Need help Diagnosing Clutch problems
#1
Need help Diagnosing Clutch problems
I have a 99 accord with almost 130k on it. 110k of those miles are mine, and the car has given me minimal headaches.
Nothing serioulsy mechanical wrong, except the 3-4 synchro is 75% fried (3rd gear is almost unusable, and 4th grinds half the time unless I double-clutch correctly, however that's from being lazy and not using the clutch and wearing it out.
Anyway, My clutch pedal over time has become less and less responsive. I now have to push it completely to the floor to disengage the clutch and shift into gear. You know that fake pedal thing to rest your foot on? It has to go PAST that, all the way down and driven into the carpet. I had to slide my seat forward a couple notches so I could have more leg power.
Well, my left foot hurts, and I want to fix it.
I checked the clutch master cylinder and it was a tad low, so I topped it off. There was absolutely no change in the pedal.
It seems to me like a lack of pressure, but I have been pumping the pedal as much as I can trying to see if I'm losing fluid, and so far it doesn't seem like I am. Over 6 years I have never checked the fluid level, and it was only at the "min" line. I would think over that much time if there was a leak, it would have been dry.
Could there be air in the line? How do you bleed a clutch line?
Thanks for reading. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Nothing serioulsy mechanical wrong, except the 3-4 synchro is 75% fried (3rd gear is almost unusable, and 4th grinds half the time unless I double-clutch correctly, however that's from being lazy and not using the clutch and wearing it out.
Anyway, My clutch pedal over time has become less and less responsive. I now have to push it completely to the floor to disengage the clutch and shift into gear. You know that fake pedal thing to rest your foot on? It has to go PAST that, all the way down and driven into the carpet. I had to slide my seat forward a couple notches so I could have more leg power.
Well, my left foot hurts, and I want to fix it.
I checked the clutch master cylinder and it was a tad low, so I topped it off. There was absolutely no change in the pedal.
It seems to me like a lack of pressure, but I have been pumping the pedal as much as I can trying to see if I'm losing fluid, and so far it doesn't seem like I am. Over 6 years I have never checked the fluid level, and it was only at the "min" line. I would think over that much time if there was a leak, it would have been dry.
Could there be air in the line? How do you bleed a clutch line?
Thanks for reading. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
#2
1. Check for leaks on the master and slave cylinder and lines.
2. Bleed the system. Pump it up have some one hold the pedal down and open the bleed screw. It is located on the slave cylinder. Close the bleed screw. Repeat several time you will have to pull the pedal off the floor and pump it up till it feels nice before repeating.
3. Take out the trans and look for clutch failure.
2. Bleed the system. Pump it up have some one hold the pedal down and open the bleed screw. It is located on the slave cylinder. Close the bleed screw. Repeat several time you will have to pull the pedal off the floor and pump it up till it feels nice before repeating.
3. Take out the trans and look for clutch failure.
#3
sounds like 3 - 4 gear are pretty grinded away. shifting with out the clutch in a standard car is not the best idea. unlike a diesel trans witch is made to shift without a clutch, a production car needs the clutch to disengage each gear before shifting. not doing that can easily wear out the teeth in a gear prematurly.I would do what fuse said and try to bleed the system first to see what happens. who knows, start with the small stuff first before waisting money on unneeded parts or mechanic labor time.
#4
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All you now have to do is shift properly, I'm not at all convinced that anything is wrong besides the synchros that you fried.
Manuals & anyone that knows about cars will tell you that you put the clutch pedal to the floor on each shift for a reason - those that ignore this are lucky to only have to replace the synchros.
Manuals & anyone that knows about cars will tell you that you put the clutch pedal to the floor on each shift for a reason - those that ignore this are lucky to only have to replace the synchros.
#5
bboy Wesley West
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how much pedal freeplay do you have?
i just recently did a clutch job and had this problem. we changed the clutch master, slave, entire clutch job, resurfaced flywheel, bench bleed master and bleed 12oz worth of fluid.
all it needed was an adjustment of pedal/rod freeplay and it was good to go :lmao:
i just recently did a clutch job and had this problem. we changed the clutch master, slave, entire clutch job, resurfaced flywheel, bench bleed master and bleed 12oz worth of fluid.
all it needed was an adjustment of pedal/rod freeplay and it was good to go :lmao:
#6
You guys every thought that maybe it's not him, and it's the clutch system?
Stop flaming the kid about how he drives, he's done good for the last 110k miles did he not?
With that said, check for something called an internal leak on the cylinders. This is how you would check.
Have you foot on the brakes, and put it in neutral. Clutch into the highest gear you have, and keep your clutch depressed, don't wllow it to return. Let it sit there like that, and I bet within 10 seconds, your engine will stall. That's evidence of an internal leak in one of the cylinders. You won't notice this type of leak by looking at the fluid level.
Good luck.
Stop flaming the kid about how he drives, he's done good for the last 110k miles did he not?
With that said, check for something called an internal leak on the cylinders. This is how you would check.
Have you foot on the brakes, and put it in neutral. Clutch into the highest gear you have, and keep your clutch depressed, don't wllow it to return. Let it sit there like that, and I bet within 10 seconds, your engine will stall. That's evidence of an internal leak in one of the cylinders. You won't notice this type of leak by looking at the fluid level.
Good luck.
#7
Over the weekend, I bled the system, and ran completely new brake fluid in. No leaks in the cylinders or line.
I found out what was wrong when I was driving home This monday.
I noticed that the pedal wasn't in the right place. I used to be able to rest my left foot on the false pedal. Well, I noticed that the clutch pedal was hitting my foot, and it hadn't been like that before. I started pulling on it with my foot, and I was able to move it.
Weird.
Curiosity got the best of me, and I was messing around with it, --- and it broke off... in traffic, mind you. I was able to reach a garage only having to stop twice in traffic. It's not easy getting the car going from a complete stop with no clutch pedal, lemme tell you.
Apparently the pedal was partially broken where it mounts to the car, and so much of the motion of pressing it down was being wasted though the torn metal, and I was forced to push the pedal substantially further than normal so the hydraulics would kick in.
The pedal didn't exhibit abnormal freeplay, it just didn't even begin disengaging the clutch until it was practically touching the floor.
I found out what was wrong when I was driving home This monday.
I noticed that the pedal wasn't in the right place. I used to be able to rest my left foot on the false pedal. Well, I noticed that the clutch pedal was hitting my foot, and it hadn't been like that before. I started pulling on it with my foot, and I was able to move it.
Weird.
Curiosity got the best of me, and I was messing around with it, --- and it broke off... in traffic, mind you. I was able to reach a garage only having to stop twice in traffic. It's not easy getting the car going from a complete stop with no clutch pedal, lemme tell you.
Apparently the pedal was partially broken where it mounts to the car, and so much of the motion of pressing it down was being wasted though the torn metal, and I was forced to push the pedal substantially further than normal so the hydraulics would kick in.
The pedal didn't exhibit abnormal freeplay, it just didn't even begin disengaging the clutch until it was practically touching the floor.