Civic Flywheel/Clutch Install (58 pics)

[nonbox]

What brand and type of lube do you use when installing a clutch? Which areas do you lube?

[mattyg]

Just wanted to say thank you very much for taking the time to supply this DIY. I always enjoy tearing the car apart when I have a problem and doing things myself but never thought I would be able to do a clutch job. Not only did you make it easy but I was able to do it in a cast b/c of a broken thumb. I had to get some help to take the tranny off and back on but other than that did it myself in like a day and half. The drive when it was all finished was glorious! Thanks again!

[coop3422]

sick DIY. I registered to the site strictly to say thanks for a killer DIY. I bookmarked it, and will prob do it when the snow melts in the spring

[Redshank]

Great instructions on the clutch replacement. This info was far better than a Haynes or Chilton manual. Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks again, Redshank

[kenny8585]

Nice! The read the service manual on changing the the clutch and it seem similar the way you did it. I have never remove a fly wheel in my life but i will since i just brought my first HOnda civic 92 project.

Ken

[eddiel]

I'm pretty noob at this but I will be giving it a try soon. I just have a few questions: After I take out the tranny mounts and clutch housing, do I still need to have the jack support the engine/transmission, or is it safe to remove the jack and let the engine sit on its mounts? Also, why is it necessary to remove the driver side axle? Thanks!

[swaggs21]

I would keep the jack there to keep the motor from to much stress on the other mounts. Doesn't hurt it to be there.

For the dirver side axle I don't believe that the tranny and housing will disengage without it removed.

[kenny8585]

Curious to know about the fork you use to release the ball joint. Did you damage the ball joint after using it? I have the fork but i try using it and the ball joint did came loose. Do i suppose to keep hammering down, side way or something??

[kenny8585]

ANyway, I don't recommend using your the pickle fork because it will do alots of damage and work. Get those ball separator. It look like clamp and screw to separator the lower arm..

[kansasboy81]

i got everything put back together but i still get a ticking noise when the clutch is released and when i push in the clutch it goes away. what else could be making it do that. any help would be great. its a 03 lx if that helps

[nonbox]

Youtube video: Pain free method of removing a Acura Integra lower ball joint using a craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet placed between the hub and lower control arm.

YouTube- Honda painless ball joint separation

[matt80]

thanks for the tut..looks really cool.

[ala_frosty]

I used this yesterday to replace my clutch. It went relatively smoothly in about 9.5 hours in constant drizzle on a '92 Civic. I have to say, it's probably the best set of instructions for a repair of this sort of magnitude that I've ever read and used. Outstanding! I joined this site specifically to thank you and also to provide a bit of feedback.

May I offer a couple of notes about the write-up:

• The shifter pin removal was complicated, for me, by the blurriness of the pictures and the similarity between the end of each of the shifter rods. May I offer the following removal advice:
  1. Push forward (toward the transmission) the rubber accordian cover that extends rearward from the transmission.
  2. Remove the 8mm wide C-clip that surrounds and protects the pin.
  3. Apply some penetrating oil to the pin
  4. Use an oversized punch to punch the pin upward until it is flush with the shaft (about 1 mm)
  5. Use the 5/16 punch to knock the pin upwards through the shift rod.
  6. During reassembly, liberally grease this pin prior to installation.
• I stood a 4x4 and a couple of shims under the motor to hold it up. Without this, on my Gen 5, the whole motor/trans was resting on the upper left motor mount and sags sadly down.
• I removed the transmission from the car completely. There wasn't any place to "rest" it on mine and it dropped down and slid out from under the car really easily. That meant that I could easily get my enormous electric impact wrench in to undo the pressure plate and flywheel bolts.
• When installing the transmission, if you can push the locating dowel to touch the motor, the splines are engaged. If you are hung up before that, then they are not properly engaged.
• To fill the transmission, I removed the vent cap and attached a hose to the vent tube. The front was raised at the time. After 2 quarts, no overflow was coming out of the overflow hole, so I just closed it up. I'd say about 1.5 quarts came out. I probably overfilled it, but while driving, it seems just fine. I'll live with the extra friction.

Personal notes:

• I spent about 45 minutes attempting to remove a "pin" from the u-joint that was actually a rivet I suspect. Fortunately for me, it didn't budge and I didn't really have enough space to whack it too hard. With the above addition (or maybe some clearer pictures), It would've taken me two minutes. My pin popped right out in about five hits with my 10 lb sledge once I started on it.
• On my trans, the speed sensor has two mounting bolts. One of them snapped on me. Grrrr! Right before I went to take it off, I thought .. Do I really need to do this .. everything else has worked, what it this goes wrong .. and sure enough ..
• I had spontaneous ball-joint separation without the need for a separator. First time ever. I wasn't sure whether I should be a bit worried or thankful. I stuck with thankful.

My parts from RockAuto.com:

• Clutch Kit: RHINOPAC Part # 08022 (includes clutch, pressure plate, flywheel bearing, mounting tool and shift rod bearing
• Flywheel: SACHS Part # NFW3611

I was surprised to discover that the "Clutch Kit" did not include the flywheel and had to order it separately. Very annoying! I'm glad I did as both my pressure plate and flywheel showed blue discoloration from clutch overheating at the end of days. Still, the OEM clutch did last 170,000 km, so we got our money out of that.

[shawn7874]

I have a 1992 acura integra ls, this post was a great help for my novice skills. i replaced the clutch, cv axles and motor mounts in one operation it was great. i have one question. my check enigine light is now on and evory thing looks to be in place any suggestions?

[rachely476]

yeah it should take more than 1 hour if you kinda know what you are doing.

[jamec9869]

Damn good guide, I followed it (minus the new flywheel) and everything went fine, took my about 2 days in total but well worth it once its done. Anyone wanting to do it, and who have the patience to do it should check this guide anyday. cheers man.

[Nemo12]

I just logged on to say THANK YOU!

And thanks nonbox, that trick worked perfectly for separating the ball joints.

[Nemo12]

Well I fired her up and the noise I thought was the throw out bearing isn't, so I'm guessing it's the input shaft bearing. When the clutch is pressed it stops, as soon as I release the clutch it comes back. Eff me, that means the whole tranny needs to come out again!

[patrick198]

when you say check bolt i take it you are referring you the filler bolt you remove to check the level of the tranny. because you should feel fluid on the bottom tip of your finger when you reach in the filler bolt free online movies.

you can't check the fluid of the tranny from the drain bolt (the one you put the rachet directly on) since the fluid drains from the drain bolt.

so now i've heard of people removing the filler bolt, AND the speed sensor to fill the tranny fluid through the speed sensor and let it pour out of the filler bolt. that makes absolutely no sense to me.

i mean seriously. i've used a funnel with a tube for years. not issues at all.

frankly i've seen 2 speed sensors break when removed.

i advice you use the filler bolt to fill the tranny.

also have the car level will filling the tranny, if the front's jacked up, fluid comes out of the tranny before it's actually full.

it's also not a bad idea to replace the washer on the drain bolt when you do it.

Hi guys, Im a newbie. Nice to join this forum.

[raconj]

im going to tackle this soon . ordered my clutch i also need to replace both axles joints are clicking(for the second time) i also didnt order a new flywheel which i think i should have. ive done the head gasket and other misc things. just did a clutch on a miata yesterday and it only took about 5 hours. thanks for the post i will follow it : )

[serious_hatch]

Is the pilot bearing suppose to move back and forth? Or is it supposed to stay put?

[serious_hatch]

I am installing a new clutch kit but keeping the flywheel that is on the car...I noticed my pilot bearing moves in and out (back and forth)...is it suppose to do that? please help..I need this car running ASAP!!

[Nemo12]

The pilot bearing should not move around easily, it should fit snug.

[Javier Gonzalez Jr]

Hello i have a 98 civic ex coupe manual transmission, my car just stopped moving even while it was in gear would just sit there and rev up, so i purchased a Duralast Clutch Set from autozone and installed it following this tutorial, did not replace the flywheel though, after doing this my car's vtec wouldnt engage because i had accidentally broken the coolant temperature sensor so i then replaced that as well and everything was working great [= however after i drove it across town a week or two later it broke down again while i was driving same issue car goes into gear but angine just revs up wont move forward or reverse either, i did however notice when i was being pulled (truck and chain) [car was on for easy steering and a/c =)] my speedometer stayed at 0 the whole time this had not been happening before it broke down this time. i want to know if the vss could cause this or possibly not bleeding the clutch? any opinions would be great as i really rather not do the whole procedure all over again /=

[Sublim3]

Thank you
I registered because i fallowed this tut to do my clutch/flywheel, plus replace the pass axle/control arm. I am @ the clutch (i have full new clutch kit w/ bearings and new oem flywheel) and the 2 closest auto parts stores are knecks and autozone which neither of them carry 12point sockets!!!! So i ended up getting spline/universal socket sets from both stores... none of the sockets work (hahahahaha) so i have my tran in the garage to clean while i find a store across town that prob will have it like baxters or Stewarts.

BTW, should i be looking for any new gaskets while im @ this point? and am i able to pop open the tranny w/o new gaskets to check on the gears (94' civic d16z6) ? TY!

[ala_frosty]

Oops .. never mind. I can't figure out how to delete it.

[kensaysrawr]

Do you think this will be difficult on a 93 Del sol si (d16z6) -the vtec version of the motor that was used in the write up.
I mean is the procedure exactly the same?

[kensaysrawr]

Air in the clutch line maybe? do you have any oil leaking around your clutch pedal? If so, your master cylinder might have crapped out on you. I'm just throwing out ideas. I'm sure someone knows more than me.

[little100]

Great Write Up

[swaggs21]

Do you think this will be difficult on a 93 Del sol si (d16z6) -the vtec version of the motor that was used in the write up.
I mean is the procedure exactly the same?

This was done on a D16Y8, and the process is almost identical for a Z6, you won't have any problems if you follow this writeup for the Z6