, '05 9²x |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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just take the a/c out of there and gain some hp plus they weigh almost 20 lbs
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slammed '92 accord ex sedan ![]() 17" rss daiwa's wrapped in 205/40/17 kumho ecsta tires lowered 3.5 inches on spw coilovers si style tail lights intake, exhaust future mods: my next goal is to paint my trim out then drop an h22 into it......if anybody has one for sale let me know |
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#8 | |
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Honda tech/eprom hackr
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Quote:
^^^^anyone else reading this? He has a good point which I didn't bring up. And he is also right, I should have converted to R134a and in the long run it would have been cheaper. With mine I was concerned about the age of the car and it's a/c componants. I was concerned the compressor wouldn't be able to take the extra stress of conversion. (R134a systems have slightly higher pressures). Nobody will convert your system to R134a and tell you that it will be a guarenteed success and that your compressor won't blow in 2 months. I think chances are it would have been fine but this is my car and i'm wierd that way. Accords seem to convert easily between R12 and R134a without problems, however I would recommend not to do it to a civic with a half condensor/half rad. I have never seen good results from the ones i did it to and i ended up converting them back. The high side pressure always spikes way to high and cooling in the cabin is weak. Around 45-50 f degees. To comment on the R12, Ebay is a good source of old R12, I found it at places like PEP boys, kragens, napa, etc... Here's the catch, you have to have a lic. to buy it. It's called a section 609 and it's easy to get. Do a seach if you're interested. Every year the price goes up. Get it why you can I guess. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 154
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OK, potentially noob question...... what's the difference between R12 and R134a? (anything to do with the difference in 96-98, 99-00 vent systems?) what would the benefits be to doing a convert, and can one be done on a 97 civic (assuming it involves more than just changing the coolant chemical?)
Reminiscing about my AC on the extremely hot drive home today I remembered that before my AC went to crap there were a few times I noticed that when I had it on it looked like dust or even faint smoke was coming out of the vents, it didn't have any scent or anything. AC worked fine while it was doing this, and it did for a summer, by the time the next summer rolled around the AC had crapped out. I thought the stuff was likely dust/dirt from the vents, but who knows... Anyone heard of this? I just can't stand the thought of paying someone 1K+ to fix this.
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"Friends will help you move. Good Friends will help you move bodies." Nihilists! Fuck me. I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,994
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R12 is a better refrigerant, but it hurts the ozone layer & it's now illegal to manufacture it. Still can be bought & used (with a license), but nobody's supposed to be making any more of it.
A '97 almost certainly came with R134a, so there's no conversion needed. Everybody switched over in the early '90s. The mist coming out of your vents was probably water vapor. It was probably on a very humid day, right?
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JimBlake '03 Accord, '07 Civic '01 Saab 9³, '05 9²x |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 968
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I checked my pressure line and the pressure was fine. I checked it with a store bought r134 recharger kit. What else could be causing my a/c to be on the warm side?
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http://img18.photobucket.com/albums/...ht2255/aaz.gif |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 154
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From what I remember the days were more or less just warm days. I don't think it was vapour because at the time it was still cold air and the first time it happened I held my hand up against it for a few minutes to see if anything noticible would stick (condensation, dirt/dust or otherwise) and nothing was visible. I didn't feel anything either (aside from a coolish hand....)
hehehe... Oxbigger........
__________________
"Friends will help you move. Good Friends will help you move bodies." Nihilists! Fuck me. I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos. |
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#13 |
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Honda tech/eprom hackr
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don't worry about the mist right now, those recharge guages suck. Buy or borrow a real guage set. I think harbor frieght has some for R-134a for 49.99 which is super cheap considering snap-on charges close to 300. here's a link:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2435
If you were to buy that you would be in business, then you know exactly what's going on. From the pressures and what hey do you can pretty accurately diagnose what's wrong. Curious, does the compressor come on at all? When you hit the a/c button with the fan speed on at least the first line, does it make a click sound? If you look at the portion of the compressor where the belt rides the outside piece will move with the belt when it's actually running. You should have someone turning the button on then off while you watch. |
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 968
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hondatech, where is the heater valve on 5th gen accords?
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#15 |
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Honda tech/eprom hackr
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It's behind the engine lower pass. side of the fire wall. If you know where the tstat is, follow the heater hose from the outlet back to the firewall and you'll see it. It's a black box looking thing between the hoses, it will lhave a cable attached to it. Have someone move the cold/hot knob in the car and you'll see the cable move back and forth, then you'll know where it is.
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