webie

My 2000 Accord EX (4cyl) has 105k now. The car is working in top condition except for an intermittent “Rough Idle” and an intermittent “No Horn” problem. The first one I think is the “IACV”. The other one the dealer told me is the “steering wheel column” which is supposedly a common cause for intermittent horn problems on those Accords.

Now here comes my question… I want to invest no more than $1K on parts and labor to get my car on top condition on the following 2-3 months. I want to identify which parts should I think of replace with this type of mileage even if they are not failing? Just want to extend the efficiency and life of the car.

Here is what I have in mind:

1. IACV - $135.00 (Original)
2. MAP Sensor – $67.00 (It gave me a CEL at 90K. I cleaned and reset and haven’t CEL back) (Original)
3. EGR - $100.00 (Original)
4. Front Shocks - $92.00 ea (Replaced under warranty at 35K)
5. Rear Shocks - $95.00 ea (Replaced under warranty at 35K)
6. Power Steering Belt - $10 (Original)
7. AC / Alternator Belt - $15 (Original)

Here is what I have recently replaced or done:

1. Oxygen Sensor (103K)
2. SeaFoam / TB (~96K)
3. PCV (101K)
4. Coolant Flush (90K)
5. Brake Pads and Flush (101K)
6. Oil Change (104K)
7. Transmission Replaced under Warranty (~92K)
8. Battery (104K)
9. OPDS Sensor / Unit (103K)
10. Sparks (100K)
11. Timing Belt (92K)
12. New Tires (90K) / Rotation every 6K
13. Air Filter (K&N – I recharge it every now / then, I will probably recharge it again next month)
14. AC Filter (I have the filters and probably replace them next month. Last time I check them (at 102K) they didn’t seam so dirty)

Other things I have think of:

1. Sparks Cables / Distributor
2. Alignment
3. Steering Column (To solve the Horn problem as recommended by dealer, but is $275.00 part only. Ouch… But sometimes the horn does not sound when it is most need. I think it’s most a security issue than a necessity)

Any other recommendation?

98CoupeV6

Looks like you've done a better job than most.

You should never have to replace the dist. unless it fails. New wires might help, but you can test their resistance and compare it to the factory spec if you don't want to spend the money.

$1k is ridiculous...I'm not sure why you're hell bent on spending so much money. Keep doing your routine maintenance until something breaks. You can clean the IACV and EGR ports, rarely do either of those two need a replacement part after only 100k miles.

e3NiNe

Alternators typically go at any time.

All your drive belts have to be changed at 90K

98CoupeV6

Not so much on the I4, and you get a 3-4k mile warning via very obvious symptoms.

webie

I was thinking on cleaning the IACV, but it seams so hard to reach. I think I will have to remove the TB completely to reach in. The EGR, although it is no so hard to reach, the space to work is very limited. That’s why I’m thinking of replace them at the dealer. I just buy the parts (which they charge over 45% the price I get) and pay the hour rate which I think it should 1- 2 hr for both replacements ($150).

I was thinking $1K just to cover parts and some labors which I not confident on doing myself. The $1K I budget is for a 2-3 month period. It’s like investing $300 a month to top condition my car. I ended the loan payments last month so I’m thinking it’s like a 3 month extension on the loan but with a lower monthly payment.

I will definitely follow the advice on the wires. Will test their resistance this weekend and compare it to the manual specs. Thanks "98CoupeV6"…

Also I will put my "drive belts" on schedule for my next maintenance. Thanks "e3NiNe"...

What kind of obvious symptoms should I look for on the ALT?

98CoupeV6

But the problem isn't with the EGR itself, it's with the ports. It's senseless to replace the valve if the system is functioning properly.

I spend about $500 a year (30-35k miles) on maintenance. Buy a Helms and do the work yourself, it's very simple if you take the time to do it. IACV and EGR are both pretty easy.

webie

I have the "Helms manual" or "Honda Service" don't know which one is, but is the big one with a silver cover.

I agree with you, and I always prefer to do it myself. I trust in me more than I trust the dealer; and also I learn on the process. But on my car the IACV is behind the TB which is located almost under the windshield, this makes almost impossible to remove the IACV without removing the TB. And the TB has so much attached to it that it scares me a little. Maybe is more easy that what I think, but for the looks I have done on it seams like though job.

98CoupeV6

The only real tricky part is the throttle and cuise cables, but with patience and a bit of effort they're not too bad. You know how much the Honda dealer charges, it'll be more than worth it once you get it done

b12uceHuy

How about
-valve adjustment
-flushing power steering
-thats all I can think of