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Is it possible to replace brake pads w/o a need to bleed the brakes?
was wondering, is there a way to pull off the old pads, compress the piston and slide new pads on w/o introducing air into the system and hte need to bleed them (like not undoing the banjo fitting/bolt???)?
any tips or mistakes to avoid in trying to do this?
this is a 94 accord EX w/ ABS btw
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Yea you can change brake pads without having to bleed your brakes.
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any diff procedures or tips? or tools i should be using?
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Originally posted by TypeSH
any diff procedures or tips? or tools i should be using?
No not really, just as you described in your initial post is exactly the way to go about changing your pads!
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un-Touch'd krew
As long as you don't remove the brake line there is no reason you should have to bleed the brakes....except if you pump the brakes with the brake fluid cap off.
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
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Mr Clutch
Originally posted by TypeSH
any diff procedures or tips? or tools i should be using?
All you need is a ratchet set, I dont remember the socket size.
I used a tire rod to push the front pistons back in, so that there was romm for the new pads.
Then for the rear, I used needle nose pliers, with a twist and push motion to make room for the pads.
It was pretty easy.
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Go about taking off your calipers, I can't remember the size either, I wanna say 17mm. Pull off your hold pads, match them with the new ones. Use some vice grips or similar "clamp" tool to compress the caliper piston. Then install, and tighten. Hand tools makes me love air tools
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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so i wont damage anything by not taking off the banjo bolt? my haynes repair manual says i should remove the banjo bolt when i do this. so i wasnt sure if it'd work w/o doing so
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I usually just take off the caliper and pop off the pads. It's not tough at all. I'm not sure exactly what a banjo bolt is, but if you unbolt the caliper, it usually hangs by the brake line, but won't fall.
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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banjo bolt and fitting = brake line end/fitting, where fluid runs thru a small hole in the bolt.
thanks guys! im gonna try it next week.
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Oh ok, I know what that is, then nope, don't need to take that off.
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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Jizz Maste12
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A vice grip goes over both sides of the piston, passing over the middle. The C clamp will usually get one side risking an un-even clamp or tearing the piston "boot".
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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Jizz Maste12
Originally posted by teamlegacy
A vice grip goes over both sides of the piston, passing over the middle. The C clamp will usually get one side risking an un-even clamp or tearing the piston "boot".
what are you talking about it fits perfectly. The round part of the C-clamp goes right over\into the Piston

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Into, yea that would work, didn't think about that.
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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Jizz Maste12
another wrinkle in da brain hehehe Jk
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It's been a long day...read my post.
xXx legacy performance 2003 xXx
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Jizz Maste12
when you learn something (gain knowledge) you get wrinkles in the brain
ah another wrinkle in your your brain hahaha keep learning new things huh. hahaha jk
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www.poksquid.com
i'd still bleed them... but that's me.... i have this thing with wanting to stop... lol... you can do it but i'm not sure its safe...
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Why would anyone bleed the system if you can just sqeeze the piston back when simply replacing pads? It seems much easier not to bleed. Am I missing something?
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www.poksquid.com
to my understanding... pressing the "piston" back in with a closed system can burst your lines if given enough pressure. this is why the lines are opened and then bled for any air that may be in the line...
but if everyone else seems to have no problems the i guess it's up to whomever does it...
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you can rotate the part on the back of the caliper... it has the large "+" thing on it. use needlenose pliers to rotate it and the piston with retract
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On the FRONT calipers, you just have to push the piston back in. There's no build-up of pressure. As long as nobody's stepping on the brake pedal, the fluid just pushes back into the reservoir. Make sure it doesn't overflow & make a mess.
On the REAR calipers, the handbrake mechanism prevents the piston from simply pushing in. So you have to turn it, like you're screwing it in. Be careful you don't tear the rubber dust-boot around the piston.
Front and rear, be certain you don't let the caliper hang by its hose. The weight of the caliper can damage the hose, then someday it'll burst. That's not good.
You don't have to bleed them if you just change pads. But a lot of people use the opportunity to flush fresh fluid thru the system by bleeding it. You should do that at least every 2 years, anyway. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air & that makes it corrosive.
JimBlake
'03 Accord, '07 Civic
'01 Saab 9³, '05 9²x
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Mr Clutch
The Haynes manual says that you dont have to bleed the brakes in order to replace the pads.
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I just did the brakes on my wife's Acura.....quite simple.
Remove the bottom caliper bolt and loosen the top one. Turn the caliper up and let it rest.
Remove the old outer pad.
Pop open the bleeder screw and hook on a hose leading to a bottle you dont mind getting fluid in.
Get your C-clamp and clamp it down onto the remaining inner pad, and tighten it until the piston is down all the way.
Tighten bleeder bolt.
Install new pads onto the hub in the retaining clips, then "drop" the caliper over them and tighten/replace the caliper bolts.
Took me about 25 minutes to change the front brakes this way.
Also, dont forget to replace and/or lube the brake pad shims. I also replaced the rear calipers on the same car, but made the mistake of buying cheaper quality "loaded" calipers. Without the lube behind the shims, they squeal like crazy.
-Chris
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Jizz Maste12
Originally posted by chrisexv6
I just did the brakes on my wife's Acura.....quite simple.
Also, dont forget to replace and/or lube the brake pad shims. I also replaced the rear calipers on the same car, but made the mistake of buying cheaper quality "loaded" calipers. Without the lube behind the shims, they squeal like crazy.
-Chris
shouldnt be cheap on the most important thing on the car.
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hey. quick question. i recently bought new brake calipers for my car and i have an idea of how to change them, but if anyone can give me the specifics on EXACTLY how to do it, please help. thanks!
this is for the front of a 1994 honda accord ex coup BTW..
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Originally posted by b12uceHuy
shouldnt be cheap on the most important thing on the car.
Heh....price isnt everything. Her dad insisted she go to Meineke for the last brake change. Cost almost as much as having Acura do it, and for some reason the car never broke right again.
Now that the Meineke pads were finally dead, I was able to replace them. Turns out they used the completely wrong pads.
My 14.00 pads are better than what they used.
And I forgot to mention this is on an '86 Legend with 90K miles. Id rather not spend 40.00 on brake pads for a car thats worth a max of 1000.00, on a good day. I plan to get rid of it soon..........its leaking oil like a sieve, and the tranny shifts so hard stuff inside the console hops.
-Chris
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Honda-Acura
Honda S2000
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