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Old 11-14-2002, 06:25 PM
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tokyoracer
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Default what do i need to complete this?

i've read the post about Si sway bar vs. Type R bar. i've decided to just stick to the Si bar. my question is... since my 2000 ex already has a rear sway, do i need to buy all the other components such as the bracket, bushing, clamp, and endlinks for it? or can i just use my stock and just replace the sway bar with the Si? btw, how thick is the regular EX sway bars? i know the Si is 15mm, but what about the stock EX?

here is the break down of the parts pricing from www.parts.com

Si sway bar $64.08
bracket (2pcs) $17.88
bushing (2pcs) $6.46
clamp (2pcs) $7.66
endlink (2pcs) $86.22
total $182.30
Old 11-14-2002, 07:15 PM
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cant answer your question but that is more expensive then getting a bsq kit and all the ITR equipment
so for the same price why not go itr?
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Old 11-14-2002, 07:19 PM
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tokyoracer
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Originally posted by airon
cant answer your question but that is more expensive then getting a bsq kit and all the ITR equipment
so for the same price why not go itr?
well, i am just hoping that i can just use my stock parts. if so then i can just buy the Si sway instead. as for type R bars... i know they are beefy, but i heard some people still have their sways rip from the subframe even after using the beak kit.

as for aftermarket sways, i wanted comptech... but since i use a Greddy Evo exhaust... i fear it will have clearance problems. i am just hoping that someone on the board will have the same exhaust as mine and uses an aftermarket sway bar... so i can know if there is clearance or not.
Old 11-14-2002, 08:13 PM
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inspyral
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2000 EX does not have a stock rear swaybar. The Stock 99-00 Si rear swaybar is 13mm.
I don't know how the EVO piping is routed, but my Comptech clears my Tanabe RM:
Old 11-14-2002, 09:34 PM
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tokyoracer
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Originally posted by inspyral
2000 EX does not have a stock rear swaybar. The Stock 99-00 Si rear swaybar is 13mm.
I don't know how the EVO piping is routed, but my Comptech clears my Tanabe RM:
humm... i thought it did. well, i'll check it tomorrow in the day time. i'll also check up on the exhaust piping route too. thanks. damn i want those comptechs... so cost sooo much...
Old 11-14-2002, 10:19 PM
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what about SKUNK2 rear sway bars? are they beefy? anyone have it installed onto their civic? price wise is pretty good.. $169.00 at http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODASWB/

what do you think?
Old 11-15-2002, 02:56 PM
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Originally posted by tokyoracer
what about SKUNK2 rear sway bars? are they beefy? anyone have it installed onto their civic? price wise is pretty good.. $169.00 at http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/MODASWB/

what do you think?
I used to have the red 21mm Skunk bar:

I was happy with its performance until one day I started hearing these craking noises from my rear subframe while turning. I figured it was the endlinks or D-brackets coming loose, since that was common with the Skunk swaybars, but upon inspection I found those to be tight. I also checked to see if the bushings were still greased up well, and they were. Then I noticed some cracks in the the subframe around where the D-bracket holders bolted on. There were many instances of the previous version of the Skunk swaybar(back when it was still under the Z Speed name, and was smurf blue) tearing out 5g Civic and 3g Integra subframes, but I thought they had been dealt with. Obviously not, since my subframe was pretty jacked. It took over a year, but the subframe eventually gave out. The Skunk bar uses backing plates similar to the Beaks or BSQ reinforcement kits, but smaller, and it seems they weren't enough to keep the relatively thing Civic subframe from tearing out. After that happened, I sold off the Skunk bar, but kep tthe backing plates. I had a local welder repair my subframe and weld in 1/8" thick steel plate to shore it up. He guaranteed the steel plate would not tearout, and I believed him. His welds were quite nice and even, and I was completely satisfied with the job. I then put the Comptech setup on, but instead of just using the nuts and washers provided, I took the backing plates from my Skunk bar and used those. I've been running this setup for a year, with no problems whasoever. The combination of the Skunk backing plates, 1/8" steel plate, and the design of the Comptech tie bar resulted in a nearly indestructable subframe, and has worked flawlessly. Long story short, be prepared to deal with subframe tearout issues with the Skunk bar, unless you reinforce the subframe. If you can find Si endlinks for cheap, I would just go with the ITR setup and either a Beaks or BSQ reinforcement kit. Otherwise, welding in some steel plate is definitely a good idea.
Old 11-15-2002, 07:58 PM
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Originally posted by inspyral
2000 EX does not have a stock rear swaybar. The Stock 99-00 Si rear swaybar is 13mm.
I don't know how the EVO piping is routed, but my Comptech clears my Tanabe RM:
chris... ur right... but the good thing is... holes are predrilled.
here is what my setup looks like... it seem like the comptech will work fine. http://members17.clubphoto.com/rui65...ner-6e31.phtml

but i guess i should get the beak kit to install it huh? i've read ur post on it... and definitely i do not wish for it rip out my subframe.. so beak kit would work well right? also... what do you think about putting washers on both side on the bolt for the end link... perhaps that will make is stronger???
Old 11-15-2002, 08:08 PM
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Check hondaacuraworld.com, our sponsor, or post about getting the swaybar from them in their forum here..

This is a quote for a type-r sway bar in their forum:
The type R sway bar with busings, grommets, and 4 bolts is 72.78, shipping included my price.
So, I don't think that their price would be higher than your current quote.
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Old 11-15-2002, 08:30 PM
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Originally posted by 94civicEX
Check hondaacuraworld.com, our sponsor, or post about getting the swaybar from them in their forum here..

This is a quote for a type-r sway bar in their forum:


So, I don't think that their price would be higher than your current quote.
cool... i'll try that. thanks a lot. but don't i need to get a beak kit and do i need to replace my lca?



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