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Just another import lover
What oil should I use?
Hey guys just wondering your thoughts on the best brand of oil to use for my B16B, or B-series in general, as well as weight/viscosity?
I have Castrol synthetic right now...I'm thinking about Royal purple
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98 ex coupe with:
98 JDM B16B
Type-r swap/LSD, Mugen B18C header, Carsound cat, Taylor wires, Iceman intake, 2.5 custom cat back exaust, short shifter, neuspeed springs/koni yellows, eibach camber kit, suspension tech sway bars, Brembo CD rotors, konig wheels blah blah >>>
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Future Jedi

Originally Posted by
alllooksnnogo
Hey guys just wondering your thoughts on the best brand of oil to use for my B16B, or B-series in general, as well as weight/viscosity?

I have Castrol synthetic right now...I'm thinking about Royal purple

I've always preferred quality, conventional "dino-juice" (e.g., Pennzoil) in the factory-recommended 5W-30.
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i use mobil 1 ful synthetic 15w-50 or somethin like that.
i really suck at driving a 5speed.
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Your Powder Coater
Royal Purple is good stuff but i'm a big fan of Mobile 1 Synthetic!!
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I've used mostly Royal Purple and Mobil 1 Full Synthetic... Not much difference in my opinion.. just whatever is cheaper for you
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I use Mobil 1 sythetic with Mobil 1 filter...
SPWC Member #00001

Originally Posted by
Tark
i would eat a donkey Vagina

Originally Posted by
e3NiNe
- while you're tagging her from behind ... eat a cheeseburger. Put extra onions on it and blow into her holes.
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Mobil 1 sythetic 5w30 all the way until it gets alot of miles on i tthen switch it to 10w30(or 40)
epoxy
--1998 Prelude SH with an array of mods FOR SALE.
--nissan 240sx silvia with goodies :-P
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Rotorphile.
Definately Mobil1 synthetic if your wallet can take it.
If not, some Castrol dino-oil is great too.
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mcc racing
i use mobile one....
that seems to be the norm here..
Originally posted by thaveen

dont worry about it, ive been owned by oc too
merritr [12:49 PM]: yeah it looks good
merritr [12:50 PM]: the blue lights are festive
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S2000 Pilot

Originally Posted by
vtecadil
i use mobil 1 ful synthetic 15w-50 or somethin like that.
wtf i'm pretty sure that's not the right viscosity for honda motors. Reccomended is 5W30 but i usually go with 10 in the summers.
-2000 Grand Prix White S2000-The daily driver
-2006 Canyon Red Lotus Elise- The weekend Toy
-2009 Pepper White Cooper S- The grocery hauler
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Castrol GTX 5W-30

Originally Posted by
oc_civic
i use mobile one....
that seems to be the norm here..
Catrol Gtx is better than synthetic in my opinion and it really is good stuff.
Sythetic Syntec is better than amsoil and mobilone and its the best synthetic you can buy.
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Originally Posted by
vtecadil
i use mobil 1 ful synthetic 15w-50 or somethin like that.
15w-50....dude...do you live on the equator?
SPWC Member #00001

Originally Posted by
Tark
i would eat a donkey Vagina

Originally Posted by
e3NiNe
- while you're tagging her from behind ... eat a cheeseburger. Put extra onions on it and blow into her holes.
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Registered User
Mobil-1 full synthetic 10W-30
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mcc racing

Originally Posted by
workman92
Catrol Gtx is better than synthetic in my opinion and it really is good stuff.
Sythetic Syntec is better than amsoil and mobilone and its the best synthetic you can buy.

all i can say is relax.. its JUST motor oil
Originally posted by thaveen

dont worry about it, ive been owned by oc too
merritr [12:49 PM]: yeah it looks good
merritr [12:50 PM]: the blue lights are festive
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GreenGhost
well,fellow,in my country,many people like me,owners of Honda Civic,use BP Visco5000 10w40 but this is a mediterrenean clime(40ºC in summer,0ºC min in winter).Mobil 1 is considerer the best but is a very expensive oil,the well with the money?well then it is your choiçe between this two,greetings from Portugal
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Registered User
what you guys think is best weight for a d series (/w 60k miles)? right now im running mobil1 10w-30 synthetic with a K&N Filter in a climate which never realy gets more than 10 above or below 75 (f)......
which leads to question numero 2what you guys think about a K&N oil filter? im easily persuaded by commercials... so i decided to use em...... better than mobil?
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Just another import lover
so most would agree on 10w30??
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_18.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_25.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_30.jpg
98 ex coupe with:
98 JDM B16B
Type-r swap/LSD, Mugen B18C header, Carsound cat, Taylor wires, Iceman intake, 2.5 custom cat back exaust, short shifter, neuspeed springs/koni yellows, eibach camber kit, suspension tech sway bars, Brembo CD rotors, konig wheels blah blah >>>
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Rotorphile.

Originally Posted by
D14A2
well,fellow,in my country,many people like me,owners of Honda Civic,use BP Visco5000 10w40
10W40 is too thick to use in a Honda I4 in most areas, including yours. I won't get into the downsides of 10W40 in general, either, just try to stick with a 10W30 oil.

Originally Posted by
alllooksnnogo
so most would agree on 10w30??

Yes.

Originally Posted by
ReVenGe
what you guys think is best weight for a d series (/w 60k miles)? right now im running mobil1 10w-30 synthetic with a K&N Filter
Mobil1 synthetic is a great oil for all piston engines, as for K&N oil filters... I didn't even know they made oil filters. I use Mobil1 filters because they have an excellent reputation and are significantly larger then the OEM filter for my car.
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Mobil 1 5W30 is what I like.
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Hybrid Forum Moderator
I use Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic, haven't had a problem with it. I was using OE Honda filters but then they give me this rediculously small filter and told me they changed the design so I went back to using Purelator Pure 1 filters.
K&N makes filters and they're nice because there's a 1" nut welded on the bottom of them which makes removing the damn thing a breeze (especially on a Honda) but they're also like $10 a filter. I just use my oil filter pilers and yank the sucker off the old fashioned way.
Andy - Reinstated
Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
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Just another import lover
cool, I just bought some mobile 1 10W30.....we shall see
It gets some good reviews and it was cheap so I thought I'd try it out.
I got a Frame filter DG to go along with it. What do you guys think about the frame filters??
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_18.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_25.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../308665_30.jpg
98 ex coupe with:
98 JDM B16B
Type-r swap/LSD, Mugen B18C header, Carsound cat, Taylor wires, Iceman intake, 2.5 custom cat back exaust, short shifter, neuspeed springs/koni yellows, eibach camber kit, suspension tech sway bars, Brembo CD rotors, konig wheels blah blah >>>
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Black Pearl
Honda put Kendall in my car the day it came off the line, it will continue to have Kendall in it until the engine blows.
When they took the valve cover off to adjust the valves, they said they had never seen such a clean engine internally. It must be doing something good. The car has 140,000 miles on it and still runs like new. Some days I think it runs better than it did six years ago. I would consider Mobil 1 because it is much easier to obtain from Walmart and other stores. Honda now puts Mobil 1 in all the new cars I believe, at least that what my dealer does.
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Black Pearl

Originally Posted by
alllooksnnogo
cool, I just bought some mobile 1 10W30.....we shall see

It gets some good reviews and it was cheap so I thought I'd try it out.
I got a Frame filter DG to go along with it. What do you guys think about the frame filters??

I hate Fram. I will never put one on my car. I had to rebuild an engine because the oil filter failed. It was a Fram. I've heard to many simular stories about failed Fram filters (say that five times fast) and Fram not backing their product. I use Wix or Napa Silver/Gold filters, sometimes Purolator.
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Rotorphile.

Originally Posted by
Hondaman
Honda put Kendall in my car the day it came off the line, it will continue to have Kendall in it until the engine blows.
Kendall... oil? Never heard of it.
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it's my D in a B
my honda FSM recommends 5w30 for any conditions for all d-series (10w30 being OK in hot climates). I just use the cheap shit and a honda filter
'92 Civic VX B20 autocross rig: sold for scrap
'85 FJ60 Land Cruiser: OME lift and some wicked rust
'05 SAABaru 9-2x Aero: stock, daily grind
'08 Never Summer Heritage: 158, Flow NXT FR, winter sled
www.eosmotorsports.com
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^^That's Me!^^

Originally Posted by
alllooksnnogo
I got a Frame filter DG to go along with it. What do you guys think about the frame filters??

Here are some articles I read and pasted here regarding the Fram Tough Guard oil filter. Hopefully this helps.
Fram Tough Guard TG8A
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there.
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Fram Tough Guard TG8A
This filter has an improved filter element with more surface area (248 sqin), a heavy silicone anti-drainback valve with a good sealing surface, the same plastic pressure relief valve but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. In my opinion, the only real drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
The telltale signs for a Fram Tough Guard filter are: It has a better backplate that is usually shiny, with six larger holes for the inlet and 6 spot welds around the them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. When you look through the inlet holes, you can see the orange anti-drainback valve. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
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Guy posted this one---If you have some extra money and time go buy a Fram filter from a first rate parts store, and the same number filter from a discount parts store, and then just for giggles another one from K Mart. Now take them home and cut them open and see what you find, remember they are all the same number right? Now when you discover that you have three different filters with the identical number remember that Wix and Baldwin will not make a 99 cent filter just for K Marts big weekend sale.
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Comments:
The Fram filter appears well-made in terms of actual build quality (uniform pleat seperation, consistent glue, etc.). Contrary to The Mini-Mopar site evaluation, neither of the two Fram filters tested here had the "assembly" strings around the filter element, possibly a recent improvement made by Fram. There is a clear indentation where this string was (I presume it was removed prior to final assembly). The filter element is somewhat "fuzzier" than any of the Bosch, STP, or M1 units, though not as much as the Honda (US-made) media. I'm not sure how much this might deteriorate over time. The poor sealing of the plastic bypass would likely result in some continual bypass, and after only a few minutes of playing with the valve I was able to get it to stick open. This bypass design would appear to be very poor. My primary concern with this filter are the cardboard end caps- I would be suspicious that the cardboard would deteriorate over time and may come loose, especially considering that the cardboard is in the way (partially) of the oil flow. I would be particularly concerned about this in a racing environment where higher pressures are common.
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There is this site I can't find but I have read about fram filters on it and its scary. Especially how it filters it with merely card board paper and what not. After reading atricles like this I switched to STP. Still making sure that was a good decision....
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it's my D in a B
yeah, i think that writeup was on some prelude board... I don't remember the url either.
'92 Civic VX B20 autocross rig: sold for scrap
'85 FJ60 Land Cruiser: OME lift and some wicked rust
'05 SAABaru 9-2x Aero: stock, daily grind
'08 Never Summer Heritage: 158, Flow NXT FR, winter sled
www.eosmotorsports.com
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^^That's Me!^^
Heres one more post on the tough huard filter....
Comments:
This filter looks identical in construction to it's cheaper brother. The only apparent differences are the filter media (different color, twice as thick, and more densely packeed) and a "screen" over the bypass valve. The intention (according to Fram) of the screen is that if the filter becomes clogged the screen will help keep out debris. My only comments on this are 1) if you have debris big enough for the screen to catch, it's probably pieces of the filter coming apart or you have much bigger problems(!), and 2) if the screen becomes clogged (see #1) then you're going to lose flow and probably damage the engine *because* of the filter. Also, this valve is of the same design as the "Extra Gaurd" above, with the same flaws. This filter would logically provide better filtering due to increased thickness and surface area, though the thicker material may only result in more leakage through the poor sealing of the bypass valve.
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^^That's Me!^^
Eeeevil....evil FRAM!
DAMN...now heres a read for you!!! Very descriptive with pics and stuff to. This will make everyone stay away from FRAM.
http://bbs.pcstats.com/tweak3d/messa...threadid=70166
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not OG but Old School
Fram is crap use WIX filters, Napa filters are made by WIX.
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Honda-Acura
Honda S2000
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