'92-'95 Civic Ingalls Camber Kit Install
03-08-2004, 06:44 PM
#1
Still here... sorta...
Thread Starter
'92-'95 Civic Ingalls Camber Kit Install
Tools Needed
- basic tools required to remove your wheel
- jack
- ratchet
- 14 mm wrench
- 18 mm wrench
- 22 mm wrench
- 14 mm socket
- 17 mm socket
- 6 in ratchet extension
- crow bar (optional)
The Install
Front
- Start out by removing the wheel of the side you're working on.
- Use the 17mm socket to remove the strut tower bolts (see pics)
- With the nuts removed, pull the upper control arm down from the strut tower
- Use your 14mm wrench and socket or 2 14mm wrenches to remove the control arm bushings
- When both bolts are removed, slide the bushings out of the control arm
- Swing the upper control arm away from the strut so you can work with getting the bushins away from the car
- Be careful not to pull the upper control arm too far away from the car because you can accidentally separate the CV joint
- Slide the bushings down to the base of the strut so you can get them off of the car
- Compare the stock bushings with the new adjusters.
- I didn't need but a little adjustment in the front. I needed the top of the wheel to move away from the car to get my wheels vertical again.
- By comparing I could see that I only needed the adjustment to be as far inside as possible.
- When you're hapy with the adjustment, tighten the slider down with a 14mm socket or wrench.
- Install the new adjusters just like you removed the old bushings.
- I had to tighten them down pretty hard because they were a little more narrow than the OEM bushings.
- Once installed, push the adjuster bolts back up into the holes.
- I used the crow bar to hold the adjuster bolt up into the hole so I could adjust my strut tower brace to where I needed it and I could keep the bolt up far enough to put the nut back on.
- This is the finished product.
Rear
- Remove the rear wheel.
- Remove the 14mm bolt that connects the stabilizer arm to the trailing arm.
- Be aware that removing this bolt will shift the trailing arm away from the car rather abruptly.
- Then, remove the 2 14mm bolts holding the stabilizer arm to the chassis.
- Once you have the arm off, compare the length of the OEM arm to the Ingalls arm so you can adjust it to the appx. length.
- The adjuster requires a 22mm wrench to loosen/tighten the lock nuts and an 18mm wrench to rotate the center bolt (adjuster).
- One side of the center adjuster bolt is 'right-to-tight' on one side and 'left-to-tight' (or reverse threaded).
- Be sure not to tighten one side of the adjuster bolt all the way into the female end. Try to keep the center of the adjuster bolt equidistant from each female end (see pic)
- Also, make note of which side of the OEM bar is taller so you can put the Ingalls adjuster arm on the same way.
- Intall the new adjustable stabilizer arm by first putting the trailing arm part on.
- Remember that the trailing arm shifted, now the new stabilizer arm won't meet up with the chassis.
- I put my wheel back on with only 1 lug nut and lowered the car enough so that the wheel is getting some weight of the car but not too much so that you can't manipulate the wheel.
- Now, you can push the top of the wheel toward the car and it will make it so that the new stabilizer bar is close enough to get the bolts into the chassis.
- With the bolts started, you can now remove the wheel again and tighten up the bolts using the 6" extension (makes it easier, but not required).
- Be sure to tighten the 22mm locking nuts!!!
- That does it! Put the wheel back on and you're good.
Follow Up
Front
- When I sat the car back down, I could see that the front wheels' toe adjustment was pretty far off. The wheels pointed outward just a bit like this \ /
- I drove it for a day and couldn't stand it anymore even though I planned to get it all aligned the next day.
- I drove the car in a straight line for a few feet just to be sure the wheels where in their 'straight' position.
- I jacked up the front of the car and left the wheels on.
- I loosened the 22mm locking nut and then used a 14mm wrench to rotate the adjuster (clockwise = pushes rear of the wheel out & couner-clockwise = pulls rear of the wheel in)
- I made these adjustments and eyeballed the toe. It's not exact by any means but at least I could drive it to the alignment shop and not have to worry about tearing up the tires so much.
- I also made sure to check the position of the steering wheel now and then to be sure it was straight. It's very easy to turn the wheels when the front is off the ground and I didn't want to skew the results by having the steering wheel rotated at all.
- Once I was happy with the adjustment, I tightened the locking nut back up and repeated on the other side.
Rear
- When I put the car back down, I noticed that I had adjusted the rear adjuster too long so the top of the wheel was pushed out too far.
- I jacked the back end up enough so I could adjust and still see the wheel moving.
- I used the 22mm wrench to loosen the locking nuts and then the 18mm wrench to adjust the center adjusting bolt.
- Rotating the adjuster bolt clockwise moves the top of the wheel out, counter-clockwise moves it inward.
- Once I was happy with where it was sitting I tightened the lock nuts and moved to the other side.
Be sure to have the alignment set by a professional or a shop with the correct equipment when you're done. The camber kit is made to fix camber and help to wear your tires evenly. Without the proper alignment, your tires will wear faster than before. BE AWARE OF THIS!
That's it, hope it helps someone.
Josh
- basic tools required to remove your wheel
- jack
- ratchet
- 14 mm wrench
- 18 mm wrench
- 22 mm wrench
- 14 mm socket
- 17 mm socket
- 6 in ratchet extension
- crow bar (optional)
The Install
Front
- Start out by removing the wheel of the side you're working on.
- Use the 17mm socket to remove the strut tower bolts (see pics)
- With the nuts removed, pull the upper control arm down from the strut tower
- Use your 14mm wrench and socket or 2 14mm wrenches to remove the control arm bushings
- When both bolts are removed, slide the bushings out of the control arm
- Swing the upper control arm away from the strut so you can work with getting the bushins away from the car
- Be careful not to pull the upper control arm too far away from the car because you can accidentally separate the CV joint
- Slide the bushings down to the base of the strut so you can get them off of the car
- Compare the stock bushings with the new adjusters.
- I didn't need but a little adjustment in the front. I needed the top of the wheel to move away from the car to get my wheels vertical again.
- By comparing I could see that I only needed the adjustment to be as far inside as possible.
- When you're hapy with the adjustment, tighten the slider down with a 14mm socket or wrench.
- Install the new adjusters just like you removed the old bushings.
- I had to tighten them down pretty hard because they were a little more narrow than the OEM bushings.
- Once installed, push the adjuster bolts back up into the holes.
- I used the crow bar to hold the adjuster bolt up into the hole so I could adjust my strut tower brace to where I needed it and I could keep the bolt up far enough to put the nut back on.
- This is the finished product.
Rear
- Remove the rear wheel.
- Remove the 14mm bolt that connects the stabilizer arm to the trailing arm.
- Be aware that removing this bolt will shift the trailing arm away from the car rather abruptly.
- Then, remove the 2 14mm bolts holding the stabilizer arm to the chassis.
- Once you have the arm off, compare the length of the OEM arm to the Ingalls arm so you can adjust it to the appx. length.
- The adjuster requires a 22mm wrench to loosen/tighten the lock nuts and an 18mm wrench to rotate the center bolt (adjuster).
- One side of the center adjuster bolt is 'right-to-tight' on one side and 'left-to-tight' (or reverse threaded).
- Be sure not to tighten one side of the adjuster bolt all the way into the female end. Try to keep the center of the adjuster bolt equidistant from each female end (see pic)
- Also, make note of which side of the OEM bar is taller so you can put the Ingalls adjuster arm on the same way.
- Intall the new adjustable stabilizer arm by first putting the trailing arm part on.
- Remember that the trailing arm shifted, now the new stabilizer arm won't meet up with the chassis.
- I put my wheel back on with only 1 lug nut and lowered the car enough so that the wheel is getting some weight of the car but not too much so that you can't manipulate the wheel.
- Now, you can push the top of the wheel toward the car and it will make it so that the new stabilizer bar is close enough to get the bolts into the chassis.
- With the bolts started, you can now remove the wheel again and tighten up the bolts using the 6" extension (makes it easier, but not required).
- Be sure to tighten the 22mm locking nuts!!!
- That does it! Put the wheel back on and you're good.
Follow Up
Front
- When I sat the car back down, I could see that the front wheels' toe adjustment was pretty far off. The wheels pointed outward just a bit like this \ /
- I drove it for a day and couldn't stand it anymore even though I planned to get it all aligned the next day.
- I drove the car in a straight line for a few feet just to be sure the wheels where in their 'straight' position.
- I jacked up the front of the car and left the wheels on.
- I loosened the 22mm locking nut and then used a 14mm wrench to rotate the adjuster (clockwise = pushes rear of the wheel out & couner-clockwise = pulls rear of the wheel in)
- I made these adjustments and eyeballed the toe. It's not exact by any means but at least I could drive it to the alignment shop and not have to worry about tearing up the tires so much.
- I also made sure to check the position of the steering wheel now and then to be sure it was straight. It's very easy to turn the wheels when the front is off the ground and I didn't want to skew the results by having the steering wheel rotated at all.
- Once I was happy with the adjustment, I tightened the locking nut back up and repeated on the other side.
Rear
- When I put the car back down, I noticed that I had adjusted the rear adjuster too long so the top of the wheel was pushed out too far.
- I jacked the back end up enough so I could adjust and still see the wheel moving.
- I used the 22mm wrench to loosen the locking nuts and then the 18mm wrench to adjust the center adjusting bolt.
- Rotating the adjuster bolt clockwise moves the top of the wheel out, counter-clockwise moves it inward.
- Once I was happy with where it was sitting I tightened the lock nuts and moved to the other side.
Be sure to have the alignment set by a professional or a shop with the correct equipment when you're done. The camber kit is made to fix camber and help to wear your tires evenly. Without the proper alignment, your tires will wear faster than before. BE AWARE OF THIS!
That's it, hope it helps someone.
Josh
03-08-2004, 08:44 PM
#3
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https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=55011
Sorry Josh, but I was first.
Just messing around. Good write up.
Sorry Josh, but I was first.
Just messing around. Good write up.
03-08-2004, 09:47 PM
#5
Still here... sorta...
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by agent87
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=55011
Sorry Josh, but I was first.
Just messing around. Good write up.
Sorry Josh, but I was first.
Just messing around. Good write up.
:chuckles:
My way's easier, I didn't take the struts out. :hugglez:
If mine squeak I'll do that little trick you mentioned.
03-08-2004, 10:11 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
Bish! :uhhok:
:chuckles:
My way's easier, I didn't take the struts out. :hugglez:
If mine squeak I'll do that little trick you mentioned.
:chuckles:
My way's easier, I didn't take the struts out. :hugglez:
If mine squeak I'll do that little trick you mentioned.
Good point, for some reason, I wasn't thinking about how to do it without removing the damper assembly.
h: But at least people doing the install can look at both writeups and have a really good idea of what needs to be done.
03-09-2004, 10:43 AM
#9
Still here... sorta...
Thread Starter
Some guy on here sent them to me. I went through some crap with him to get them and really thought he scammed me, but it ended up working out.
I actually didn't use any lube on them because they were used. If I were to use some later, it would be that really thick white litium that comes with the Energy Suspension kit. That stuff is awesome!
I actually didn't use any lube on them because they were used. If I were to use some later, it would be that really thick white litium that comes with the Energy Suspension kit. That stuff is awesome!
03-17-2004, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
Some guy on here sent them to me. I went through some crap with him to get them and really thought he scammed me, but it ended up working out.
I actually didn't use any lube on them because they were used. If I were to use some later, it would be that really thick white litium that comes with the Energy Suspension kit. That stuff is awesome!
I actually didn't use any lube on them because they were used. If I were to use some later, it would be that really thick white litium that comes with the Energy Suspension kit. That stuff is awesome!