Car takes a bit to start when cold
04-22-2008, 08:58 AM
#1
The Comic Guy
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Car takes a bit to start when cold
My 96 DX takes a little too long to start when it's cold and I'm wondering if the oil I put in is too heavy or something. I put in Mobile 1 10w30 for high mileage and i think that is when the hard starting began (but my memory sucks). The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil filter, fluids within the past 1500 miles, all OEM. At first I thought the fuel filter was clogged, but that's not the case since I put a new one in. I just don't want my starter to burn out and make me buy a new one. Thanks for any input.
04-23-2008, 01:35 AM
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I'm running Mobil 1 high mileage in my '92 EX right now, thinnest they make is 10w30, but it's full synthetic, meaning in cold weather it shouldn't get as thick as regular 10w30, maybe not even reg. 5w30 (the first "cold" letter isn't measured in actual cold temps. though it does reflect cold weather performance to an extent)
I don't believe it's labeled as EC - energy conserving though, they said they didn't have it tested against those requirements, meaning it either puts up too much "resistance" or they had another reason to skip those tests.
When it was below 20 I noticed mine was turning over slower, but the difference, if any, between that and when I had regular 5w30 in there during similar temps is hard to judge.
M1 5w30 EP, even with added seal conditioner, went through it too fast, whereas with M1 high mileage 10w30 there's virtually no oil use, same as regular 5w30 w/ added conditioner.
It seems to remove deposits and sludge quite well, but I may try standard 10w30 synthetic w/ added conditioner next time, haven't decided. Standard M1 10w30 is actually a bit thinner than the high mileage, which apparently tends to be the case w/ all high mileage oils.
Chances are it's a fuel issue anyway, causing it to turn over more times before starting when cold.
I doubt thicker oil is having any affect as it doesn't have to turn over very fast at all in order to start, could be wrong though. Some people see an improvement in keeping the tank at least 3/4 full, and some think replacing the fuel cap can help. Just make sure you let the pump prime before starting, and if you think your filter may be seriously clogged you could give that a try.
I don't believe it's labeled as EC - energy conserving though, they said they didn't have it tested against those requirements, meaning it either puts up too much "resistance" or they had another reason to skip those tests.
When it was below 20 I noticed mine was turning over slower, but the difference, if any, between that and when I had regular 5w30 in there during similar temps is hard to judge.
M1 5w30 EP, even with added seal conditioner, went through it too fast, whereas with M1 high mileage 10w30 there's virtually no oil use, same as regular 5w30 w/ added conditioner.
It seems to remove deposits and sludge quite well, but I may try standard 10w30 synthetic w/ added conditioner next time, haven't decided. Standard M1 10w30 is actually a bit thinner than the high mileage, which apparently tends to be the case w/ all high mileage oils.
Chances are it's a fuel issue anyway, causing it to turn over more times before starting when cold.
I doubt thicker oil is having any affect as it doesn't have to turn over very fast at all in order to start, could be wrong though. Some people see an improvement in keeping the tank at least 3/4 full, and some think replacing the fuel cap can help. Just make sure you let the pump prime before starting, and if you think your filter may be seriously clogged you could give that a try.
04-23-2008, 08:09 AM
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The Comic Guy
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Thanks for the input. I'll put the oil change off until it's due. Since I already changed the fuel filter I guess I'll try the cap as my current one looks pretty ratty. Might be a good idea anyway since I have to get a smog next month. Thanks again.
04-23-2008, 09:34 AM
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You should use the correct 5W-30...
When you use heavier weight oils than are required by the manufacturer it reduces efficiency...
But I highly doubt it is the oil. I would suspect fuel pump...
In all my Hondas, if the fuel level goes low it will take longer for the engine to start as it does not have enough fuel pressure yet.
Try this, when starting the car, turn to the "on" position, until you hear the fuel pump prime itself, then start the car. In other words give the fuel pump a second or two so it can turn on and fill the fuel lines with pressure, before turning the motor over.
When you use heavier weight oils than are required by the manufacturer it reduces efficiency...
But I highly doubt it is the oil. I would suspect fuel pump...
In all my Hondas, if the fuel level goes low it will take longer for the engine to start as it does not have enough fuel pressure yet.
Try this, when starting the car, turn to the "on" position, until you hear the fuel pump prime itself, then start the car. In other words give the fuel pump a second or two so it can turn on and fill the fuel lines with pressure, before turning the motor over.
04-24-2008, 09:49 AM
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oh so its not just my civic tat is having the same problem. cuz wen im low on fuel it takes a lil longer to startup. so if i turn the key to the ON position for a couple sec and it will start up fine? wen the car is hard to start then i know its time to fill up lol
