cpvdh

alright got a question for you
oxidation has eaten through the clear coat on the roof, 2 small spots like 3 inch circles
whats the best easiest cheapest way to fix it
can i get by with wetsanding and then do some clear over it?
could i buff it out and then seal it? what do you guys do?

Detailed Image

To get quality results you'll want to wetsand the area. I'd suggest grabbing 1500grit, 2000grit and 2500/3000grit sand paper. Soak them overnight prior to the wetsanding.

Treat the area with a thorough wash dry, claybar (if you have it available) and rub the area with some isopropal alcohol. What this will do is properly prep the surface as well as remove any remaining wax / protection on the surface.

If you are going to apply more clear coat do that now. Let it cure for 24-48 hrs before wetsanding. Multiple coats may be required for a uniform look.

Starting with the lowest grit sandpaper begin to wetsand the area, using a dab of automotive shampoo on the surface to help with lubrication. Mist the area with water or redunk the paper in the water to ensure a properly lubricated surface. Continue wetsanding with each grade of sandpaper going as high as you can.

When you are done you will be looking to remove the wetsanding marks. For this you will need a compound. I personally like using Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover Line. It comes in 4 grades of aggressiveness. SSR 3, SSR 2.5, SSR 2 and SSR 1 (from most aggressive to least aggressive). To remove wetsanding marks you generally need at least the SSR 2.5 or SSR 3 and make sure you follow up with the SSR 1 to clean up any remaining haze. An off the shelf brand I'd suggest would be 3M.

After obtaining the proper finish that is desired by using the different Polishes / Comounds, remember to seal in your work with a sealant or wax.

Hope this helps, let me know if you wish for me to elaborate on anything.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

redgoober4life

I've read your posts on E46Fanatics (I think my name is AccordGoob on there). I used to offer my advice on there, but yours is so timely and comprehensive that I have little to add. Good Luck!

Detailed Image

Thank you for the positive feedback. By no means do I feel I know everything there is to know about detailing, and like I said, I'm still continuing to learn as new products, processes and techniques become available. Now that there is a dedicated section to detailing I hope this part of the forum becomes more active!

Stick around your input is always welcome and do not hesitate to correct me if you see something I overlooked or mistated. I always enjoy speaking with other detailing enthusiasts.

George @ Detailed Image

cpvdh

so apply some clear first?
i can chip at the clear with my fingernail so i thought prepping the surface before the clear would be needed?
also i intend on just using some cheap auto clear spray can paint, any pointers
wetsanding and polishing should be easy, ive done that before and its a small area, should be able to get by without a buffer

another question for you, everyone loves the porter cable buffer, but its $100 and i wouldnt use it real often, my cars paint isnt really worth the trouble of keeping it pristine, is there a cheap like $25 option that is worth while, or just stick to by hand if i cant get the real deal?

thanks for the insight, nice to have timely feedback from a qualified source thats willing to help us all out

Detailed Image

Usually what you would do is treat it like a touch up, overlapping the loose, dead clear coat with the new clear coat, then wet sand it down. If its really bad, feel free to do some light wetsanding to remove any of the really dead clear around the edges.

Buying a Porter Cable buffer is a solid investment because its one of the few random orbitals that can generate enough heat and power to generate results similar to a rotary buffer without many of the downsides and worries of a rotary buffer. Honestly I wouldn't put my money anywhere else. Cheap buffers are fine for applying a glaze, sealant or wax, but not effective when trying to remove imperfections in your paint such as swirls, scratches, oxidation and water marks.

This is an excellent alternative though to buying a Porter Cable if you plan on continue to do work by hand.

Lake Country Hand Pad Kit

It gives you the ability to use the same type of pads as you would with the Porter Cable and tailor each pad to the job you are doing.

Yellow Cutting Pad for abrasive polishes when you are trying to remove scratches and swirls

White Polishing Pad for finishing polishes to clean up hazing or very light swirls

Blue Finishing Pad for finishing polishes or glazes

Black Finessing Pad to apply a sealant or wax.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

redgoober4life

The Porter Cable is great. I really like my Cyclo, but you can correct some pretty nasty oxidation and scratches with the PC and a cutting pad. It's also very safe.

By "cutting" pad, they mean that the pad is dense foam. Think of a firm mattress and a plush mattress. A firmer surface can transfer energy (heat) more efficiently. Of course, you can get some marring with a cutting pad (very rarely), which is why you would go to a softer polishing pad and not just buy one type of pad.

Bottom line: The PC will make paint correction easier. I was so happy when I first used mine. If you can swing it, go for it. You can get a similar finish by hand, but it takes much more time and work.

cpvdh

kick ass
its finally nice enough outside here in oregon to fix my paint up a bit
thanks for the help, i will probably fix it up this weekend and then i can clean up the cloudy headlights as well
will also follow your washing/clay bar/polish/wax whatever else tips
thank you

loafeidb

I have a question.....

We have the unpaved road in my town that is basically the only way to go throug, They have put oil or tar , I dunno , And it is on my paint and it is extremely hard to get off , even if i apply alot of pressure , all it does is smear , It feel like hardened pieces of tar.

Is there anything I can spray on or do to get it off?

Detailed Image

For those situations I really do like Stoner's Tarminator. I don't carry it but many local stores will. Mineral Spirits can work wonders as well, but make sure if you use either of these products, you follow up with a polish and protection (sealant / wax).

George @ Detailed Image